I'm not having to solder the thermistor on anymore, thank God. An engineer at worth with the same SWG gave me a pair of connectors that have a tiny screw to clamp the thermistor in place. We just left the old thermistor's legs soldered into place to give us something to clamp the new one to.I have to snip the legs of the new one down a bit so it's the same length and fits properly inside the housing.
Instant salinity reads correctly after Startup, then Drops to 0000
- Thread starter SonVolt
- Start date
Meadow
0
I agree with your theory but each thermistor was vigorously subjected for torture bench test prior to deployment. The breaking point was determined and mandated accordingly. None of the fallouts fit the statement. Anyway, thank you and please ignore me on this.
Interesting. If the thermistor wasn't bad, what's your guess on why my SWG started "working" (supposedly) again when I replaced it?
If the lights were just blinking, the cell was probably working. If they were solid, then production stops.
Blinking begins at 2,700 ppm and solid begins at 2,300 ppm average salinity.
I suspect that the issue was just low salinity or a failing cell causing the average salinity to read lower than actual.
It would have been helpful to have the diagnostic readings before you replaced the thermistor. Maybe it was bad, maybe not. Test it to see what the resistance shows.
If the resistance is not close to 2 ohms, it's bad. If the resistance is 2 ohms, it's probably good.
I think that the resistance test is probably pretty reliable but I don't think that just because you get 2 ohms, the thermistor is definitely good. It's a used component and it might have failed or become compromised.
Maybe a 2 ohm reading is a definitive test to prove that the thermistor is definitely good. I don't know. It's just my opinion that it's not a definitive test.
I would have to defer to the manufacturer for what constitutes a definitive test.
Also, I don't think that the thermistors would be bench tested. They are a low cost commodity. Bench testing would not be economically feasible. At best, they're probably scanned by an automated system for obvious defects and sample tested.
In any case, the thermistor started out good but has been used, which means that it could have degraded or become compromised.
Blinking begins at 2,700 ppm and solid begins at 2,300 ppm average salinity.
I suspect that the issue was just low salinity or a failing cell causing the average salinity to read lower than actual.
It would have been helpful to have the diagnostic readings before you replaced the thermistor. Maybe it was bad, maybe not. Test it to see what the resistance shows.
If the resistance is not close to 2 ohms, it's bad. If the resistance is 2 ohms, it's probably good.
I think that the resistance test is probably pretty reliable but I don't think that just because you get 2 ohms, the thermistor is definitely good. It's a used component and it might have failed or become compromised.
Maybe a 2 ohm reading is a definitive test to prove that the thermistor is definitely good. I don't know. It's just my opinion that it's not a definitive test.
I would have to defer to the manufacturer for what constitutes a definitive test.
Also, I don't think that the thermistors would be bench tested. They are a low cost commodity. Bench testing would not be economically feasible. At best, they're probably scanned by an automated system for obvious defects and sample tested.
In any case, the thermistor started out good but has been used, which means that it could have degraded or become compromised.
Meadow
0
Good for you! You mean like this >https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/167903-Aquarite-How-to-Diagnose-a-Bad-Thermistor
I don't know, maybe some magic happens when you added salt and recalibrate the instant salinity. I guess it's just a matter of time. I would still recommend for you to verify your actual salt level, though. In the meantime, be happy knowing that your SWCG is producing chlorine.
My original issue was that the LEDs would shut off completely after a few seconds. They'd light up on startup, then all shut off after a few seconds.
Here's the diagnostics BEFORE I replaced the thermistor. Notice the LEDs aren't working.
IMG 2266 - YouTube
Ok, that's a bad thermistor. The low voltage is common when the thermistor fails.
I would still recommend that you track the actual salinity to monitor the performance of the cell.
I would still recommend that you track the actual salinity to monitor the performance of the cell.
Meadow
0
I will verify salt level tomorrow at the pool store since I don't have a salt water testing kit right now. As opposed to the drops, what's your thoughts on a digital salinity meter?
https://www.amazon.com/eSeasongear-...32458285&sr=1-23&keywords=saltwater+pool+test
That link you posted is the same concept, but mine uses this tiny metal clamp things that we pulled out of some electrical parts - a terminal block I think - from the lab here at work. Notice the little metal pieces.
Meadow
0
That's a DIN Rail terminal block. Sorry, I have not use a salinity tester other than the K-1766. Let's hope for others with experience on that to chime in.
I would like to assume that the old Thermistor has no visual signs of crack and pretty much in good shape.
When you get the chance, can I ask your cooperation to test the resistance of the old Thermistor? Disregard the following if it reads more way more than 2 ohms.
But if indeed it reads 2 ohms, heat it up using hair dryer or heat gun (no direct flame) while the test leads are attached. If the resistance goes down to near zero the Thermistor is good. But if the resistance drifts upward then goes back down when it cools down then that's not good. In my entire career, I have not seen an NTC exhibiting the behavior of a PTC. If the test results confirmed the latter please PM me. Thank you...Meadow
Meadow
0
As to the fix, I have yet to retrofit the board with the least expensive timer as shown below. $1 - 4 each, shipped from China but unfortunately, the cargo ship is being paddled by squirrels.
Figured the addition of the timer relay @ 10A will take some load off or at least work together hand in hand with the thermistor to prolong its life. I don't consider this route as a modification intended to alter the functionality of the mainboard as designed but a replica of the upgrade by Hayward to their newest GLX-PCB-RITE with a 16A SPST K4 relay.
For the tech-savvy, you know what I'm talking about and perhaps you already upgraded yours or planning to do the same. But for those in the need to know, see post# 6 here.
Until then, it's a game of waiting but I will update ya'll with pics on a separate thread.
Figured the addition of the timer relay @ 10A will take some load off or at least work together hand in hand with the thermistor to prolong its life. I don't consider this route as a modification intended to alter the functionality of the mainboard as designed but a replica of the upgrade by Hayward to their newest GLX-PCB-RITE with a 16A SPST K4 relay.
For the tech-savvy, you know what I'm talking about and perhaps you already upgraded yours or planning to do the same. But for those in the need to know, see post# 6 here.
Until then, it's a game of waiting but I will update ya'll with pics on a separate thread.
Looking at the back top of the thermistor in the picture, it looks like a very thin hairline crack. Can you confirm?
I think that's just a scratch mark from my fingernail, but I will double check.
Meadow- if you PM your address I'd be glad to stick it in an envelope and send it to you.
- - - Updated - - -
So I googled your Haward model number and found this. Is this a drop-in replacement that'll theretically solve the thermistor burning out issue? If so, I may purchase it so I don't have to deal with the headache.
https://www.amazon.com/Hayward-GLX-...ocphy=1012944&hvtargid=pla-310812346760&psc=1
Meadow- if you PM your address I'd be glad to stick it in an envelope and send it to you.
- - - Updated - - -
So I googled your Haward model number and found this. Is this a drop-in replacement that'll theretically solve the thermistor burning out issue? If so, I may purchase it so I don't have to deal with the headache.
https://www.amazon.com/Hayward-GLX-...ocphy=1012944&hvtargid=pla-310812346760&psc=1
The crack that I'm talking about is near the edge on the back top. It's a circular crack near the edge.
As far as I know, the glx-pcb-rite still has the thermistor.
As far as I know, the glx-pcb-rite still has the thermistor.
Meadow
0
That would be great but not just yet. Let's establish the facts before our research team get too excited.
Yes if your existing mainboard is GLX-PCB-RITE or post a pic of your board and we'll let you know.
No offense, but if you can solder why not just upgrade the board. The 220Vac timer cost a little over $2, provided your SWCG is configured for 220Vac or get the auto-ranging 100-250Vac timer for 4 bucks or more. The timer can be mounted inside the enclosure with nylon standoffs and should work exactly the same way as the K4 relay does on a new board.
But of course, the decision is yours!
I wouldn't even know which end of the soldering gun is hot even if it was plugged, lol. I had to track an intern down in the metallurgy lab the last time I need some soldering work.
UPDATE: This morning I checked the unit and the Power and Generating LEDS were still lit (yay!) and the average salinity was reading 3000 - but - the instant salinity was reading 0000. Is that normal? Does it cycle on and off? I'm taking a sample to the pool store today to get tested.