Intellichlor installation

I have Yellow/White power wires from Power Center. Does it matter which color goes to load 1 or 2 (see image?)
white and yellow from the power center are the correct wires for 240V and are interchangeable on the load side of the relay, however, for compliance with NEC, assuming you have to buy wire, dont use white as white indicative of a neutral wire in 120v. if you already have white then at a minimum, you need to tape the conductor black or red to indicate that the white wire is used as a hot. There is enough of a mess in that panel as it is (no judgement lol, just my adhd brain really wants to fly to texas and clean it up :LOL: ) so make life easy for someone working on it in the future and dont use white.
Also sorry for the dumb question. Where do I connect the ground wire from the Power Center on the Easy Touch panel?
Green arrow to the ground Busbar
groundbus.jpegIn addition, dont forget to connect the bonding lug on the power center to your bonding wire with #8 bare copper, youll probably need a split bolt and ~4-5ft #8 bare copper wire depending on where you put the power center
 
Last edited:
white and yellow from the power center are the correct wires for 240V and are interchangeable on the load side of the relay, however, for compliance with NEC, assuming you have to buy wire, dont use white as white indicative of a neutral wire in 120v. if you already have white then at a minimum, you need to tape the conductor black or red to indicate that the white wire is used as a hot. There is enough of a mess in that panel as it is (no judgement lol, just my adhd brain really wants to fly to texas and clean it up :LOL: ) so make life easy for someone working on it in the future and dont use white.

Green arrow to the ground Busbar
View attachment 520051In addition, dont forget to connect the bonding lug on the power center to your bonding wire with #8 bare copper, youll probably need a split bolt and ~4-5ft #8 bare copper wire depending on where you put the power center
My goodness, thank you so much for all this information. So this image is correct right? Have 2 wires going together on both Load 1 and 2?

Thank you in advance.

653D1DF3-A27A-4220-A138-D981B0C28519.jpeg
 
And to add the pre-requisite warning I probably should have led with:
MAKE SURE THE POWER IS OFF TO THE PANEL BEFORE DOING ANY OF THIS WORK - HIGH VOLTAGE CAN KILL YOU - IF YOU ARE AT ALL UNCOMFORTABLE STOP AND PAY SOMEONE :)
 
I have the internal SWG transformer (and now that i look, didn't tape the white since it comes straight from the transformer with no extension so do as i say not as i do :LOL: )
20230214_145128.jpg
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You will attach the #8 bare copper with the split bolt linked above to your existing bonding wire. I circled what looks like your bonding wire in red below.
View attachment 520279
Ok thank you!

I couldn’t find the split bolt (#8-#16) you listed. Would #10-#8 work? It was the most similar one looking on the shelf.

Also, is it ok to use the 12/2 cable line instead of separate lines of 12 solid THHN?
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    504.2 KB · Views: 1
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    271.6 KB · Views: 1
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    494.4 KB · Views: 1
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    223.6 KB · Views: 1
Yes!

No - romex is not rated for damp/wet locations, NEC considers conduit a damp install

Yes!
Ahultin,

Thank you so much for the help. I finally installed the power center.

Installing the chlorinator, would you know what the gap needs to be between the O-ring and the black coupling (before getting hand tightened? The cut out template seems to be very wide. Just wondering if it needs to be snug right there before getting hand tightened. So afraid water will start leaking if not flush.
 
There should be little or no gap between the 0 ring and the mating surface of the union
Thank you. After 2 weeks of torture of putting the pvc pipes together, the cell is finally working. I had such struggle with small tiny leaks around the union, pvc elbows, etc - trying to get that gap perfect is impossible. One more extra quarter turn on one side made the other side leak and vice versa. But salt level finally down from 5900 (put too much because of inaccurate salt level reading from the cell) to finally 3500. All is working now and learned a lot. Thank you.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ahultin
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.