I forgot to put filter to circulate the 1st hour instead I left it on filter. I put it to circulate after I remembered my mistake. Will that error message up my sand in the filter. Thanks
Forgot a step
- Thread starter Corey4017
- Start date
- Jun 22, 2014
- 48,562
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Not sure I understand why you were trying to bypass the filter. Are you starting a SLAM Process? Was there another reason you were thinking of having the filter in recirculate versus filter?
Instructions on the floc stated to put filter from filter to circulate for 2 hours,and bypass the filter. Then shut it off and wait 12 hours +. I had read online somewhere that it was bad for the sand to run the floc thru the filter. The sand could clump. Or maybe that was just the vacuumed floc gunk on the bottom of pool. Or maybe the floc I poured in pool would get trapped in filter and I need to backwash it out and add more floc into the pool to replace the amount that filtered into the sand for that 1 hr.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 48,562
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Okay, I get it now. I didn't know you used floc. 
That's usually a no-no here at TFP, but we'll come back to that later. But at no point do you ever want floc to hit the sand. If it does, you can expect the quality of the sand to be compromised requiring it to be changed. 
I suspect the sand may be compromised, but time will tell. For now, follow the floc instructions to avoid ANY more floc hitting the sand. Vacuum to waste later, etc. Once you are able to filter again, start with the TFP SLAM Process. That is how you kill algae once and for all. The proper (elevated) amount of chlorine based on your current CYA as noted on the FC/CYA Levels. If you have any questions about either of those links let us know.
Your signature doesn't say, are you using a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C test kit?
That's usually a no-no here at TFP, but we'll come back to that later. But at no point do you ever want floc to hit the sand. If it does, you can expect the quality of the sand to be compromised requiring it to be changed. I suspect the sand may be compromised, but time will tell. For now, follow the floc instructions to avoid ANY more floc hitting the sand. Vacuum to waste later, etc. Once you are able to filter again, start with the TFP SLAM Process. That is how you kill algae once and for all. The proper (elevated) amount of chlorine based on your current CYA as noted on the FC/CYA Levels. If you have any questions about either of those links let us know.
Your signature doesn't say, are you using a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C test kit?
I backwashed the floc to waste and pool looks clear. Now then, no use I guess to Slam right now just because I am itching to get the multivalve of the top of the filter to check out the sand and if the floc I accidentally filtered thru it an hour affected it. The sand was changed in April. Though I think the man I had do it did not put enough, only 175 lbs and online for that Pentair 23 in diameter said 300 lbs of sand. If is clumped on top can I take the clumps out and massage the sand then put the proper amount of sand. Or do you suggest remove all sand and inspect the laterals.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 48,562
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Once you open the top of the filter, inspect the sand to see if the floc made it gummy or sticky. If so, you'll have to change it. If the sand still seems fluffy and gritty like new, then I would just add some new sand if it's low. I don't see a need to remove all the sand to inspect the laterals unless the floc ruined the sand and/or you believe a lateral is damaged and allowing sand into the pool. As for the algae and doing a SLAM Process, the floc doesn't kill algae, so at the very least you should do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to be sure.
I need to buy a better test kit 1st. I just have a FC that maxs out at 2.5 and a very basic ph and TC along with a few other tests. But yes I thing when vacuuming to waste I could see clumps along the edge of pool but algae clouds I believe hanging on the bottom. So it will take getting TF-100 test kit, and gallons of chlorine to get supplies. Anything else?
- Jun 22, 2014
- 48,562
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Getting a TF-100 (link in my signature) is a great first step. I can't imagine having a pool without one. If you can swing it, look at the magnetic smart/speed stir as well. Great tool to help mix your reagents. With the TF-100, you can confirm your CYA and then determine how much water you may need to exchange to lower the CYA - if actually needed.
Ordered the TF 100 Pro and finished vacuuming a corner I had to wait and fill water to top of pool. Observing the bottom the floc residue was not green but yellow brown. A good sign of dead algae. took sample of water to Leslie’s and CYA was 6.1 down from 9, FC was 4.65 with a little CC, all other chemicals ok and PH was 7.2, will go up when I get Alkalinity up from 810. Water super clear. Tomorrow I will do a trouble shoot on filter by putting DE in skimmer to see if it comes out of return ports as a muffler white plume. Fingers crossed. If not the filter may be ok
- Jun 22, 2014
- 48,562
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Good to hear you ordered the TF-100. You will be glad you did. Don't try to do too much to the water chemically until you get it. Store testing is horribly inaccurate.
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