Is a pool refill best option in my case?

You may have heard the term "chlorine lock". Chlorine lock is when CYA concentrations get so high that keeping a proper level of free chlorine becomes problematic (because it needs to be very high). The higher the CYA, the higher the chlorine needs to be to be effective. CYA does not leave the water. It does degrade over time, but for practical purposes, lowering CYA level requires a full or partial pool water drain.
 
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Thank you all, this is helpful. Am I right that if I get a refill the SLAM won't be necessary? The filter will no longer clog after two hours because the algae debris is no longer there. Yes I'll need to get the clean new water at the correct chemistry but at least I'll be starting from a known good starting point.
I think the kit I did have was tossed, once I found Leslie's did testing! "

The water is around four years old already and evaporation rates in Arizona are pretty high so the water is certainly due for replacing, I was just wondering if I could "salvage" the current water for the summer but this seems to be quite a bit of work (for a novice) now that this algae infestation has gotten a grip.

So I'll need a fresh one of those and this one that people are suggesting?

 
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Thank you all, this is helpful. Am I right that if I get a refill the SLAM won't be necessary? The filter will no longer clog after two hours because the algae debris is no longer there. Yes I'll need to get the clean new water at the correct chemistry but at least I'll be starting from a known good starting point.
I think the kit I did have was tossed, once I found Leslie's did testing! "

The water is around four years old already and evaporation rates in Arizona are pretty high so the water is certainly due for replacing, I was just wondering if I could "salvage" the current water for the summer but this seems to be quite a bit of work (for a novice) now that this algae infestation has gotten a grip.

So I'll need a fresh one of those and this one that people are suggesting?

Just a note that water doesnt get old and need repoacing. Its stuff that gets put in the water that cant be removed that makes it tough. The two things that dont come out are CYA and calcium. Thats your concern, not the age of the water per-se.

Just to reinterate the Leslies thing, you can take the exact same sample of water to two different Leslies stores and theres a good chance you get wildly different results. Even taking the same water sample to the same store at different times can do that. The reason for that is their tests have very wide tolerance levels of accuracy. An example is their iron test that has a tolerance of +\- 0.3ppm for samples ranging from 0-0.3ppm. (Yes, you read that right) ill see if I can find the link with all the accuracy numbers. (I think @Newdude may have posted them)
 
I wonder if anyone has any idea, from experience or stories they heard, just how many filter cleans are needed to remove most of the algae debris. I've cleaned my filter three times so far and can't yet see much of an improvement in the water clarity.

When I do clean them the water runs a deep green so clearly the filter is catching lots of stuff - but will I need ten such cleans? twenty? After a clean pressure is 10psi, after a couple of hours it reaches 20psi and eventually after another couple of hours hits like 30psi and the water is barely moving.

I also dumped two gallons of 12% liquid chlorine in, I'm likely getting a pool pro in to do the SLAM for me too, but in the meantime I'll be doing the filter cleans.
 
I'm likely getting a pool pro in to do the SLAM for me too,
They will not do that. They will nuke it to very high FC and say that is good. The algae will be back.

First you must kill off the algae. You are playing with it.
 
If your CYA level is high, you will need to drain. If you drain 75% and refill with fresh water, that will be less algae to filter out. Be patient, post a full set of test results, and we can assist from there. As mentioned, a pool Pro will not follow TFP protocol and algae will return.
 
OK So I'm going to empty the pool and refill, the CYA is (according to Leslie's) 181ppm (was 126 ten days ago) and it is four years old and has seen a lot of chlorine tablets used.

Can anyone recommend a good pump? something that will drain 20,000 gallons in say 8hrs or less with a 6 or 7 ft rise?

I'm on a well system here so 20,000 gallons water costs me about 1,000 bucks and comes in 10 truck loads and I'll need this to start filling at like 5am to avoid the pool being exposed to excessive heat as the Arizona day begins.

Thx
 

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I have this pump. The current price is a pretty good value at its current price.

Moving forward, avoid solid forms of chlorine that will raise cya levels. Stick with liquid chlorine or a saltwater chlorine generator system.
 
They will not do that. They will nuke it to very high FC and say that is good. The algae will be back.

First you must kill off the algae. You are playing with it.
Well there is uncertainty everywhere and differing opinions everywhere.

I'm not a chemist, if this was electronics, radio or computing I'd be able to assess
Home Depot rents high speed sump pumps.
That's a very good point! never occurred to me, thank you!

I have a small-ish pump rated at 2,500 GPH (really bought for my hot tub) and the reviews suggest that the actual throughput is much less when pumping a 6ft head. So I don't want to calculate timings based on their published flow rates.
 
Well there is uncertainty everywhere and differing opinions everywhere.
Thats true, but this web forum is dedicated to teaching only one opinion. 😉 trust these guys, they know what their talking about. The SLAM process takes multiple days/weeks of daily testing and dosing multiple times per day. Almost guaranteed you cant find a pool contractor to do that.
 
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I have this pump. The current price is a pretty good value at its current price.

Moving forward, avoid solid forms of chlorine that will raise cya levels. Stick with liquid chlorine or a saltwater chlorine generator system.
OK thank you, I bought 12 gallons of liquid chlorine today - everything I read, including here, suggests this (crude though it might be) is a decent hammer for this algae stuff.

Also I am now seeing something that makes more sense. The rate at which the filter clogs seems to be diminishing, that is the mass of "algae per minute" being pumped into the filter seems to be reducing.

Yesterday the system went from 10psi to 30psi in like two hours and to all intents and purposes water flow ceased, the vacuum head became stationary and the small waterfall stopped yet the pump was still running.

Today its behaving different, the vacuum head is really moving and the waterfall is fine and its about 3hrs since the last filter clean at noon.

I suspect that yesterday the vacuum was sucking up a lot of algae/debris from the floor of the pool and that was likely quite dense. Today that has gone and its now picking up algae/debris that is much less concentrated floating freely in the water.

Before I started any of this I aggressively brushed all around the sides and floor of the pool and so I imagine a lot of debris then slowly sank to the bottom and created a lot of initial work for the filter.

The water still looks very cloudy but I imagine this will diminish as the days go by, after all I can see when I clean the filter that there's a LOT of green color coming out as I jet the filters. Also much of that initial filtering was likely stuff on the floor of the pool, not itself contributing to the cloudiness.

I'll dump more chlorine tomorrow and re-clean the the filter and resume, also the filter is 300 sq ft and the new one (getting installed Tuesday) is 420 sq ft and much easier to open and clean so I expect the whole clarity issue to start to improve. As soon as the rate of removal of algae exceeds its rate of growth, it is doomed to die.

I will post again tomorrow, thanks again for the helpful comments.

(I forgot to include some relevant info, 1. The pool vacuum head jammed, broke a few weeks ago and I never noticed for two weeks so the pool was not actually being vacuumed. 2. We had a ton of rain early this year, dumping one or two inches into the pool, that's a lot of organic debris. 3. The chlorine levels dropped because I misjudged things, assumed there were tablets in the floater when they'd already totally dissolved. I think all of these combined is what has led to the algae outburst.)
 
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Well there is uncertainty everywhere and differing opinions everywhere
This is true. As far as you know we're just a bunch of trolls on the internet. I can tell you that I've been a pool owner for most of my life, and the TFP method works. I've been down the pool store road and listened to their bogus advice which ended up costing me lots of money, filled my pool with Magic potions, cya and calcium, and resulted in several algae outbreaks.

The best advice I can give you is not to mix advice from different sources. If you're going with the tfp method, embrace it fully and resist other advice from facebook, reddit, and the pool stores.

Nobody here is trying to sell you anything or trying to force you to do anything you don't want to do.

We are here to help. Best wishes!

Mike
 
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OK, I'm refilling pool on Wednesday. will drain it Tuesday afternoon/evening, remove that suspended algae and CYA.

When I do this, is there a basic initial setup to get chlorinated?

I'm ordering a pool chemistry book too, so I can start to get a better understanding of this subject.

This book seems good, what do you guys think?

 
I'm ordering a pool chemistry book too, so I can start to get a better understanding of this subject.

This book seems good, what do you guys think?


The best advice I can give you is not to mix advice from different sources. If you're going with the tfp method, embrace it fully and resist other advice from facebook, reddit, and the pool stores.
Study Pool School and TFP Wiki articles. Get your advice from the forum if you need additional assistance. Everything you need to know is here.
 

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