Low Salt Chlorine Generator VS Normal

[Homerraas]

High all,

Are there any advantages/disadvantages to running a low salt system? Is the output the same? There is not much info out there to compare.

The low salt works at 1500 ppm the normal versions 3000 ppm.
Out pump has a 4000/0.40% ppm salt limit (Pentair Intellifo) here in Europe (is this BS?)

Thanks for the input

Edwin

 

[Mdragger88]

Not sure exactly which swcg you’re referring to (please share which one you’re looking at)
but I do know that for example when using the low salt mode that Hayward offers on some models (it works with multiple salt levels) your output is reduced to half the normal output the cell would have if normal salt levels were used.

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

I have not heard if this intelliflo pump salt limit. Can you share the pump model number or the manual where it states this?

 

[Homerraas]

I know this is a US based site so some models may be "unknown or relabeled"

Low salt system I was looking at is Davey Ecosalt2 DES2-25-EL

Has the same output (25 grams) as the "normal" version
The low salt version has a bigger cell.

The pumps from Pentair in Europe are all marked as 4ppm salt resistant.
Intelliflow Whisperflo VSF (in US-> IntelliFlo VSF)

As from there website : IntelliFlo WhisperFlo VSF | Pentair Pool Europe

• Salt resistance → 0.40% (4 g/l)

 

[Mdragger88]

4 gram/liter = 4004.569212 parts/million (ppm) not 4ppm
So There’s no issue with using normal salt levels.

It looks like those “low salt” models cost quite a bit more than their regular salt counterparts.
There’s also a 35g/hr option in the regular version which is still cheaper than the 25g/hr low salt version.
I would be inclined to go with the 35g/hr regular one if this is the only brand that’s available to you.
If available you might also inquire about a pentair ic60 unit since you have an intelliflo. Not sure of the cost differences between them.
Or if you have or plan to have automation?

For reference-
Here’s what these options look like fc wise in your pool in 24 hours @100%.
I had to do some conversions from grams per hour to pounds per day

The less you need to run your swcg to adequately chlorinate your pool the longer your cell will last in people years so the larger the cell the better.
Not sure what the advertised lifespan is for the models you’re looking at but for the pentair ic cells its approximately 8-10k hours if run at 100%
This equates to 16-20k hours if run at 50% & so on.

 

[Homerraas]

Thanks for the reply.

The IC40 (largest one sold in Europe) is almost 2times the price of the Ecosalt.

All systems will be done/used manually, there is no wifi/internet at the house (and for the kids we want to keep it that way )

If I boost up the CYA level (what is advised here) the cell won't be working that hard as 9 months of the year it will have the pool cover on it.

The pool is about 22k gallons, the 25EL is rated up the 125m2~33k gallons, it can if needed produce 25 grams per hour = 1.32 pounds per day

The 25 low salt and normal 35 have the same cell (size)

Question remains, any benefit running a low salt version eg having less salt in the water?

 

[ajw22]

Question remains, any benefit running a low salt version eg having less salt in the water?

No.

Some governments have restricted salt levels due to environmental beliefs.

There is no benefit to the pool owner or swimmers.

 

[Homerraas]

No.

Some governments have restricted salt levels due to environmental beliefs.

There is no benefit to the pool owner or swimmers.

That is plain and simple

Lower salt is less chlorine production with the same cell size? is that a good assumption?

 

[ajw22]

Lower salt is less chlorine production with the same cell size? is that a good assumption?

Yes, although you should look at the manufacturers specifications for the chlorine output.

Manufacturers can do a bit with the electronics to push chlorine output at the expense of cell life.

 

[Homerraas]

Yes, although you should look at the manufacturers specifications for the chlorine output.

Manufacturers can do a bit with the electronics to push chlorine output at the expense of cell li

The pool is about 22k gallons, the 25EL is rated up the 125m2~33k gallons, it can if needed produce 25 grams per hour = 1.32 pounds per day the climate is mild and the pool is used about 6 weeks a year, the rest of the time it's covered

 

[Mdragger88]

You could get away with the 25 g/hr one in your situation or spring for the 35 g/hr if its in your budget - your $/ your choice
Bigger is usually better in our experience for longevity purposes as I described above. But with it being mostly covered the daily fc consumption is often greatly reduced. The average daily fc loss of a residential pool can be anywhere from 1-5ppm/day. So you want to be sure you can easily produce that without having to keep the swcg going full blast 24/7
Certainly no need to go with the $$$ expensive low salt version-
Use your savings to purchase a great test kit that includes a salt test.
You need to test your salt levels before adding any as all manually added forms of chlorine add salt to the water - you may be surprised by how much you already have.
Test Kits Compared
Options for outside the United States Here
*Before pulling the trigger you may want to inquire about their cell’s lifespan rating so you know where you stand & are comparing apples to apples.
Some generic cells can have a very low 3-5k hr rating which is why they are lower in price.

 

[Homerraas]

You could get away with the 25 g/hr one in your situation or spring for the 35 g/hr if its in your budget - your $/ your choice
Bigger is usually better in our experience for longevity purposes as I described above. But with it being mostly covered the daily fc consumption is often greatly reduced. The average daily fc loss of a residential pool can be anywhere from 1-5ppm/day. So you want to be sure you can easily produce that without having to keep the swcg going full blast 24/7
Certainly no need to go with the $$$ expensive low salt version-
Use your savings to purchase a great test kit that includes a salt test.
You need to test your salt levels before adding any as all manually added forms of chlorine add salt to the water - you may be surprised by how much you already have.
Test Kits Compared
Options for outside the United States Here
*Before pulling the trigger you may want to inquire about their cell’s lifespan rating so you know where you stand & are comparing apples to apples.
Some generic cells can have a very low 3-5k hr rating which is why they are lower in price.

Yes I have a testkit on the way from the USA (twice the price due to shipping)

The low salt 25g and normal 35g are the same price, have the same cell. No mention of lifespan hours in the documentation.
(both at the $1200 mark)

 

[Mdragger88]

Yes I have a testkit on the way from the USA (twice the price due to shipping)

Glad to hear- sorry about the expense though!

The low salt 25g and normal 35g are the same price, have the same cell. No mention of lifespan hours in the documentation.
(both at the $1200 mark)

the particular vendor I landed on when searching the units for information had a higher price for the 25g low salt than all the rest but either way you want more chlorine for your $$ so the 35g regular is the way to go if you can afford it.
Otherwise go with the 25g regular. There’s really no reason to pay more for the low salt version.

 

[Homerraas]

Ordered the 35g version $1300 it has flow control and temperature so when we are not there nothing should go wrong if the flow drops of the temp gets below 14c.

 

[AUSpool]

That is plain and simple

Lower salt is less chlorine production with the same cell size? is that a good assumption?

These low salt chlorinators produce the same FC output from a lower salt solution. To do that the cells need to be more robust and cost a fare bit more. And then the replacement cell will cost more when needed. We have several manufacturers producing these in Australia. The idea is that at the lower salt level the salt can’t be tasted and the manufacturers start to call them a fresh water system. Smoke and mirrors on the manufacturers behalf who don’t want the loose market share so they all get in on the act along with the regular range.

 

[DavidArmenB]

No benefit whatsoever in running “low salt.” The regular 3000ppm concentration required for a regular pool is already only one tenth of ocean concentrations and most people cannot even taste 3000ppm salt concentrations. Also, some claim benefits to having salt in the pool and a smoother feeling to the skin; in this scenario, the more the better. Go with the regular version that required normal concentrations of roughly 2700-3400ppm.