Jandy Aqualink RS6 > Upgrade / Lights

Jun 28, 2014
41
Southern California
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hello,

I moved into a house about 6 months ago with a pool that was installed around 2006. I have been learning a ton about it mostly from this forum. The lights stopped working right when I moved in which were fiberstars 6004 fiber optic tower/color wheel. I have one light in the pool, one in the spa, and a strip under 2 waterfalls. I am looking at switching these over to LED (nichless) which seems fairly straightforward. While doing that I was debating upgrading the automation/control board so I can control it from my phone. I currently have an Aqualink RS-6 with a "one touch" panel inside the house. When I go into that panel and go to system setup diagnostics it tells me I have an RS-6 8157 REV K. Can someone tell me what I would need to upgrade this board or what I can add to it to control it from my phone? Does it make sense to switch to a different board/manufacturer since I am shopping for lights at the moment? Currently I only have a 2 speed pump but possibly looking at a VS speed next year.

One more question, my pressure side (return) I think it's called pressure side has a valve to go left spa or right pool which is simple enough. I also have this other pipe that comes off both sides with a valve in the middle. Why do I have this? Is this some sort of safety/pressure configuration so if one side has an issue it will go on the other side? My spa always has a small amount of water coming off the spillway even when in pool mode and I suspect this is why. I added a few pics of this pipe it's the one with blue lines on it. The red valve is basically stuck open and can't be turned.
 

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The small line with the red valve is your make up line to keep some water going to the spa all the time. If you upgrade your Aqualink board, you should be able to schedule a Spillover function for the valve that is actuated between pool and spa and eliminate the small line. The red valve being stuck is not unusual, those valves should never be used. They fail after a year or so.
 
Hello,

I moved into a house about 6 months ago with a pool that was installed around 2006. I have been learning a ton about it mostly from this forum. The lights stopped working right when I moved in which were fiberstars 6004 fiber optic tower/color wheel. I have one light in the pool, one in the spa, and a strip under 2 waterfalls. I am looking at switching these over to LED (nichless) which seems fairly straightforward. While doing that I was debating upgrading the automation/control board so I can control it from my phone. I currently have an Aqualink RS-6 with a "one touch" panel inside the house. When I go into that panel and go to system setup diagnostics it tells me I have an RS-6 8157 REV K. Can someone tell me what I would need to upgrade this board or what I can add to it to control it from my phone?

You need the iAqualink IQ-30RS upgrade kit which will upgrade your main board and firmware and have a WiFi antennae.

Does it make sense to switch to a different board/manufacturer since I am shopping for lights at the moment?

Probably not but if you wanted to change from Jany equipment to Pentair now would be the time to start. A Pentair IntelliCenter can replace your Aqualink. It will cost more then the IQ-30RS upgrade.

Currently I only have a 2 speed pump but possibly looking at a VS speed next year.

A Jandy VS pump will not work well with your REV K system so you nee the upgrade for that.

One more question, my pressure side (return) I think it's called pressure side has a valve to go left spa or right pool which is simple enough. I also have this other pipe that comes off both sides with a valve in the middle. Why do I have this? Is this some sort of safety/pressure configuration so if one side has an issue it will go on the other side? My spa always has a small amount of water coming off the spillway even when in pool mode and I suspect this is why. I added a few pics of this pipe it's the one with blue lines on it. The red valve is basically stuck open and can't be turned.

You need to fix the red valve to be able to shut it off and then enable Spillover function with dip switch #3 on the main panel. When switch #3 is on then AUX3 becomes the spillover control. If you have any relay connected to AUX3 you need to move it to an available Aux position.

With Spillover turned on by Aux3 the POOL/SPA return valve will move to the SPA position. Water will be suctioned by the pool and returned to the spa.

Your current board can do that.
 
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The small line with the red valve is your make up line to keep some water going to the spa all the time. If you upgrade your Aqualink board, you should be able to schedule a Spillover function for the valve that is actuated between pool and spa and eliminate the small line. The red valve being stuck is not unusual, those valves should never be used. They fail after a year or so.
Wonderful thank you for that information that makes sense. One more question, I have a small pump for 2 waterfalls and a valve that is only opened about 1/2 way maybe less and also stuck. Do you think that was done as the waterfall cannot handle the full pressure of the pump?
 
Do you think that was done as the waterfall cannot handle the full pressure of the pump?
Most pool builders use pool pumps for waterfalls. And thus, they have to restrict the flow to the waterfall to prevent pump run out or cavitation. There are proper waterfall pumps that should be used for that service.
 
One more question on here.. Any clue where I can buy Jandy 24w LED nichless lights online? Everywhere I look says "in store only" or a comparable light for a large pool as I only have a spot for 1 nichless led?
 
One more question on here.. Any clue where I can buy Jandy 24w LED nichless lights online? Everywhere I look says "in store only" or a comparable light for a large pool as I only have a spot for 1 nichless led?



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