First time Pool Owner

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NewbieForeva said:
Next Question,

I had took over the house since Jan 15. My water bill for the first month was $120 and now this month it's $180. Are yall water bill that high? I wonder if I definite have a leak
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So here is something funny about that.... my house in Virginia (where it rained ALL THE TIME), my water bill was horrid at about $190 every 2 months.. no pool, nothing special. They just charged an arm & a leg... moved back to Cali (you know, drought and the whole water issue) and have a pool... water bill is $70 every two months...

figure that one out :D :D :D :D
 
kimkats said:
Do you have an auto fill? Your answer will tell us what you need to do next.

CYA test---------I just GLANCE at the dot as I fill the tube. If you stare you WILL see the dot LOL. Glance in and look away. If you can still see the dot add some more. Glance and repeat until you cannot see the dot at a glance!

Kim
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I'm not sure if I have an autofill or not, but I think it is because the water line get fill up automatically

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clambert1273 said:
So here is something funny about that.... my house in Virginia (where it rained ALL THE TIME), my water bill was horrid at about $190 every 2 months.. no pool, nothing special. They just charged an arm & a leg... moved back to Cali (you know, drought and the whole water issue) and have a pool... water bill is $70 every two months...

figure that one out :D :D :D :D
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Mine is $180 for just 1 month.

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So after I cleaned my Hayward DE 2420 filter. I added in 3 lbs of DE and i saw the psi went up to around 8 psi. I decided to add in another 2 lbs of DE and now my psi is at about 2 psi. Do I have too much DE which causing my psi to be low at 2 psi?
 
As you've probably heard, every pool is different ... to include your normal (clean/starting) psi pressure. Do you recall what you consider to be your baseline (clean) starting psi? So for example, if you normally have a clean staring psi of 10, and now it's at 2, something seems wrong. When you recently cleaned your filter, did you actually take it apart, or just backwash it? How about water flow from the pool skimmer to your pump strainer basket? Is there air under the clear lid, or is the water flowing nicely? A low filter pressure might cause us to be concerned with either a section-side air leak or a blockage of some type. SO we want to make sure there was no chance anything got sucked into that line, and that everything is closed-up tightly, etc. Another thing ....... anything seem odd when you added the DE? I'm assuming you added it at the poolside skimmer correct? Did it dissolve well, or did anything seem strange? DE can be known to "clump-up" under the right (or wrong) circumstances. Did you place any valves back to their original position once cleaning was finished? And finally, let's not rule-out the pressure gauge to ensure it's not stuck or going bad. Does the needle change at all if you gently tap it? If you shut the system completely off, does the needle reset back to zero?
 
Texas Splash said:
As you've probably heard, every pool is different ... to include your normal (clean/starting) psi pressure. Do you recall what you consider to be your baseline (clean) starting psi? So for example, if you normally have a clean staring psi of 10, and now it's at 2, something seems wrong. When you recently cleaned your filter, did you actually take it apart, or just backwash it? How about water flow from the pool skimmer to your pump strainer basket? Is there air under the clear lid, or is the water flowing nicely? A low filter pressure might cause us to be concerned with either a section-side air leak or a blockage of some type. SO we want to make sure there was no chance anything got sucked into that line, and that everything is closed-up tightly, etc. Another thing ....... anything seem odd when you added the DE? I'm assuming you added it at the poolside skimmer correct? Did it dissolve well, or did anything seem strange? DE can be known to "clump-up" under the right (or wrong) circumstances. Did you place any valves back to their original position once cleaning was finished? And finally, let's not rule-out the pressure gauge to ensure it's not stuck or going bad. Does the needle change at all if you gently tap it? If you shut the system completely off, does the needle reset back to zero?
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I took the filter apart and took the grid out and clean it last week. After I put the filter back, I added DE and my psi went up to about 10psi. A few days later, I added about 2 more lbs of DE and then I notice my psi stay at 2. Today, I took my filter pump and clean the basket and the propeller, and now my psi goes back to normal at about 10psi.

However, I ran into other problem. I was trying to fix my Spa and waterfall pumps, manage to get it work but now I really did something to my control panel now my main filter pump is not starting up. Gotta do more reading and digging.
 
Ok, I think my Hayward 2100 Series Controller is really messed up after the storm last week. I'm looking to replace the controller. Anyone have any suggestion for a replacement that cost less than 1k and something that I can replace myself? I have an electrical engineer degree so I'm somewhat familiar with electrical

My pool set up

1. heater
2. filter pump
3. spa pump
4. cleaner pump
5. Waterfall pump
6. Yard light, pool light, & spa light.

I heard my coworker talk about getting a salt system, not sure what it is but he said that it makes taking care of the pool much easier
 

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I'm going to make a suggestion here. That you pay Hayward installer to install the used PLPS8 on your pool. I have no doubts you can do it yourself. But there are several reasons to punt here.

First the Hayard installation manual is here: https://www.hayward-pool.com/pdf/manuals/PLTPM-PL-PS-x&PL-PS-x-VInstallationOct08&Later.pdf And the Operating manual is here: https://www.hayward-pool.com/pdf/manuals/PLTPM-PL-PS-x&PL-PS-x-VOperationsOct08&Later.pdf

Pool equipment manufactures systems are not very installer friendly and poorly documented. Many of the most efficient ways to do things, especially in larger systems require short cuts and tricks not found in the manuals but taught at the manufacturer's seminars for their dealers. To do this you are not only going to have to figure out the wiring logic but also the programming logic for the system. I'm not saying you can't do it but I don't think it is really worth the effort.

Second, all pool systems are different. Yours with 4 pumps is especially complex. I have doubts that a picture on the wiring of someone's similar system will be that helpful unless it is fully annotated. I'm all for plagiarism. I copy every day. But because pools, even similar ones have subtle differences that can make copying ineffective.

Now, that said, I have included a copy of the manuals for this above. The manual is actually somewhat good and includes an example of a complex system. I'd study the installation manual and get a understanding of the system first. Auto control of 4 pumps and their associated functions can be complicated and wiring is often the simple part of the process.

Lets see if anyone responds with pictures but there are not that many pools with 4 pumps on that automation so I have my doubts.

I bet you could even find a guy that works for a Hayward PB to install it for you under the table for a relatively cheap price. Cash does wonderful things.

Good luck and have fun.
 
gwegan said:
I'm going to make a suggestion here. That you pay Hayward installer to install the used PLPS8 on your pool. I have no doubts you can do it yourself. But there are several reasons to punt here.

First the Hayard installation manual is here: https://www.hayward-pool.com/pdf/manuals/PLTPM-PL-PS-x&PL-PS-x-VInstallationOct08&Later.pdf And the Operating manual is here: https://www.hayward-pool.com/pdf/manuals/PLTPM-PL-PS-x&PL-PS-x-VOperationsOct08&Later.pdf

Pool equipment manufactures systems are not very installer friendly and poorly documented. Many of the most efficient ways to do things, especially in larger systems require short cuts and tricks not found in the manuals but taught at the manufacturer's seminars for their dealers. To do this you are not only going to have to figure out the wiring logic but also the programming logic for the system. I'm not saying you can't do it but I don't think it is really worth the effort.

Second, all pool systems are different. Yours with 4 pumps is especially complex. I have doubts that a picture on the wiring of someone's similar system will be that helpful unless it is fully annotated. I'm all for plagiarism. I copy every day. But because pools, even similar ones have subtle differences that can make copying ineffective.

Now, that said, I have included a copy of the manuals for this above. The manual is actually somewhat good and includes an example of a complex system. I'd study the installation manual and get a understanding of the system first. Auto control of 4 pumps and their associated functions can be complicated and wiring is often the simple part of the process.

Lets see if anyone responds with pictures but there are not that many pools with 4 pumps on that automation so I have my doubts.

I bet you could even find a guy that works for a Hayward PB to install it for you under the table for a relatively cheap price. Cash does wonderful things.

Good luck and have fun.
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I can probably get someone to do it for sure. However, I'm a control system specialist for oil and gas industry by day so I don't see why I can't get this running by myself, I rather learn how to install it and able to maintain it in case anything happen. The picture just help me understand all the terminal that I have to wire up and what to expect when I'm doing the work myself since I can't find a layout of the box
 
According to the manual, the ideal pool water "Free Chlorine 1 to 3 ppm". So if my CYA level is at 60 and my FC target is 7, isn't that high compare to the Hayward?
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Newbie, this is because the antiquated method or FC/CYA management is still in-use by some agencies. Others have just begun to acknowledge that appropriate FC levels are directly related to the current CYA. Unfortunately, there are still numerous manuals and automated systems out there that have not caught-up to what TFP learned quite a while ago. You may have to see if there is a way to override or bypass any automated issues should they arise. I'm still in the dark ages adding chlorine by hand. :)
 
just reading through:
If you did a total disassemble of your DE filter, then reassembled with a totally clean tank...you should add the exact weight of DE specified in the instructions. Poured into the skimmer fast, but not enough to clump. Some people premix the DE in a bin first to make it a slurry.

Do this, let it run, and check you PSI. That is your baseline; when the PSI gets 25% above this number, it needs a cleaning. And if you choose to backwash, you know what PSI to get back to.

Just adding DE after a full clean-out, until you get to what you think the PSI should be, is not the way to do it. The proper new/full PSI depends on pipe diameters and lengths, pump pressure, number of returns, etc.

If you don't have the manual that states the amount by weight to add at start up, we can find it online.
 
BuckeyeChris said:
just reading through:
If you did a total disassemble of your DE filter, then reassembled with a totally clean tank...you should add the exact weight of DE specified in the instructions. Poured into the skimmer fast, but not enough to clump. Some people premix the DE in a bin first to make it a slurry.

Do this, let it run, and check you PSI. That is your baseline; when the PSI gets 25% above this number, it needs a cleaning. And if you choose to backwash, you know what PSI to get back to.

Just adding DE after a full clean-out, until you get to what you think the PSI should be, is not the way to do it. The proper new/full PSI depends on pipe diameters and lengths, pump pressure, number of returns, etc.

If you don't have the manual that states the amount by weight to add at start up, we can find it online.
Click to expand...

I added 3lbs at first base on the specification of the Filter manufactured, which I think was correct. However, I was going through my previous owner supplies and equipment, I saw a note to add 6lbs so then I decided to added more but then I thought about it and stopped. I should have confident in my research and accessment base on the equipment.

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Ok, as you all know, my old controller is wacky for so my filter pump is not working for a couple days now. Before I can get a new controller installed, I was thinking to hot wire the filter pump and cleaner pump directly to my main breaker.

Since the cleaner pump needs the filter pump to work correctly, I was going to series the filter and cleaner pumps together but I wanted to double check if that should be the correct way to do it.

Anyone has any suggestion on wiring the cleaner and filter pumps directly to main house breaker?
 
Hello all,

I'm back with question regarding to chemical

My current test result
TA - 100
pH - around 8
FC - 1.5
CYA -45 -50


My CYA level drop from about 90 to 50 the last 2 months. What do I need to add to raise my CYA level up since 50 seem a bit low.
 
To raise CYA we use stabilizer. Now you say 50 is a bit low huh? You are a non-SWG pool, so I just wanted to be sure. A couple hours away from you here in SA I do run my CYA at about 60 or so, but I also get full sun on my pool all day long. My FC needs that protection. But if your pool is absolutely algae-free and you're still losing more than 4 ppm of FC each day, then a CYA increase may be warranted. Just wanted to ask. :)

On a side note..... watch that pH okay. You don't want it creeping over 7.8. In addition, your FC is extremely low at 1.5. Your target FC is 6 - NEVER below 4 ppm. You should probably raise that right away before algae tries to come back.

Remember to separate bleach and acid mixing in the water by at least 15 minutes with the pump on high.
 
60 is low if have a SWG which you do not. The bottom half of the CYA/Chlorine chart is for a SWG. The recommended range for a non SWG pool is 30-50. As TS mentioned you might need to run a little higher if you are losing a lot of chlorine but you may need to experiment while at the same time ruling out any algae.
 

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