Jandy ePump and an older Aqualink PDA 5.0

[Slarti]

When you get a chance, consider adding the description of your setup to your Signature, which will aid the experts to quickly tailor responses to your pool and equipment, and you won't need to repeat it in future posts.

If this is a single speed pump, check the capacitor first. They can fail over time.

Great idea on the signature, will do so when I get the chance.

It's a Starite SuperMax 1/2 HP Pump. When I opened the capacitor cover, there is a thin layer of oil on it and under it. I am assuming this is bad (google backed me on this).

I am going to remove power to the pump and still run my pool. Just no waterfall until I get the capacitor changed.

 

[PoolGate]

You can test the capacitor too. Good luck!

 

[HermanTX]

Great idea on the signature, will do so when I get the chance.

It's a Starite SuperMax 1/2 HP Pump. When I opened the capacitor cover, there is a thin layer of oil on it and under it. I am assuming this is bad (google backed me on this).

I am going to remove power to the pump and still run my pool. Just no waterfall until I get the capacitor changed.

Maybe good time to purchase another 240V 20 amp circuit breaker and dedicate a CB for each pump.

 

[Slarti]

Maybe good time to purchase another 240V 20 amp circuit breaker and dedicate a CB for each pump.

You're probably right. I will need to figure out the wiring. Since they are in series, I am not sure what I would need to change to get them to come on at the same time.

 

[PoolGate]

You're probably right. I will need to figure out the wiring. Since they are in series, I am not sure what I would need to change to get them to come on at the same time.

Why do you want them to come on at the same time? Usually a feature pump would have its own buttons within Aqualink. As long as you have an unused AUX port, you can set this up as another on-demand feature.

 

[Slarti]

Why do you want them to come on at the same time? Usually a feature pump would have its own buttons within Aqualink. As long as you have an unused AUX port, you can set this up as another on-demand feature.

Without the overflow pump, the waterfall is not on. I guess it's just the way we've always had it and we prefer it that way. It's also an easy way to see that the pool is running as intended when the waterfall is on... it's what I saw today.

On the other hand. Capacitor does not charge and looks rather bleak.

 

[PoolGate]

Without the overflow pump, the waterfall is not on. I guess it's just the way we've always had it and we prefer it that way. It's also an easy way to see that the pool is running as intended when the waterfall is on... it's what I saw today.

On the other hand. Capacitor does not charge and looks rather bleak.

Just FYI pumps use a lot of power. Running waterfalls also increase pH.

 

[HermanTX]

The top left relay.... the top two wires go to the back of the board (spare aux)? Line 1 goes to Line 1 on the bottom left. Line 2 goes to line 2 on the bottom left. Load 1 and Load 2 go directly to the overflow pump.

The bottom left relay... the top two wires go to the "filter pump" on the front of the board. Line 1 and line 2 go to the CB. Load 1 and 2 go to the main pump (eventually... they detour through the surge protector).

The above is what you stated earlier as to how each pump receives power. How they receive power does not dictate if they turn on. It is the relay that decides if incoming power is applied to the device wired to the Load 1 and 2 side.

The recommendation is install a new CB. That CB gets power from the main source. Wire that CB directly to the top left relay as Line 1 & 2. So instead of the top left relay getting power from a jumper (from the bottom left relay), it will get power directly from the CB. Therefore each has its own CB and power into the relay.

How and when each pump is turn on is controlled by the schedule you have set for each.

 

[Slarti]

The above is what you stated earlier as to how each pump receives power. How they receive power does not dictate if they turn on. It is the relay that decides if incoming power is applied to the device wired to the Load 1 and 2 side.

The recommendation is install a new CB. That CB gets power from the main source. Wire that CB directly to the top left relay as Line 1 & 2. So instead of the top left relay getting power from a jumper (from the bottom left relay), it will get power directly from the CB. Therefore each has its own CB and power into the relay.

How and when each pump is turn on is controlled by the schedule you have set for each.

OK, that makes sense. The way it works now is both pumps turn on at the same time. I would have to change the dual breaker to two breakers and just feed the overflow pump from the breaker vs. the load as it is now.

The new capacitor worked. Best $15 I've spent.

 

[HermanTX]

OK, that makes sense. The way it works now is both pumps turn on at the same time. I would have to change the dual breaker to two breakers and just feed the overflow pump from the breaker vs. the load as it is now.

What your picture shows is a single 240v GFCI 20 amp breaker (this is powering both pumps via the jumper from one relay to another), a single 120V GFCI 20amp breaker for your lights, and a single 120V 20 amp breaker for your automation

You simply need to purchase another 240V GFCI 20 amp breaker and hook it up in the panel, then run power directly from it to the other pump relay once you remove the jumper wires.

Your automation schedule is what controls when each pump turns on. The automation tells the relay to close which supplies power from the line side to the load side.

 

[Slarti]

View attachment 510303

What your picture shows is a single 240v GFCI 20 amp breaker (this is powering both pumps via the jumper from one relay to another), a single 120V GFCI 20amp breaker for your lights, and a single 120V 20 amp breaker for your automation

You simply need to purchase another 240V GFCI 20 amp breaker and hook it up in the panel, then run power directly from it to the other pump relay once you remove the jumper wires.

Your automation schedule is what controls when each pump turns on. The automation tells the relay to close which supplies power from the line side to the load side.

Well heck, learn something new every day. I thought the 240 was 20+20 amps... Not sure why I thought that, but it was stuck in my head. I had to go to my main house breaker and check my CBs for my garage 220... they are 30 amp, but are built the same.

In that case, easy change.

Again, thanks all.