Is there a magic trick that would enable you to remove and repair a jet pump without having to drain the tub?

DangerBoy

Well-known member
Oct 4, 2018
167
Calgary/Alberta
I filled my nearly 30 year old 1995 Hot Springs Grandee late this year. Got it filled just before the freezing weather hit. I've had it running for maybe a week now and I've noticed the wet ends of both jet pumps are leaking out the back (I suspect bearing seals have worn out). On one of the pumps that doesn't surprise me because I think that pump is original or at least has been in there since before I bought the tub second hand. The leak on that pump, however, is pretty slow.

I am, however, surprised that the second pump wet end is leaking as I replaced that wet end with a brand new one when I got the tub about 4 or 5 years ago. The motor is new as well but that has nothing to do with the leak. The problem is, the water is leaking faster from that wet end and I'm having to add water to the tub maybe every 4 or 5 days. That's going to be difficult during the winter which has just started to set in. First snowfall of the season today.

Now that it's below freezing, I'm hesitant to drain the tub for fear that some jet line or other line that doesn't get fully drained will freeze and crack. But I need to get that pump out so I can rebuild the wet end on the newer (really leaky one) at least. The leak from the older/no-so-leaky one is slow enough that it could probably be left until spring.

On the other older/not-so/leaky one, I know I'll likely never get the wet end off the pump shaft without destroying it so I'm planning on having to destroy that wet end to get it off and then replace it with a brand new one.

I know that it's unlikely that there's a way of getting the jet pumps out without first draining the tub but I thought I'd ask just in case there was. I really wish Watkins had put shutoff valves ahead of the intakes and just below the outputs on those jet pumps to isolate them but that would've added a lot of cost so I can see why they opted not to do that, especially since there are two jet pumps on that bad boy.

I can see how I can plug off the lines feeding the intake sides for the pumps but that won't stop water from flowing backwards through every jet line and draining into the engine room when I try to disconnect the jet pumps from the output lines.

Another solution would be to put some of that stops-leaks stuff through the system but I'm worried that it will get blown out by pressure when I turn on the pumps. Is that a valid concern or could that actually work as a temporary measure to get me through the winter?
 
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Thanks, @RDspaguy, I kinda figured that would be the case but I just had to throw it out there in case there was some clever trick out there that I just couldn't think of. Dang, I wish that tub had isolation valves either side of the jet pumps! It's -13C so I really can't drain it now... :(
 
in case there was some clever trick out there that I just couldn't think of.
I've tried all manner of clever tricks over the years, but have concluded that it's easier to just get wet. I can pull a pump and slap some winter plugs in, do the thing, then pull the plugs and put it back and only lose maybe 20 gallons, but it'll all be on me. The hard part is not washing out the o-ring (flat gaskets are your friend). I wear swimwear in the summer and rain gear in the winter.
 
can see why they opted not to do that,
Valves are warranty nightmares. Poor chemistry destroys them and when you close them they stick, or the handle pulls out, or the ball stem breaks, and now you have a plumbing repair under warranty. No valves, no warranty claims. Draining and filling are not covered by warranty, so it puts that expense off on the customer. Many new spas have got rid of the valves.

can see how I can plug off the lines feeding the intake sides for the pumps
Possibly, from in the tub, which for me is far worse than getting sprayed by a union. But if that's the manner you choose to get wet then go for it.
That's alot of plugs.

stops-leaks stuff
Won't work on a rotating seal. It just clogs seeping glue joints and such, and it's not even very good at that. It's like pepper in the radiator.

lose maybe 20 gallons, but it'll all be on me.
Correction: It will all be on me and the equipment. Cover the electronics and such with trash bags before opening the fire hydrant or you may be in for a long session with the hair dryer.
 
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