Green pool, help!

[Jtom]

I had a leaky multiport valve and had to fill the leaking pool multiple times with hard well water (CH 300, TA 350) while waiting for the maintenance fix, and I think threw off our water balance.

TA went high and pool got cloudy a week ago. On Sunday the pool was:
PH 7.5
FC 2.5
CC 0.5
CH 225
TA 180
CYA 30

Then the pool started turning green on top of cloudy. I finally got to the store and bought muriatic acid and added this to:
PH 6.8
FC 2.5
CC 0.5
CH 225
TA 100
CYA 30

And started trying to SLAM this morning since the TA was low enough. I added chlorine at 10:30am and got the FC to 12, and the CC is still only 0.5, and at 8pm there is still no sign of chlorine consumption and the CC is still only 0.5, which makes me worry that the SLAM isn’t killing what I thought was algae? I thought the chlorine consumption would be quick at the beginning but it doesn’t look like it’s doing anything these first 10 hours, do I just need to wait? Thanks

 

[Texas Splash]

Can you post a pic or two of the water?

 

[Jtom]

I should mention that I have a sand filter that had fresh sand put in when the valve was changed on Tuesday (after the cloudiness had already started), and we run the pump almost around the clock normally so it’s always circulating. These pics were from this afternoon.

Also using TF-100 test kit for water testing. Thanks

 

[Donldson]

Um, how much MA did you add?? It started turning green before you added it, right?

 

[Jtom]

Yes it started greening on Tuesday I believe, and I didn’t add muriatic acid (31.45%) until Wed night, and it was definitely green by then. I added about a half gallon at a time so about 2 gallons over 2 days before starting SLAM this morning. The pH went sub-6.8 after the last MA add but seemed to back to 6.8 by the time I was starting the SLAM.

 

[Jtom]

I just tested the chlorine again here at 10pm and it’s FC 10, CC 0.5. Should the CC be higher if the chlorine is killing algae?

 

[PoolStored]

I just tested the chlorine again here at 10pm and it’s FC 10, CC 0.5. Should the CC be higher if the chlorine is killing algae?

Not necessarily. Just keep slamming, don't test CC until pool is clear and you pass FC OCLT. When that happens, then test your CC with that passing FC test sample.

Worry first about getting the pool clear. When that happens, start doing OCLT.

Your SLAM target is 12ppm FC. Keep going!

 

[Texas Splash]

jtom, now that we see the water I'm going to ask some more questions:
- Not really a question, but please update your signature. See ours as examples. We look for your pool and equipment info on each post.
- The green may be nothing more than algae, or it may be something more. What else have you added to the water other than muriatic acid, stabilizer, or liquid chlorine? For example, any algaecides, pool products called "Blue" something?
- Are you on a well?
- Any copper plumbing or heater installed

 

[Jtom]

No other products added than what I listed, never used any algaecide or anything. Someone recommended this forum to me when we moved to this house with a pool, and I’ve been following TFP methods for 3 pool seasons now - this is my first green pool!

Yes on well with very hard water.

We do have a heater but it hasn’t been on in weeks. I only know what our pump is since we installed it new when we moved in, but don’t have details on the filter or heater.

My husband got overzealous with chlorine addition last night, unbeknownst to me, and the pool isn’t really green anymore. This morning FC 23, CC 0.5. So maybe it was just algae and needed more time and/or chlorine to kill it?

Thank you

 

[Jtom]

Pics of our pool equipment if it helps. Raypak heater, Hayward variable speed pump (we run it on the top speed 4), and sand filter. Thanks

 

[Texas Splash]

I have 3 concerns:
1. Algae which can be addressed by the SLAM Process.
2 - Iron from the well, almost a certainty.
3 - Copper from a bad heater element since it doesn't appear you have any way to bypass the heater.

For now, start the SLAM Process. Find your current CYA on the FC/CYA Levels and elevate the FC to that level and keep it there. At the same time, I would get some polyfill to the skimmer right away. You can also run pool water through a separate bucket filled with poly like seen below. Either way, the SLAM Process will aggravated iron to make it easier to filter. Let's see if that polyfill grabs any iron. If it does not, then the color change is either algae, copper, or both. Copper can only be removed by water exchange, so let's hope it's not that. But do those items above and report back for us.

 

[Jtom]

Is that poly fil like the stuffing? Thank you

 

[mknauss]

Is that poly fil like the stuffing? Thank you

Yes

 

[Texas Splash]

Maybe you'll get lucky and have good success with the poly.

 

[Jtom]

Well I tried the polyfil in the skimmer, and it didn’t catch anything other than a beetle and a bit of leaf debris, nothing out of the ordinary.

I’ve maintained the SLAM and the water is finally clearing up. It’s been passing OCLT for a few nights now but was still cloudy a few days ago, but now I can see the bottom again…good progress. Maybe it was just high TA and algae??

 

[mknauss]

TA does not make water cloudy. You are just clearing the pool of algae.

 

[Jtom]

I meant the high TA causing the chlorine to be ineffective…henceforth the algae.

Thanks for your help!

 

[PoolStored]

I meant the high TA causing the chlorine to be ineffective…henceforth the algae.

High TA doesn't cause the chlorine to be ineffective.

 

[Jtom]

Oh I read that on some site in my googling. I guess just because it’s on the internet doesn’t mean it’s true then?

So, I don’t think I ever let the pool free chlorine go below around 2 or so. Can the algae still take over even at that FC level?

Thanks

 

[PoolStored]

So, I don’t think I ever let the pool free chlorine go below around 2 or so. Can the algae still take over even at that FC level?

Depends on your CYA level! Read this (it's a link, click it) --> FC/CYA Levels