Help with Spa Startup

[Triumph65]

I have a large pool and have been following TFP methods for years. Test my water almost everyday.

I just purchased an Aquaterra Viceroy acrylic spa from Costco and have it in place. Waiting for electrician to come wire up before filling.

I looked through the Pool School book and the sticky threads. Is there a separate document or Spa 101 thread I can reference to get started? I believe the spa I purchased comes with an ozonator, realize some don’t like those but this so has one all the same.

The spa owners manual mentions using PH down & PH up, sodium bisulfate & sodium hydrogen carbonate. All I use for my pool is liquid chlorine and muriatic acid. I have a bunch of baking soda but have never needed to use as I am always fighting my TA & PH to get down in the pool

For sanitation the manual suggests sodium dichlor. I would assume you only use a little of this to get cya up to a certain level and then use liquid chlorine.

The manual also mentioned MPS for shock, which I’ve never used.

Sorry for the long post. If there is a spa 101 thread or ebook I’m happy to read study & follow.

Will most likely fill with my softened water, as my well water is very hard.

Thank you for any assistance!

 

[Newdude]

Many try the other ways with so-so results. When you have the TFPC down, it's easy to tweak it a little for the spa.

The spa sticky is at the top of the spa sub forum.

 

[JoeSelf]

Fill it up for the electrician, so it runs while they are there. 1st thing is an Ahh!some purge. You won't believe what comes out of a new spa. This came out of mine continuously for two 20 minute jet runs. Wipe it up, wear gloves & don't let it dry on the surface. And more Ahh!some is not better, dose per the instructions. "Luke, follow the sticky".

IMG_20220629_142812_01.jpg

• JoeSelf
• Jul 1, 2022

 

[RDspaguy]

Love ozone. It's like a shock machine, eliminating cc and even most fc overnight. It also kills contaminants, but as it only treats the water in the pipe before returning it to a dirty tub, it is not a stand-alone system. This is where mineral purifiers come in, but I digress. Just remember that chasing a constant residual in an ozonated tub is a pointless battle. Once the contaminants are destroyed by chlorine after use and the cover is closed there is no need for a high residual as few if any new contaminants can enter a closed spa. If you want a residual during use, add some before you get in.
Referring to ozone as a "low-chlorine" system is misleading. It will not save you on chemicals. In fact, it allows you to use too much (the best option vs an unknown contaminant level) and not suffer the consequences. The "low-chlorine" is in regards to the fact that every day when you open your cover the fc will be 0.5-ish and your water will be clean, sanitized, and odor-free. However, by opening the cover, much less getting in the spa, you have introduced contaminants with insufficient sanitizer to destroy them.

 

[phonedave]

I posted this in an other thread about a week ago

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


In general:

If you are not starting with a clean tub, you have an uphill slog in front of you. So to that end, purge your tub. Add AhhSome, run it for 20 min, and if stuff is still coming out, add more AhhSome, Keep doing so until no more Crud comes out of your pipes. While purging, remove your filters (feel free the let them float around in the tub to get cleaned though)

After a thorough cleaning and fresh fill this is what I do

Use dichlor initially to add both Chlorine and CYA until my CYA gets to 30-40 ppm

Once CYA is in range, use bleach or liquid chlorine to add FC

Use MA to adjust pH as necessary

Use Calcium Chloride to get my CH in the 300 ppm range (see comments on this below)

For the first week or so, I test daily. My pH will rise every day, and I knock it down to around 7.2 with MA. I don't try to force the pH and TA into balance. I just keep adjusting pH until the TA naturally comes along to a balance point. It takes about 7 - 10 days in order to do so.

Once the pH / TA dance has concluded, I move on to steady state maintenance.

My tub, in and of itself, eats about 1.5 oz of bleach a day - from regular degradation along with the impact of my ozone system. So I add 1.5 oz most days (5 times a week maybe). I don't test every day, just dose the tub.

After use (normal bather load is pretty clean 2 people for 30 min) I dose with 2 oz of bleach.

Once a week (on Saturday for some reason) I add a scant 1 oz of AquaClarity. I really feel this helps to practically eliminate any sort of build up in my plumbing. I have next to no scum, even when I purge before a water change. There are two small dead spots in my tub where I know things will build up (The right inside of the filter compartment, and on the bottom of one side of the neck blaster jets) but other than that - nothing. NOTE ON CH: This is where the CH of 300 ppm comes into play. I find that if I go below 300 ppm of CH, I get a lot of foaming with the Aqua Clarity. Your mileage may vary, or you may not use AquaClarity, and therefore have no need to raise CH.

I test the water 2-3 times a week, and sometimes I have to add acid. CYA also does degrade, so every so often I test that just to make sure, and will boost it with dichlor if needed.

I go 3-4 months between water changes.

Notice what is not included anywhere in this story - MPS or Defoamer.

Chlorine reacts with organics in the water to form combined chloramines (CC). Then you need to oxidize the CC to get rid of them. Ozone will do it, MPS will do it, and ........ good old Chlorine will do it.
That is why I dose with bleach right after we use the tub. In fact, in the winter I prepare the dose before we get in, and I leave it in a cup on the table. That way when I get out and it is cold, I don't need to mess around in the shed measuring bleach. I just dump in the pre-measured shot and all is take care of.

MPS is not bad per se (although apparently some people are allergic and get a bad rash from it) but it is not necessary - so it is an added expense, an extra chemical to maintain, and could cause rashes - why use it?

There is really no need to SLAM a tub that is maintained (or shock it depending on the terminology used). If you keep your FC at an appropriate level for your CYA, it keeps things in check.

Now the above is for normal day to day usage of my tub. If we are having a lot of people, or a party, or something else, then I will test, and depending on usage, dose with bleach mid-party (everyone get your dirty rears out of my tub for 10 minutes while I sanitize this thing)

 

[phonedave]

Love ozone. It's like a shock machine, eliminating cc and even most fc overnight. It also kills contaminants, but as it only treats the water in the pipe before returning it to a dirty tub, it is not a stand-alone system. This is where mineral purifiers come in, but I digress. Just remember that chasing a constant residual in an ozonated tub is a pointless battle. Once the contaminants are destroyed by chlorine after use and the cover is closed there is no need for a high residual as few if any new contaminants can enter a closed spa. If you want a residual during use, add some before you get in.
Referring to ozone as a "low-chlorine" system is misleading. It will not save you on chemicals. In fact, it allows you to use too much (the best option vs an unknown contaminant level) and not suffer the consequences. The "low-chlorine" is in regards to the fact that every day when you open your cover the fc will be 0.5-ish and your water will be clean, sanitized, and odor-free. However, by opening the cover, much less getting in the spa, you have introduced contaminants with insufficient sanitizer to destroy them.

This is why I know that I can take my hot tub and leave it alone for a few days and all will be well. If it is clean and sanitized when I close the cover, within reason, it will be clean and free of contamination when I open the cover in 2-3 days. If I am going to use it, then of course I have to first put in bleach. pH is a different matter, and until I get it stabilized I do have to check that frequently,.

Unlike my pool, which even with the solar cover on, gets all sorts of Crud in it on a daily basis. Crud which if not neutralized by FC is going to become a mess.

 

[Triumph65]

Upon filling my tub yesterday, here are the water values. I’ve not been able to add chlorine yet as local stores only had cal hypo. I can pick up some dichlor and liquid today as I will be in the big city

I use a Taylor K-2006C. My source water (well) is very high TA.

Ph 6.8-7
TA 290
CH 70-80
TC - Zero until tonight when I add.

I’ve been reading the sticky and the other posts in the forum.

Need help with list of what I will need today. I’m a little confused on why the summary section under “water balance” in the sticky mentions using dry acid. I was planning to use the same muriatic acid I use to manage my pool.

Here is what I was planning to buy.
- Liquid Chlorine (all my liquid chlorine for my pool is in my Rolachem barrel)
- Dichlor (to be used at first to build some CYA)
- Muriatic acid - To start process of lowering TA by the aeration method outlined in TFP
- I have baking soda at home if needed

Am I missing anything in my approach?
Do I need to pick anything else up?

Thank you for any assistance. I have been served well following the TFP methods for my pool and want to make sure I do the same for spa!

 

[Mdragger88]

Upon filling my tub yesterday, here are the water values. I’ve not been able to add chlorine yet as local stores only had cal hypo. I can pick up some dichlor and liquid today as I will be in the big city

I use a Taylor K-2006C. My source water (well) is very high TA.

Ph 6.8-7
TA 290
CH 70-80
TC - Zero until tonight when I add.

I’ve been reading the sticky and the other posts in the forum.

Need help with list of what I will need today. I’m a little confused on why the summary section under “water balance” in the sticky mentions using dry acid. I was planning to use the same muriatic acid I use to manage my pool.

Here is what I was planning to buy.
- Liquid Chlorine (all my liquid chlorine for my pool is in my Rolachem barrel)
- Dichlor (to be used at first to build some CYA)
- Muriatic acid - To start process of lowering TA by the aeration method outlined in TFP
- I have baking soda at home if needed

Am I missing anything in my approach?
Do I need to pick anything else up?

Thank you for any assistance. I have been served well following the TFP methods for my pool and want to make sure I do the same for spa!

Muriatic acid is preferred & recommended
Remember that dichlor is acidic so use
PoolMath effects of adding to see the effects before using any acid.
I have a feeling with that high Ta your ph will be in the 7’s upon your return simply due to aeration.
Can you not just steal a scootch of liquid chlorine? A few ounces for now is all you need to prevent nasties.

I don’t see ahhsome on your list…..
Here’s the deal,
All spas are wet tested at the factory- it is impossible to evacuate all the water from the plumbing afterwards this means nasty things grow & form biofilms whilst in transit to you. Biofilms aren’t completely eradicated by chlorine. An Ahhsome purge removes these biofilms.
Foregoing the purge of a new tub can set you up for higher fc demand & persistent cc’s right out of the gate even if you maintain impeccable sanitation (never falling below min for your cya)
so the sooner you do a purge the better. It is also recommended that you purge, drain & refill every 3-6 months as a part of normal maintenance. So doing so now would set you up for another in the early spring instead of having to do so in the middle of the winter unexpectedly.

Also, going forward, be sure to use the fas/dpd test as knowing your cc’s level is imperative to judging the health of the spa water. Persistent elevated cc’s (above 0.5ppm) are an indicator that it’s time to purge, drain, & refill.
*I realize there was no need to waste reagents today when you knew there was zero chlorine just wanted to be sure you keep an eye on cc’s

 

[Triumph65]

@Newdude - Thank you!
I’ll stick with TFP & the calculator

 

[Triumph65]

@JoeSelf - did you run the jets, drain, clean and refill? If so, what did you clean with?
Thank you!!

 

[Triumph65]

Fill it up for the electrician, so it runs while they are there. 1st thing is an Ahh!some purge. You won't believe what comes out of a new spa. This came out of mine continuously for two 20 minute jet runs. Wipe it up, wear gloves & don't let it dry on the surface. And more Ahh!some is not better, dose per the instructions. "Luke, follow the sticky".

IMG_20220629_142812_01.jpg

• JoeSelf
• Jul 1, 2022

Just finally figured out what Ahh!some is LOL. Thought it was an emoji typo

 

[Triumph65]

@phonedave - Great idea on prepping chlorine in cup before you get in!

 

[Mdragger88]

what is ahh-some?

What is Ahh-some?

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Triumph65]

@Mdragger88 - Ahh!-some on order. I start it out the right way and purge first.
Thanks!

 

[JoeSelf]

@JoeSelf - did you run the jets, drain, clean and refill? If so, what did you clean with?
Thank you!!

Just wiped it down and kept washing down the shell as I was draining. I use a sump pump so it happens fast.

I got one of these to replace the 3/4" Harbor Freight sump pump I started with. I use my 100' 1 1/2" backwash hose from the pool and can get it in the street. It goes over the 1 1/4" fitting. Had it in my cart for a long time waiting for a deal. It's under $100 right now. If you have PRIME.

Amazon.com

 

[Mdragger88]

For draining my hot tub quickly I just use my pool cover pump- just a thought incase you may already have one.

 

[Triumph65]

@JoeSelf - That’s a great idea. Will really speed up the process. Thanks!

 

[phonedave]

@phonedave - Great idea on prepping chlorine in cup before you get in!

I use these - Amazon.com

I use them to collect a water sample to bring indoors and test. I use them to measure bleach and acid (clearly not together) as well as for a whole bunch of non-hot tub related things.

I keep a half dozen or so in the "hot tub shed" and fill one up with 2oz of bleach before I get into the tub. I rinse and reuse them, but they are cheap enough that if something happens to one, or I use it for something like mixing epoxy, I just throw it away.

 

[Triumph65]

@phonedave -

Thanks for the suggestion of pre pouring.

I use those in the shop as well. For testing I fill up a generic squeeze bottle. Fill it up at the pool or spa and use it to fill up the test tubes. Super convenient, since you can squirt the exact amount you need in test tube.

I was thinking of using some of these small 4 oz bottles, pouring in 2-3 ounces of chlorine. 2-3 bottles prepped for busy weekends when kids come home and having them just pour in when they are done.

Appreciate the tip.

 

[Mdragger88]

I use the little $1 32oz or so bottles of bleach for my hot tub supply (i refill them with my big bottle of 10%). I buy a new one every so often at the dollar general/ dollar tree when I find an unadulterated one.
It fits nicely under my patio table in the bucket of patio stuff, they are vented (which is imperative if storing bleach) & because it was made to contain bleach its opaque. It is alot easier to pour a small amount with than a big jug. I keep a $1 plastic measuring cup on top of it with a big black line so my hubs & kiddos (who are teens now) know how much to use. I am generally around when the tub is used but there are occasions when I am not. No one else messes with the acid but me.