First Test Results

[Dilbydog]

Here are my results. Everything seems to be way out of wack. Chlorine was tested twice, just to make sure the number was accurate.

FC = 43.5
CC = 1
PH = Unknown (see photo below)
TA = Unknown. Added 250 drops of reagent and never achieved a red color. Sample initially turned blue and then yellow... lighter and lighter yellow almost clear, but never red.
CH = 750
CYA = Unknown. Ran test twice and solution appeared clear, absolutely no obscuring of the dot.

I done water studies that among other things used a secchi disk to measure turbidity, and I would say there is zero turbidity in the solution.

Thanks
Dill

View attachment 72339

 

[Texas Splash]

Hey Dill! You have quite some colors going on there don't you? So let's get right to it:
1. You must have CYA. Not sure why your FC is so high (are you SLAMming?), but with no CYA to protect the pool the chlorine is extremely strong. Add some stabilizer ASAP to a minimum of 30. Let's start there with the CYA for now. Use the Poolmath Calculator!
2. Get some muriatic acid and lower the pH right away. The elevated pH, along with Vegas' hard water (high CH) increases the potential for scale. Use the Poolmath Calculator and dose in segments as to not go too low. Assume the pH is 8.2, and use enough acid for a pH target of about 7.2-7.4. Then re-check in about 30 min - 1 hr and adjust more if needed. But get that pH down to the mid-7s ASAP.
3. Unless you are doing a SLAM to remove algae, allow the FC to drop. It might take a couple days or more, but let it fall to about 12 or so. If you are running the SWG, turn it off or down a lot until things get dialed in better.
4. Your TA may be flashing different colors because the FC is so crazy high. Hold-off on TA testing until you get the other items in check.

Let's start there and address any other questions you may have or follow up with additional test numbers as things change.

 

[Dilbydog]

Thanks Texas Splash... were new pool owners, so this is the chemistry the old owner left us. No SLAM, but the pool and spa live under auto-covers. So it looks like the cover needs to be off for the next few days? The water temp was 54-55 degrees during the test. The SWG is currently set at 30%, however I didn’t think it would be functioning in these temps.

 

[mdogan]

In case, have you tested fill water and make sure reagents are good ?

I had similar situation when I was using tabs
you can reduce chlorine level via Chlorine neutralizer, i used once and they really working. If you search in forum, you can find what were advised.

I'm sure you all know; since your FC is very high how you can make sure your PH is very high or no. I think when FC is high PH test is useless.
Use chlorine neutralizer reduce FC level where it should be then you can work on PH and TA.

 

[Dilbydog]

In case, have you tested fill water and make sure reagents are good ?

I had similar situation when I was using tabs
you can reduce chlorine level via Chlorine neutralizer, i used once and they really working. If you search in forum, you can find what were advised.

I'm sure you all know; since your FC is very high how you can make sure your PH is very high or no. I think when FC is high PH test is useless.
Use chlorine neutralizer reduce FC level where it should be then you can work on PH and TA.

This was my first test with a fresh out of the box TF-100

 

[Jimrahbe]

Dill,

I would not waste anymore DPD powder, or drops, until your FC level comes down to where the CL color test is somewhat close to a yellow color.

What were you doing that added that much FC to your pool? Have you been running your SWCG? Are you adding pool store "Shock"? Are you using 3" chlorinating tablets?

It did not get that high by itself, so if we can figure out why it is so high, we can prevent it from happening again.

I would not even test the other chemicals, until the FC level gets below 10 ppm...

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Dilbydog]

Dill,

I would not waste anymore DPD powder, or drops, until your FC level comes down to where the CL color test is somewhat close to a yellow color.

What were you doing that added that much FC to your pool? Have you been running your SWCG? Are you adding pool store "Shock"? Are you using 3" chlorinating tablets?

It did not get that high by itself, so if we can figure out why it is so high, we can prevent it from happening again.

I would not even test the other chemicals, until the FC level gets below 10 ppm...

Thanks,

Jim R.

Hi Jim,
I haven’t added a chemical to the pool since we’ve purchased our home on 11/27. The previous owner left a substantial amount of chemicals: liquid chlorine, MA. He emphatically told us not to add chlorine as the SWG cell will take care of the chlorine levels. I’ve been working through some issues with the in floor cleaners and have the system up and running well mechanically. So now I’m addressing chemistry. Looks like I need to turn off the SWG.

 

[needsajet]

I think FC is high because it was covered with the SWG running. Opening it up is a great start. You can lower the chlorine with sodium thiosulfate which you can get at a pool store (probably called chlorine neutralizer).

Very high FC would have put a dent in the CYA. +1 to adding 30 ppm CYA right away.

 

[Texas Splash]

Dill, here's another thought. Rather than going out of your way to buy a product to try and lower the FC, pull the cover back first as suggested. It's highly unlikely you have algae since the water is clear and you've been running a crazy high FC level anyways. Since you have an SWG pool, the SLAM FC level is 28 (which is safe) if your CYA was at the proper recommended minimum level. We know you need to add stabilizer (CYA), and I suggested a target of 30 initially above, but why not increase the CYA level to the TFP recommended minimum for a SWG pool which is 70? Do that now, that way once you pull the cover back, the FC only needs to drop from the current ~43 to 28 to be consistent with the Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart. With a CYA of about 70, your pool (and SWG) will be in a perfect position for the summer. That won't take long at all. Does that make sense to you? If not, let me know.

So basically:
1 - Pull-back cover to let FC drop (the sun should help it do that fairly quickly); SWG should be off of course.
2 - Add stabilizer (sock soaking method) for a CYA goal of 70 (use the Poolmath Calculator); make sure you're testing the CYA correctly though so you don't go too high by mistake.
3 - Add acid to stages to lower pH from >8.2 down to about 7.4-ish.

Once you get those settled, post back with all new numbers and we can reevaluate everything else from there.

 

[Dilbydog]

Dill, here's another thought. Rather than going out of your way to buy a product to try and lower the FC, pull the cover back first as suggested. It's highly unlikely you have algae since the water is clear and you've been running a crazy high FC level anyways. Since you have an SWG pool, the SLAM FC level is 28 (which is safe) if your CYA was at the proper recommended minimum level. We know you need to add stabilizer (CYA), and I suggested a target of 30 initially above, but why not increase the CYA level to the TFP recommended minimum for a SWG pool which is 70? Do that now, that way once you pull the cover back, the FC only needs to drop from the current ~43 to 28 to be consistent with the Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart. With a CYA of about 70, your pool (and SWG) will be in a perfect position for the summer. That won't take long at all. Does that make sense to you? If not, let me know.

So basically:
1 - Pull-back cover to let FC drop (the sun should help it do that fairly quickly); SWG should be off of course.
2 - Add stabilizer (sock soaking method) for a CYA goal of 70 (use the Poolmath Calculator); make sure you're testing the CYA correctly though so you don't go too high by mistake.
3 - Add acid to stages to lower pH from >8.2 down to about 7.4-ish.

Once you get those settled, post back with all new numbers and we can reevaluate everything else from there.

Hi Pat,
Im going to run and get some stabilizer once the pool supply stores open up this morning. I do have a couple of questions:
My initial test showed 0 CYA in the pool. Is it possible that I have CYA, but the super high PH and FC are masking the levels of CYA? I only ask because I don’t want to overshoot my goal of 70.
Second, considering I’m not SLAMming why shoot for the FC goal of 28, and not 5 as shown on the chlorine / cya chart?

 

[mknauss]

Check at Home Depot for CYA. I can typically get it there for about $4 a pound (4# container).

I would put in half the CYA PoolMath calls for and wait a week to test.

Your FC will drop over the next week if you leave the pool uncovered.

Be careful reacting to your high pH readings when your FC is above 10. They are skewed to the high side.

 

[Texas Splash]

Second, considering I’m not SLAMming why shoot for the FC goal of 28, and not 5 as shown on the chlorine / cya chart?

Good question. Actually, you eventually will let it fall down to about 5. I only mentioned 28 to show that once the stabilizer is in the water, you're not too far away from a safe zone. When we see an FC of 40 or more with no stabilizer, we know the chlorine can be very harsh. But yes, you'll let it fall all the way down to the recommended range.

 

[Dilbydog]

Check at Home Depot for CYA. I can typically get it there for about $4 a pound (4# container).

I would put in half the CYA PoolMath calls for and wait a week to test.

Your FC will drop over the next week if you leave the pool uncovered.

Be careful reacting to your high pH readings when your FC is above 10. They are skewed to the high side.

I was going to bite the bullet and get some liquid stabilizer to try to get my CYA where it should be quickly. Are you recommending I stay away from adding MA until the FC drops ?

 

[mknauss]

I would not aggressively drop your pH with MA. As it seems your pH is testing very high a small amount of MA should be ok.

Again, your FC will fall quickly if you keep the pool uncovered. It is going to be sunny and in the 70's the next several days.

 

[Texas Splash]

^^ I agree ^^. I see above that I mentioned about lowering your pH, and you might need to. But I did overlook the fact that your FC was exceedingly high which does skew the pH test making it also look high. So for now, get the stabilizer in the water. If you chose to buy "liquid gold", make sure to follow the directions as that stuff can be a bit gummy and thick. I believe some instructions mention to dilute it first. If you chose the granular stabilizer route, just know that a couple years ago about a half dozen of us tested the granule method in various methods. In almost all cases, the CYA increased pretty close to the expected target within 24-48 hours based on our Poolmath calculations. So it's really up to you which to use. So as Marty said, a little acid is okay, but let the FC drop below 10 before validating the true pH reading and being sure how much acid will really be needed.

 

[mknauss]

I looked back and see your CH of 750. The caveat to all this as you will be draining this pool late this year due to CH. So you may want to consider doing it now in cool weather rather than needing to monitor your CSI very closely this summer then draining in Nov/Dec.

 

[Dilbydog]

I looked back and see your CH of 750. The caveat to all this as you will be draining this pool late this year due to CH. So you may want to consider doing it now in cool weather rather than needing to monitor your CSI very closely this summer then draining in Nov/Dec.

Thanks for the heads up Marty. The wife is pushing to just get a pool guy, and let them take care of it.... so I’m going to try to push through this season with what I have, and then drain and replace next fall / winter. You weren’t kidding about the FC dropping. Since opening up the pool at 7:00 last night, shutting down the SWG, and adding stabilization my FC is down to 26.5 and CYA is 27 ish.

 

[mknauss]

A ‘pool guy’ will not keep the pool nearly as well as you. We have a pool service to clean the pool each week and add acid as we are gone a lot. But if you are home with only short trips you can do this your self.