Intellichlor IC40 only runs in boost mode

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A

acarpenter27

Member
May 9, 2023
11
Maryland
Pool Size
30000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Hello, I have an Intellichlor IC40 that only works in boost mode. I have tried the following:
- unplug it and/or turn off the breaker
- replaced flow switch
- hold down more button (nothing happens)
- press less+more buttons to turn off boost
- waiting a few days

I have no automation - just the IC40 and the power unit. Consistently, I will notice that the led for good salt level and the flow less are solid green. But then I press either more or less and the output less scroll left to right and the cell light goes on and solid green. It will run this way for a while then go back to solid green salt led and flow.

I can’t get the output to do anything other than scroll left to right which I’m almost positive is boost mode. The only other thing I’ll add is that the 2/20% output led does not work at all.

Any suggestions before I go buy a new one.
 
Welcome to TFP.

Where in the USA are you located?

How old is your cell?

If the CELL light goes on then your cell is generating. The cell light goes off when the cell is testing during the off period of the % generating cycle. See SWG Generation Cycle Times - Further Reading
 
Thank you!

I am in Maryland.

The cell is 6 years old.

So, my problem is that I cannot adjust the output% at all, ever. I also cleaned the cell over the winter. To add to the original issue, the cell now displays a red light indicating “cold water”. This isn’t accurate as the heater is on and currently reading 82 degrees. Even without the heater, it’s been plenty warm the past few days.
 
A,

Thanks for updating your location, as I never respond to anyone with a location of USA..

Most cells last 5 to 7 years. Just something to keep in mind.

Sorry if I am slow, but are you saying for the past 6 years you have never been able to adjust the output % or is this just a recent problem???

The cell measures the water temp using a thermistor inside the flow switch assy. If that thermistor is bad it can give you a false "cold water" light. The problem is that when the cold water light is on, none of the other light are normally on. So, if you have a cold water light plus other lights, it sure sounds like a cell failure to me.

When you initially start the cell up, does it flash the salt light like a railroad crossing for about 5 minutes before showing a green salt light?

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
No worries, I just appreciate the input as I am new to owning and maintaining a pool. I don’t know the entire history of the equipment since we bought the home with the pool last year. The problem I experienced last year was that the cell indicated that the salt level was low but was actually way too high when tested. I corrected the salinity level by draining and refilling so I am now good with that issue.

The cell was not very dirty when I cleaned it but went ahead and did it since it was apart and there was some calcium buildup.

Yes, the railroad lights appear in the initial power up but I am unable to adjust the output to anything other than 100%. This is of course when the cold water light isn’t on.
 
A,

What does the cell plug into? Is it a small box about the size of a shoebox, or is it a much larger box?

I ask, because when the cell is connected to an automation system, it will not allow you to adjust the output from the cell. It may be your cell just 'thinks' it is connected to an automation system when it is not.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
It’s plugged into the Intellichlor power center. Roughly 12” tall by 5” wide - barely the size of a shoe box. I don’t have an automation system. Everything is run off the pump schedule.
 
acarpenter27 said:
I have no automation - just the IC40 and the power unit. Consistently, I will notice that the led for good salt level and the flow less are solid green. But then I press either more or less and the output less scroll left to right and the cell light goes on and solid green. It will run this way for a while then go back to solid green salt led and flow.
Click to expand...
This sounds like proper operation as you described it. When you press more or less to adjust the % of time that the cell operates, it turns on and starts generating. And then it goes off after a period of time unless you have set it to run 100%.

So if you have it set to 20% for instance, it should turn on and off but only run with the green cell light on for 12 minutes per hour.
 

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VetteBlue said:
This sounds like proper operation as you described it. When you press more or less to adjust the % of time that the cell operates, it turns on and starts generating. And then it goes off after a period of time unless you have set it to run 100%.

So if you have it set to 20% for instance, it should turn on and off but only run with the green cell light on for 12 minutes per hour.
Click to expand...
The problem I'm having is that after the initial scrolling of the percentage output LEDs, I cannot select any output percentage.

When the scrolling LEDs turn off after 24 hours or so, I press either the "more" or "less" button, it starts scrolling again. I tried to take a video but I guess TFP doesn't like iPhone vids.
 
acarpenter27 said:
The problem I'm having is that after the initial scrolling of the percentage output LEDs, I cannot select any output percentage.

When the scrolling LEDs turn off after 24 hours or so, I press either the "more" or "less" button, it starts scrolling again. I tried to take a video but I guess TFP doesn't like iPhone vids.
Click to expand...
Are you saying your SWG is stuck in Boost mode?

Have you tried killing all of the power, so all the lights go off on the IC40, and then repowering and restarting everything?
 
VetteBlue said:
Are you saying your SWG is stuck in Boost mode?

Have you tried killing all of the power, so all the lights go off on the IC40, and then repowering and restarting everything?
Click to expand...
Yes, I tried disconnecting the ic40 from the power supply and cycling the breakers - no change. The unit stays in boost mode for (I assume) 24 hours. After the output LEDs stop scrolling, the cycle continues. I’ll press the less or more button and it will go back into super chlorination mode. I can’t adjust the output to anything else, nor can I get it to go in diagnostic mode. Attaching a YouTube video:


I will add that even though the ic40 looks like it is in super chlorination mode, it is not generating ANY chlorine.
 
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