- Mar 8, 2012
- 29
My intellichlor IC40 has red and green alternating flashing salt level lights low-good; a steady red light for flow. Just like in this video pulled from the web:
There are many posts about this and I have had this condition before. Yes, I have had the pool chemicals tested and they are all ok (ph 7.0, salt 3300ppm etc). Temp is 70. Yes, flow is very good (and in any case I tried a much higher speed on my var speed pump to no effect). Cell is clean.
So, as in the past, I ordered a new flow switch and replaced it (here is what I purchased: https://www.walmart.com/ip/EROCK-Fl...IC40-IC60/724889076?athbdg=L1100&from=/search)
The flashing lights condition did not go away. It got worse: now the diagnostics in my EasyTouch says salt 0 ppm (it was reading the same 3300ppm as when tested at the store before I replaced the flow switch). Oh, and I did try to shut the system off for 15 min, disconnect and reconnect the cable from the chlorinator to the control panel, and waited 12 hrs, all recommendations in other threads. No progress.
So:
1. Could the flow switch be bad? How can I test?
2. Maybe the connection to the flow switch is bad? The four cables are connected by pressing on the 4 button splices without removing insulator from cable, but maybe some/all are not making good contact? How do I know/test?
3. Could it be something else?
There are many posts about this and I have had this condition before. Yes, I have had the pool chemicals tested and they are all ok (ph 7.0, salt 3300ppm etc). Temp is 70. Yes, flow is very good (and in any case I tried a much higher speed on my var speed pump to no effect). Cell is clean.
So, as in the past, I ordered a new flow switch and replaced it (here is what I purchased: https://www.walmart.com/ip/EROCK-Fl...IC40-IC60/724889076?athbdg=L1100&from=/search)
The flashing lights condition did not go away. It got worse: now the diagnostics in my EasyTouch says salt 0 ppm (it was reading the same 3300ppm as when tested at the store before I replaced the flow switch). Oh, and I did try to shut the system off for 15 min, disconnect and reconnect the cable from the chlorinator to the control panel, and waited 12 hrs, all recommendations in other threads. No progress.
So:
1. Could the flow switch be bad? How can I test?
2. Maybe the connection to the flow switch is bad? The four cables are connected by pressing on the 4 button splices without removing insulator from cable, but maybe some/all are not making good contact? How do I know/test?
3. Could it be something else?