I'm on board; want to ditch pool guy

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I don't know why Dave has differing information on the laminated card with his TF100 kits vs. what I read at TFTestkits.net with regards to the sample size for the CH.
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The test is valid regardless of which sample size you use. At a recent meeting, it was decided that 25 ppm/drop resolution is perfectly adequate for the testing results we need. In other words, it is not very significant if your CH is 325 - 350 as opposed to 330 - 340.

By suggesting this resolution of 25 ppm per drop, the test is faster, saves on reagents and still provides the accuracy that you need for pool purposes.

All new TF-100 kits have instructions cards suggesting a 25 ml/drop (10 ml of sample water) and the extended directions and online publications will reflect that same sample size this week.
 
I had the same issues as you. (CYA 125) I used the tarp method. I bought a blue tarp at home depot. I think it was about $100. As I drained the water out I put new water on top. It worked swimmingly and I have maintained my CYA ever since.
 
Michaelab, I have to research the tarp method. How does it even work? The weight of the water woudl pull down the tarp in a second unless there are some serious stakes/weights applied to hold it in place. Whatever the case, I did the simultaneous drain/fill and I probably ended up wasting a lot of water that way, but you gotta do what you gotta due.

Long story short, I am hoping that having performed this and getting my levels dialed in, I will be able to squeeze some more time out of the current plaster job to avert having to resurface sooner than later. Former owner said she had drained some last summer, but it must have been very insignificant if the starting CH was 1500, and the CYA was >/= to 110. Guess her pool guy was using the common place method of tabs and what not. I have a feeling she must have done a partial drain, and then fill separately b/c maybe that is what exacerbated the plaster and cause a small bubble then delam for me.
 
The idea behind the tarp method is to have a tarp big enough that it can be pulled in while still having the edges of the tarp out of the pool. Water under Tarp + Water on Tarp = Full pool. It keeps the new water being added from mixing with the water that is in the pool. You will waste a lot less water.
 
It's the same as when I cover mine for the winter. Tarp is bigger than pool and I leave some slack before weighting it down around the perimeter with tires. The slack is for rain and snow to land on top of the tarp and the tarp to "float" a bit without ripping. I try to rake it before it freezes and again in the spring just before taking it off and letting the melted snow and rain I caught go into the pool and make up for the water I had to pump out to winterize it.

Here is a show and tell on how it's done : http://www.troublefreepool.com/foreclosure-swamp-in-pensacola-florida-t54326-40.html#p449932
 
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