Jandy ePump and an older Aqualink PDA 5.0

[PoolGate]

Sorry all, still getting used to this forum and I missed a few posts...

HermanTX: Thanks, this is where I was struggling. Tell me which wires go where and I am good, lol.

Here are pics of my system:

These are your relays. One of these, probably the top left, goes to your pump. Do you know which one for sure? The two wires coming out of the top of the relay and into the panel above (you can remove that one too) go to that other pic we posted above.

Do you have 2 pumps? Looking at this it the top left relay and the relay below that are wired together. It could be the SWG though as those are usually wired together.

 

[PoolGate]

Here is a pic with both top and bottom panels removed. The two wire sockets on the left side just above the relays are where the relays plug into. On the top of those white sockets are what each is wired to within Aqualink. The first one is the filter pump.

 

[PoolGate]

In addition, you should have a section in Aqualink to tell it you have a pump. Here is the below from my RS system but you should have a similar section within your PDA programming.

 

[HermanTX]

Sorry all, still getting used to this forum and I missed a few posts...

HermanTX: Thanks, this is where I was struggling. Tell me which wires go where and I am good, lol.

Here are pics of my system:

I can see a black and red wire coming from the 220V Circuit Breaker (CB), Ensure that is going to the TOP LEFT Relay. There are 4 slots on the Relay - Line 1, Load 1, Line 2 and Load 2. See photo. Have the wires from the CB go to Line 1 and Line 2. Then run your VS Pump to the same Line 1 and Line 2 to enable the pump to have constant power. Then your automation will control the relay to turn on or off.
The 4 wire RS 485 cable will control the schedule, speeds etc of the VS pump. If you have a SWCG then those wires would connect to Load 1 and Load 2 and only function based on the relay status.

 

[Slarti]

I have 2 pumps... a main and a overflow pump for a waterfall. My pool switches between main and spa mode.

What is SWG?

I do not have aqualink. I am running an older PDA system. I can not get into the PDA at all... it just says "connecting."

I have added a few pics that are a little more clear. There's a lot of caps and splits, so I followed each to verify.

The top left relay.... the top two wires go to the back of the board (spare aux)? Line 1 goes to Line 1 on the bottom left. Line 2 goes to line 2 on the bottom left. Load 1 and Load 2 go directly to the overflow pump.

The bottom left relay... the top two wires go to the "filter pump" on the front of the board. Line 1 and line 2 go to the CB. Load 1 and 2 go to the main pump (eventually... they detour through the surge protector).

 

[PoolGate]

I do not have aqualink. I am running an older PDA system. I can not get into the PDA at all... it just says "connecting."

You do have Aqualink (the PDA version). This is likely your problem (can't get into the PDA). Your Aqualink is never initializing. Power every off and try removing that 4 wire connection you made to the pump and see if your PDA comes online again. We can take it from there if so.

 

[Slarti]

You do have Aqualink (the PDA version). This is likely your problem (can't get into the PDA). Your Aqualink is never initializing. Power every off and try removing that 4 wire connection you made to the pump and see if your PDA comes online again. We can take it from there if so.

You're right... My mind was thinking iAqualink.

Even after removing the RS 485, it does the same thing. The weird thing is that it's not powering up the panel... just the LCD. Usually when I turn the system CB to on, it lights up.

PDA and display show "connecting" and "waiting." I wonder if I somehow loosened something when I changed out pumps... although I can't see how as I only added the RS 485 to the multiplex board.

 

[PoolGate]

You're right... My mind was thinking iAqualink.

Even after removing the RS 485, it does the same thing. The weird thing is that it's not powering up the panel... just the LCD. Usually when I turn the system CB to on, it lights up.

PDA and display show "connecting" and "waiting." I wonder if I somehow loosened something when I changed out pumps... although I can't see how as I only added the RS 485 to the multiplex board.

Re-check all 4-wire connections and make sure they are tightly connected. Especially the one going to the multiplex board.

Which LCD are you talking about? Can you post a pic of that?

 

[Slarti]

Re-check all 4-wire connections and make sure they are tightly connected. Especially the one going to the multiplex board.

Which LCD are you talking about? Can you post a pic of that?

OK, went back in, re-connected all the 4 wire fittings. Now I have power to the main board. Pictured here... (and this is the LCD I was referring to)... The overflow pump turned on, but not the main.

Now I can get to the VAR pump settings in the PDA.

However, is my wiring correct? I haven't changed anything.

 

[PoolGate]

OK, went back in, re-connected all the 4 wire fittings. Now I have power to the main board. Pictured here... (and this is the LCD I was referring to)... The overflow pump turned on, but not the main.

Now I can get to the VAR pump settings in the PDA.

However, is my wiring correct? I haven't changed anything.

Ah ok - You have a SWG, or saltwater chlorine generator. That is the LCD screen. I referenced that above. I think the issue was the 4-wire connection was not a good connection. That will cause Aqualink to not initialize properly. And the VSP pump is not going to start unless the control 4-wire cable is attached correctly at both ends. Can you show a pic of the multiplexor? If you were doubling up the wire for the VSP in the multiplexor, try using a different connection than you used before. Are you able to trace back from the VSP pump and determine which of your 8 relays it connects to? Also make sure that the 4-wire connection is correctly attached at the pump end.

 

[Slarti]

Wow, once I set it to epump, it started!

I think I need to review all the settings as I have no idea what RPM is "standard." I am used to the single speed pumps.

 

[Slarti]

Ah ok - You have a SWG, or saltwater chlorine generator. That is the LCD screen. I referenced that above. I think the issue was the 4-wire connection was not a good connection. That will cause Aqualink to not initialize properly. And the VSP pump is not going to start unless the control 4-wire cable is attached correctly at both ends. Can you show a pic of the multiplexor? If you were doubling up the wire for the VSP in the multiplexor, try using a different connection than you used before. Are you able to trace back from the VSP pump and determine which of your 8 relays it connects to? Also make sure that the 4-wire connection is correctly attached at the pump end.

I think I am good there now. I assumed locked in to the quick connect was good enough. I ended up twisting the two together that were sharing and that seemed to fix it.... again, it could have been on the side of the bolt and not making valid contact.

Doesn't help that the wires are tiny and I can't see well, lol.

 

[PoolGate]

Wow, once I set it to epump, it started!

I think I need to review all the settings as I have no idea what RPM is "standard." I am used to the single speed pumps.

Yayy! Here are my settings.......

 

[Slarti]

Yayy! Here are my settings.......

View attachment 507971

Yeah, I definitely need to read up on that.

So it looks like my issue was a loose wire. Thank you all for all the help. I owe this forum big time as my local pool guy loves to fleece.

On another note, I am probably due for an upgrade... the iAquaLink looks user friendly... is it just interface? Or do you get enhanced features? I will search these forums to see what I can find.

 

[HermanTX]

Yeah, I definitely need to read up on that.

So it looks like my issue was a loose wire. Thank you all for all the help. I owe this forum big time as my local pool guy loves to fleece.

On another note, I am probably due for an upgrade... the iAquaLink looks user friendly... is it just interface? Or do you get enhanced features? I will search these forums to see what I can find.

Glad it worked out. The iAqualink makes it easier to set schedules and more flexibility if you are away from home. You would need the iQ30-RS package which is a new PCB with T.2 firmware revision. It also comes with the 3.0 Antenna which connects to your wifi and suitable for mesh wifi systems. This is what I upgraded to from my PDA system. You can access the system via phone app or directly via computer login.

On another note - I noticed you said that Line 1 & 2 on the top left relay are jumped from the Line 1 & 2 from the bottom left relay. That tells me you have 1 circuit breaker controlling both pumps. Ideally you want each pump on its own CB. So if you need to troubleshoot a specific pump you may need to disconnect that jumper. For future use. You have room to easily add another 220V 20amp CB.

 

[Slarti]

Glad it worked out. The iAqualink makes it easier to set schedules and more flexibility if you are away from home. You would need the iQ30-RS package which is a new PCB with T.2 firmware revision. It also comes with the 3.0 Antenna which connects to your wifi and suitable for mesh wifi systems. This is what I upgraded to from my PDA system. You can access the system via phone app or directly via computer login.

On another note - I noticed you said that Line 1 & 2 on the top left relay are jumped from the Line 1 & 2 from the bottom left relay. That tells me you have 1 circuit breaker controlling both pumps. Ideally you want each pump on its own CB. So if you need to troubleshoot a specific pump you may need to disconnect that jumper. For future use. You have room to easily add another 220V 20amp CB.

Yes, they are one breaker, but it's a dual 20 amp. Not sure why the PB did it that way, but it's always been good.

 

[mknauss]

I owe this forum big time as my local pool guy loves to fleece.

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[PoolGate]

Yes, they are one breaker, but it's a dual 20 amp. Not sure why the PB did it that way, but it's always been good.

I would be more concerned with the amps for those relays. They are rated for 1 3HP 220 volt pump. You should do some research if it is safe to run 2 pumps in that series setup. You do have extra relays that are not in use so you could move one of the pumps to its own relay. I would also separate out the breaker and add a breaker for the 2nd pump.

 

[Slarti]

Well, now that you mentioned it, my 2nd pump stopped working today. However, it was working fine for the past week. The motor casing is hot to the touch and will not come on. The main pump (ePump) is working fine.

After resetting the breaker, the 2nd pump will not turn on. There's a click at the breaker, but the breaker is not thrown. It's only 4 years old. My first one lasted 9 years.

I do not think this would be an issue of amperage as, again, it has worked this way for the past 13 years.

Anyone know a good way to test the pump?

 

[HermanTX]

When you get a chance, consider adding the description of your setup to your Signature, which will aid the experts to quickly tailor responses to your pool and equipment, and you won't need to repeat it in future posts.

If this is a single speed pump, check the capacitor first. They can fail over time.