I am a newbie, check my math please

larryca said:
It has been unplugged since I started the shock process. Someone told me to do that way back in the beginning.

I checked my FC level at 6:00pm and it fell to 10.5. So it dropped 9ppm in 6 1/2 hours of full sunlight. Given that my CYA is still only 40, does that sound right?
It does, but anything you can do to keep it at/slightly above 15 ppmF FC (per poolcalculator) will speed this process up. It is hard to say how much FC was consumed by organics and how much went to the sun...at 40 ppm cya, it would not be unusual to loose 50% FC during the day in an unshaded pool.
 
Ok. I'm getting done. I found out that there was a difference between my test and my Son's. He was stingy with powder and was so slow with drops that they were a little small. I had him do a test right next to me and our numbers were off.

After dark last night I got a FC of 16.5. This morning, before sunrise, I got a FC of 16 and zero CC (clear). Today at 2pm it was 12.5 and now at 5:15 it is 10.0. So it looks like I got it done now.

When the pool school says put solid CYA in a sock in the skimmer is that referring to the powder form? I bought a 4lb jug of powder and need to add it now. Do I need to just put a sockfull in at a time? Sorry, I am sure this is covered somewhere else here.

Thanks again for everyone's help.
 
The other option is to put the CYA in a sock and hang it in front of the return jet ... if you have more than 2 return, you could put a sock at each one.

How much CYA have you calculated you need and what is your target? ... it is a test ;)
 
My target was 75. I'm am at 40 now. I get 4lb and 1 oz with the calculator. I bought a 4 lb jug. Was going to use all of it. Should end up around 74. And lower my ph by .63 to a level I don't know because I haven't tested PH because it is not accurate with FC above 10ppm.

How did I do?
 
That is what I got ...

Since are done shocking, let the FC drift under 10ppm so you can check the pH. Then keep an eye on the pH so it does not drop too much from the CYA.

If you fire the SWG up, that will also help keep the pH from dropping too much.
 
I did plug SWG back in and hung two socks with CYA. Re-tested water and the numbers are:

FC 9.5
CC. Less than .5 (barely pInk)
TA 140
CH 310
CYA 50
PH 8.2 (between 8.0-8.2)
Salt 3310

Do I wait for CYA to disolve and mix before I try and lower PH? I was getting ready to add acid to lower PH so I can get ready for borax.
 
make sure your TA is set before you start adding borates. Squeeze the socks as often as you can. I might wait a bit before adding too much acid to see what the CYA does to the pH.

Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short ;)
 
Hi. I have been working on lowering my TA for over a week now. I added acid and dropped the PH to 7.0. I am running my waterfall and ran a garden hose from my rain drain to a sprinkler head hung over the wall to make bubbles. It takes about three days for the PH to raise back up to 7.6. I have repeated this three times. The first round took my TA from 140 to 100. That was way more than I expected. Then the last two rounds have not dropped it any further. I still get 100ppm. Is this to be expected? It seems that the white scale at my waterline is getting worse. I am not sure if it is just getting fuzzy because of the low PH breaking it up or if it is getting more scale. I have been brushing it but, it doesn't seem to help. Should I just continue to add acid until I see a drop in TA?

Also, Can I assume that the CC will remain at 0 as long as I never let the FC drop below the min target? I have used almost all of the powder and drops for the FC test already. If I use the OTO test daily, how often should I actually perform the FC/CC test?

Thanks.

FC - 6.5
CC - 0
PH - 7.0
TA - 100
CH - 300
CYA - 70
BORATES - ? NONE ADDED YET/NOT TESTED
SALT - 3310
 
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