Hayward H350FD staying in standby mode

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direavenger

Member
Jun 6, 2022
9
Northeast NJ
Hi all,

My Hayward H350FD gas pool heater (manufactured in 2010) has an interesting problem. After verifying that it worked when I opened it a few weeks ago, it now stays in standby mode. It seems to power on and enter standby mode as normal. I hear what sounds like relays clicking when power is applied. Standby light is lit. I push the mode button and it will briefly transition to pool or spa (and shows the water temp) but then returns to standby after a second or two. No error codes. I have already tried replacing the keypad with a new one, but no change. Any ideas what might be causing this?
 
Nope, no automation....but I was actually thinking about hacking the remote control port to avoid the expense of having to replace the (very expensive) display board. I just need to find a description of the electrical interface.

Thank you for the link to creating a signature. I will do that.
 
Poolbreh said:
View attachment 420225do you have it in remote mode? If you do you probably have to follow same sequence to get out of it.
Click to expand...
Negative, not in remote or "bo" mode. Though that might be my solution if I can figure out how the interface works. I've sent emails to Hayward and a couple of other places to see if they have any onfo they can give to me. Otherwise, it's time to dig out the multimeter and O-scope to do some probing...
 

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ajw22 said:
Does the blower begin running?



Simple open or close relay on the "firemans switch".

Heater Control with Automation - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
Click to expand...
So if I'm reading you correctly, all I need to do is make a connection between the White 24VAC node and the Orange "Pool" node? It seems I'll need to monitor the water temperature myself as well, which is an unexpected wrinkle. I was hoping that the remote interface would simply be an alternative way of hitting the "mode" button, but it sounds like that is not the case.
 
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direavenger said:
So if I'm reading you correctly, all I need to do is make a connection between the White 24VAC node and the Orange "Pool" node? It seems I'll need to monitor the water temperature myself as well, which is an unexpected wrinkle. I was hoping that the remote interface would simply be an alternative way of hitting the "mode" button, but it sounds like that is not the case.
Click to expand...
The water wouldn’t exceed what the heaters temp is set at. If you wanted you could probably think of something that has a thermostat and dry relay that work together. The 2 wire just acts like a switch turning it off and on, when it’s hooked up to automation it’s based on the automation water sensor, and it turns the relay on and off depending on demand. If you just changed membrane it’s probably a display board issue. You can try to jump the ribbon connector.
 
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Realized you said you changed keypad/membrane. I would jump ribbon connector 1 and 4. Similar to this

B1FB7E3F-5E4A-44B1-80BD-7EFF5203B88A.jpeg
1 and 4 should change the mode if it reverts back to standby I would say it’s display board.(the video he does 1-2 for mastertemp)
 
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Update. I have now replaced the keypad, display board, ignition control board and fuse board. I replaced one at a time and checked for a change in behavior. After replacing the ICB and the fuse board, the mode will reliably change to whatever I select and stay there, but the heater itself does not try to fire up. No relays closing/opening, no blower, no ignition. Not a sound. No error codes either. The display just is happily sitting there, reading the current temperature in "POOL" mode.

Although my issue is not fixed, I did note that R45 on the ICB seemed scorched. Not sure if it's related but worth noting.
 
Poolbreh said:
Realized you said you changed keypad/membrane. I would jump ribbon connector 1 and 4. Similar to this

View attachment 420357
1 and 4 should change the mode if it reverts back to standby I would say it’s display board.(the video he does 1-2 for mastertemp)
Click to expand...

BTW, do NOT do what this tech is showing in the video. Pressing the buttons like this on a new keypad not affixed tot he ehater can destroy the dome buttons on the keypad. Just keep that in mind.
 
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direavenger said:
Update. I have now replaced the keypad, display board, ignition control board and fuse board. I replaced one at a time and checked for a change in behavior. After replacing the ICB and the fuse board, the mode will reliably change to whatever I select and stay there, but the heater itself does not try to fire up. No relays closing/opening, no blower, no ignition. Not a sound. No error codes either. The display just is happily sitting there, reading the current temperature in "POOL" mode.

Although my issue is not fixed, I did note that R45 on the ICB seemed scorched. Not sure if it's related but worth noting.
Click to expand...

Have you checked to make sure that the "set point" is higher than the current temp?
 
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