I'm on board; want to ditch pool guy

If *I* were doing it (and I've never had to, to be honest) and had a problem with the hose remaining low in the pool I would try and tie it onto my ladder first. In fact, maybe tie it twice a foot apart as deep down on the ladder as possible. Then maybe running the water at high blast downward into the deep end would do the trick? Otherwise some towel wrapped bricks might be a good solution. I'd wrap the bricks because in my fiberglass pool I'd hate to risk scratching it. I'd position my little hot tub sump pump on the steps in the shallow end to take out the warmer water during the exchange.
Might be worth a try?
 
My hose sinks. I just toss it in the pool when I need to add water and it lands on the floor and stays there. Even on full blast, I've never seen it whip around or leap out of the water.

I supposes if it was some kind of new-fangled hose it might float. In which case, I'd stick a big rock in a sock and tie it to the hose. When I was done, I'd just pull the hose out and the weight would come with it.
 
I am looking at submersible pumps to do a partial drain. Noted that I could rent from Home Depot, but considering the cost, thinking about purchasing a small one to have on hand. Anyone have thoughts on what horsepower I would need? I have 3 hose spigots around the home that I can connect hoses to use for the fill from one end. But, I am not sure if the how many hoses I would really need (1-3) to have on during the partial drain/fill. Additionally, I have a feeling that the pump, even at 1/6 HP, may be pulling water quicker out of the pool that I can fill it. I have never used one of these pumps, so I don't know if they are variable speed.

Anyone got some thoughts?

Tx for the last few replies above. Didn't even see there was a pg. 2 until now. Will read it now.
 
But at what rate YippieSkippy would the new cold water sink so that it is not being pumped right out from the other end? Would the rate of sink be greater than the rate of spread to the other end, where the pump will be?
 
Seriously, if your pool guy charges $50/month and your water is always good, I'd be tempted to just let him keep doing his thing. That is if you can ignore test results or just not take them. I know I would get curious and start testing the water from time to time. And if he's only coming by once a week then most likely your FC will not always be at sanitary levels and I'd be much more bothered about that with little ones around than with keeping a jug of muriatic acid in the cabinet. I pay my pool guy to open the pool and to close the pool - while in use I maintain the water.
 
Used the TF-100 this AM to get my tests. 1st time really using all the tests, so there is probably some noobness to the results :) Anyhow, they are as follows (I question my results w/ the CH as I did not know what shade of blue I was supposed to see; and I kind of lost count of when the water changed to blue, but I know the amount of drops was in the 50s or at 60; I have already been told previously by service techs my CH is >1000):
pH 8.0
FC 10
CC 0
TC 10
CH 1500 (decided to go w/ 60 drops)
TA 150
CYA 110 (>100 so I am estimating this)

I ordered Superior Pump 91250 1/4 HP Thermoplastic Submersible Utility Pump from Amazon, which should come tomorrow. And, I have gotten clearance from the city that it could be drained into the street if the pH is b/w 6-9, FC 0, and no algaecides are in the water, or just dump it in the home's clean-out. I will do the later b/c I don't want to let the water go and risk getting algae w/ a FC of 0 all so that I could dump into the street.

With a crazy high CH and CYA like what they are, not sure how long this will take if I am trying to do the simultaneous drain/fill. What I thought was going to be about 75% partial drain, Pool Math shows it to be 100%. How long as I supposed to leave the pump running in order to replace 100% of my water? I'm sure the answer is contingent on the power of my pump, the fact that I will be draining via a garden hose, and the run of that hose and the height it has to climb. I am assuming may be 5 days to replace the water doing the partial drain/fill, since I can't have it going 24 hrs due to risks of any sewer backups.

Almost forgot, tested the CH of my fill water and it is 300.
 
Lot's of draining in your future. Hook up a sprinkler to the garden hose and water the trees/yard/kids. :flower:

Sequential drains would lower your CH faster. I'm not fully educated on plaster pools and draining so perhaps you can get better advice from others on how much is safe to drain at once, etc.
 
Before the TF 100, I had been using a Taylor Deluxe kit left from the prior owner. It has an OTO, pH, acid demand, and TA tests. I just used performed the TA test from this older kit and got a reading of 80. So, I did a repeat TA w/ the TF 100 and got a level of 120. Can anyone chime in on these differences? On the TF 100, a difference of 150 the 1st time, to 120 now may not be that significant, but perhaps you know better. But, a TA difference of 40 between the old Taylor kit at 80 and the TF at 120 seems concerning.
 

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Could be the difference in two, three .... ?? year old reagents and a new kit with fresh reagents !!

"Taylor recommends replacing all reagents each year."
 
After 5 days of simultaneous drain/fill, I retested this AM. Only tested for CYA & FC as it is the CYA I am trying to reduce. When all is said and done, hoping the CH will also be significantly reduced. Will test for that after I get the CYA at 40 or less. Results were:
CYA 70-80
FC 7.5
(Water temp approx 74 or so)

As the sticky on the extended test kit directions stated, I used the CYA sample a few times and kept retrying, & hence I got 70 to 80, but am referencing 80.

My submersible pump is 1/4 hp and is placed on the top step. I'm filling from the bottom of the deep end. I am using a conservative estimate that the pump drains 10 gpm, as there is not too much of a pitch from the step it needs to overcome. I try to I eye my fill rate so it appears to be the same. Again, per the recommendation here, I drain/fill simultaneously as I do not want to risk drying out the plaster as I know is on it's last legs. But, I am concerned about the amount of water that I've estimated I've drained and only been able to reduce the CYA between 30 to 40 parts. Based on my estimates, I have drained 14,250 gallons. With this much water removed, but filling at the same time, can these results be accurate?

Just seems as though I have drained and ran the pump so much only to reduce the level by 30-40 parts. Here is my drain log:
Starting FC 10 (raised to 13), CYA 110
6.3.14 1945-0145 3600 gal
6.4.14 0830-1230 2400 gal
6.5.14 1030-1330 1800 gal
FC 6.5 (raised to 9), CYA 85
6.6.14 0130-0930 4800 gal
6.7.14 0200-0445 1650 gal
FC 7.5 (raised to 9), CYA 80

The plants/grass have received a good watering, but I've had to drain more vs. recycle.

Opinions or thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated. Guess doing the simultaneous drain/fill really is going to use a ton of water to get my CYA in line.
 
Did you wipe the dropper tip after each drop with the new R-0009 in the TF-100? When it is VERY fresh, it can make the test read too high if you don't wipe the tip. That effect goes away after a week or so.

- - - Updated - - -

Did you wipe the dropper tip after each drop with the new R-0009 in the TF-100? When it is VERY fresh, it can make the test read too high if you don't wipe the tip. That effect goes away after a week or so.

PS - don't let yourself get bogged down on TA discrepancies. Your High CH and CYA should be our priority.
 
Tarp method sounds like a promising alternative idea, but rather difficult to perform when I initially think about it. I would have to research that method. Tx for that idea.

Dave, I did wipe the tip of the bottle after ea. drop. U say it goes away after a week. If that is the case, do I still need to wipe the dropper tip after the 1st week or two?
 
Latest levels post simultaneous partial drain/fill... Gonna hold here

Alright, now that I have wasted way too much water doing this simultaneous partial drain/fill, I got my levels this AM. While I knew this was necessary, it was just unfortunate having to use so so much water, and waste a very good amount down our home's sewer clean out. Our landscaping could only hold so much. Anyhow, what's done is done. Here are my latest levels:
Chlorine via OTO test: 5 (wanted to do this to see how it read compared to the FAS-DPD)
pH: 8.0
FC via FAS-DPD test: 5
forgot to test CC, but based on my last full testing it was 0
using above results, TC most likely 5
CH 900
TA 180
CYA 50

I am thinking about holding at these levels. I was doing a lot of reading early this AM regarding the best CYA level. I found some very in depth posts from Chem Geek and Mas985 (not sure if the later is right) regarding CYA levels and chlorine extinction vs. protection with sun exposure. Above what I was hoping to find. Basically, what I learned from the posts was that a level of 30-50 with a pool that is exposed to a good amount of sun may not be the proper level. The lower I go on my CYA, the faster my chlorine will get burned off/used from the sun. Thus, even though I would have to use slightly more chlorine by keeping a CYA level at 50, for example, than at 30, maintaining a level at 50 may be better suited for my pool d/t the sun exposure in Livermore, CA. Our pool is pretty much totally exposed from 1000 to 1800 hr, if not longer. In fact, in the ABCs of water chemistry in Pool School, it reads "If you have a SWG or very high levels of direct sunlight, CYA is typically kept between 70 and 80." Hence, while I was originally shooting to bring the CYA to 40, that may not have been a good goal. Therefore, I am thinking that perhaps 50 is good for now. I guess you want a CYA level that offers the chlorine protection from the sun, but is not so high that you have to use so much chlorine to maintain it. Can anyone chime in on this?

Kind of strange that my TA is 180 after all this, as my other post on my levels revealed it was lower. But, I have done a lot more water replacement since then, so perhaps it could actually read higher. According to the CSI on the Pool Calculator, I can manage with a CH of 900 and have balanced water if I manage my other parameters. It revealed that if I maintain a pH of 7.3, TA 80, CH 900, CYA 50 (using a water temp of 75) that my CSI would be 0.04. To achieve this, I am going to lower my pH to 7.0 using 292 oz. of 14.5% MA, point as many of my returns up to the surface, and then retest tomorrow. How long do I need to keep the pump running after adding this much acid in order to bring down the TA? I understand that for mixing typically the pump needs to be run for 1 hr for liquids, but in the case of pouring in extra MA to lower the pH, I am not sure if I need to run it longer.

Tx for all the help along the way with this. I will say that the water is ridiculously clear! Additionally, it feels good knowing that I am managing it. I am grateful for all the help I have received and all the superb information that this site provides.
 
Kiss4afrog, yes, I am pretty sure I did the test correctly per the TF100 instructions. I even verified on the Extended Test Kit Directions by Jason Lion at this site that the volume was 10 ml (as stated in the TF100 instructions) vs. the 25 ml sample called for in the Extended Test Kit Directions. I used a 10 ml sample of water and followed the directions in the TF100, and then multiplied by 25. But, now you have me second guessing.

I just checked the TF100 website, and it calls for a 25 ml sample to be used. The laminated card in my kit calls for 10 ml sample. At the Extended Test Kit Directions, it reads:
If you expect that your CH level is extremely high, you can do the test so that each drop is 25, instead of 10, to speed up the process and save on reagent usage. Use 10 ml of pool water, 10 drops of R-0010, 3 drops of R-0011L, and multiply the number of drops of R-0012 by 25 to get your CH level.

I don't know why Dave has differing information on the laminated card with his TF100 kits vs. what I read at TFTestkits.net with regards to the sample size for the CH.

Is this any reason for me to retest and use the 25 ml sample?
 

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