First test for new to me pool

[SoonerSwimmer]

Greetings all, I closed on a house in north Texas today with a 35k gallon in-ground pool with a SWG. After browsing the forums and reading through pool school I purchased a tf test kit TF-Pro Salt. The water looks clean to my untrained eye. It's certainly not something I would think twice about jumping into. I got access to the pool today and did my first series of tests with the new test kit.

My readings are as follows:

FC: 2.0
PH: 7.8 (? I'm not 100% sure I matched the colors correctly)
TA: 60
CH: 0 (Was surprised by this but the water stayed clear after the addition of 3 drops of R-0011L)
CYA: 40
SALT: 3600

In addition the SWG, which I believe is an Astral e35, is reading low salt.

From what I have learned so far I believe that I need to elevate both the CYA and the FC based on the FC/CYA chart. Is that correct? Should I shoot for the middle so something like 70-80 CYA and the associated FC of 6-10?

I'm also a bit concerned with the CH of 0. I will retest that tomorrow, but assuming that is actually 0 that needs to be addressed as well, correct?

I'm also a bit perplexed by the Salt. 3600ppm seems close to what I would expect to be good based on what I've read, but the E35 reads low salt. A look at the manual indicates its salt level range is 4000-8000 with a recommended value of 4000ppm. Is that not high? Should I be adding salt?

I plan to retest again tomorrow, but assuming consistent test values I believe I need to take some corrective actions. Does it matter what order I try to address things in? Should I deal with the salt first and then try to address CYA and CH? Should I try to address everything at once?

Thanks for all the help and great content,

SoonerSwimmer

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome to TFP and good job testing your own water. Yeah, the pH color matching messes with my eye as well. Do the best you can. FC definitely low, so I would add a couple gallons of liquid chlorine ASAP. Even though the water looks clear, you might consider doing your first Overnight Chlorine Loss Test this weekend before increasing the CYA. That way, if you do fail the OCLT and need to do a SLAM Process, you'll maintain a lower SLAM FC level to remove the organics (if there are any). But it may be best to do the OCLT to be safe.

If you are on the clear passing the OCLT, sure, increase the CYA. I'd shoot for a target of 60 for now just to ensure you get the hang of it and don't go too high. It's easier to add the remove CYA. Use the sock method to add stabilizer. If you don't know about that technique, let us know. If your cell is old or struggling, you may need to augment the FC with liquid, so just be ready.

As for the CH, zero is no good for sure. Run it again carefully tomorrow. Very odd it would be zero. Check back in with us tomorrow and we'll reevaluate.

Have a great weekend!

 

[SoonerSwimmer]

Thanks, Texas Splash. I tested again the morning around 11:15AM. We had a very sunny day yesterday afternoon and it's been overcast today.

My readings are updated with this round of tests. This mornings test were as follows:

FC 1.5 (CC 0, TC 1.5)
PH 7.8 (This is still difficult for me to judge)
TA: 60
CH: 350
CYA: 40
SALT: 3800 (It took one more drop this time.... not sure why)

It's clear to me I botched the CH test yesterday, I'm still not sure how. Salt generator still reading low. Not surprising given I added nothing. I don' know why I read 3800ppm instead of 3600ppm....

I also took a sample to the local pool store. Their tests showed.

FC: 1.46
TC: 1.59
PH: 7.8
TA: 75
CH: 239
CYA: 50
Iron: 0
Copper 0.2
Phosphates: 409 (she told me to add phosphate remover)
Salt: 3400

I don't know which tests to trust and how much variance I should expect to be reasonable given.

My plan is to add some liquid chlorine asap (likely tomorrow morning) and then do the OCLT as you suggested as soon as I have a night where I can get over there after dark and then again first thing in the morning (we are still a week out from living under that roof).

When I add liquid chlorine tomorrow should I also add some pool salt to get to try to get closer to 4000pm (recommended level for my swg) so that the low salt light goes off?

 

[Texas Splash]

I don't know which tests to trust

Yours! With the proper test kit yours 100% of the time. Get that liquid chlorine in there right away. The FC should never be below 2-3 ppm. Forget generic pool store recommendations. With a CYA of 40, go to the FC/CYA Levels and you'll see what I mean. As water temps increase, any FC below 3 runs the risk of starting algae, then it's a whole different ball game.

As for salt, no. Don't add any. The salt reading can be a little tricky, but it sounds like you're in the 3600 - 3800 range which should be fine. What may be happening is either your cell has scale and needs to be cleaned, or it's reaching the end of its service life.

 

[Texas Splash]

When you begin the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test this evening, be sure to review that page for guidance. Key things like turning off the SWG and getting your first test after the sun has dropped and at least 30 min after your final chlorine dosage for the day. In fact, if it were me, I'd increase the FC to around 6-8 ppm this evening. I have no doubt your water needs it. Get a good (first) OCLT reading tonight, then test again with SWG off early before the sun hits the water tomorrow morning. Let's see how it goes.

 

[SoonerSwimmer]

Making progress I think.

I added 1.2 Gallons of 10% liquid chlorine I got from the local big box store. I did this yesterday (first thing Sunday morning) with a goal of getting to 5ppm. Why 5ppm, mostly because it looked in the range of both SWG and liquid cholorine in the table for my CYA level, and I missed your second reply ....

Last night (Sunday night) I started the OCLT. I turned off the SWG and ran the pumps for 60 minutes. I measured 5.0 FC (0 CC). This morning (Monday morning) before sunrise I went back over and confirmed the SWG was still off. I ran the pumps for 30 minutes and again measured 5.0 FC (0 CC).

It's worth noting we got quite a bit of rain during the day yesterday (Sunday) and a much smaller amount over night (into Monday morning). I sampled from about 18 inches below the water line near a return both times. From what I read that should be fine for the OCLT test.

I think that means I passed the OCLT.

I'm not 100% sure of what is next. I assume I need to figure out how to get my SWG to produce more chlorine and keep that value up (according to the tables) using liquid chlorine for the time being?

 

[Texas Splash]

I think that means I passed the OCLT.

Yes!

 

[Texas Splash]

Now that you confirmed the water is algae-free, you can increase the CYA. A higher CYA level of about 70 helps to preserve the FC created by your SWG. It helps the cell work more efficiently. So I would do that now by adding the required amount of stabilizer to get the CYA up to 70. If you are reluctant to go that high at first, you can do 60 to ensure you don't over-shoot your target. You can always add more stabilizer later. Use the sock-soaking method to do the stabilizer. If you aren't sure how to do that, let us know.

Once the CYA is increased, keep an eye on the FC. Do not let it fall below the 3 ppm mark. Best to keep the FC somewhere in the 5-7 range actually, but always refer to the FC/CYA Levels to be sure. Keep some liquid chlorine on-hand in case the cell struggles and you need to increase the FC quickly to avoid algae. If the FC continues to fall after passing the OCLT and increasing the CYA, we'll talk more about cell specifically.

 

[SoonerSwimmer]

Thank you! I just reread the CYA - Further Reading page. I will work to elevate my CYA level. I'm a bit nervous about overshooting especially given that it's so much harder to decrease than increase, and that I had such a different reading for the value from the local pool store. My plan is to retest my CYA level and then add enough chemical to get that value up to 60.

Based on pool math, it sounds like getting my 35k gallon pool from 40-60 will require about 5lbs 13oz of dry stabilizer. I'll plan to put it in a sock in the skimmer with the pump running. I suspect it's going to take quite a few sock fulls to get the full amount in.

Is the best (only?) place I'm likely to find dry CYA at the local pool store? It looks like they sell it as "Chlorine Stabilizer Water Conditioner" in 4lbs buckets that is 99% CYA and 1% "other ingredients" for about 30$.

I really appreciate the help. This is all foreign and new to me but you're helping me to learn quite a bit. I'm already feeling more comfortable with my test kit.

 

[Texas Splash]

Is the best (only?) place I'm likely to find dry CYA at the local pool store?

I get mine at Walmart or Home Depot. Lowe's should have it too. Or you can order it online.

Once you add the required amount to a tube sock, let it soak for about 30 minutes. After that, take the sock over to the returns jets and just start squeezing it. All the "mush" should come out in about 5 minutes with vigorous squeezing. Easy stuff that works really well.

Trust YOUR testing from now own. No need to try and validate at the pool store. Their testing and advice will only drive you nuts.

 

[Texas Splash]

By the way, your signature is still blank. Ha. Don't get the signature confused with your basic profile info that is seen under the avatar. Take a look at my signature under each of my posts. If you don't see it and you're on a portable device, turn the device sideways and you'll see my signature. Yours is currently blank under each post.

To update your signature, see this article. It will help tremendously in the future with posts and replies.

Create Your Signature - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[SoonerSwimmer]

Sig should be updated based on what I know to be true now.

I'm working on raising my CYA one sock-full at a time (petrified of overshooting). My tests from this morning have that up to 50, shooting for 6 and expect that to be another 4 ish lbs.

I'm also learning I have to stay vigilant to keep the FC levels up. I don't have a long record to look at, but right now I seem to be losing 1.5ppm in FC per sunny day. It's been sunny the last two days in the DFW area. I know there are a lot of factors but does that sound possible given my OCLT didn't show any loss?

I'm pretty sure my swg is no longer producing anything. When I turned it back on after the OCLT the power light came on, it no longer shows any other lights, and whereas before the output indicators showed 80% output production, now none of the output indicators are lighted and the output up/down arrows do nothing. The low salt light is no longer on. Only the power indicator is on. I see water flowing through it. I have no idea how to troubleshoot this thing. It looks ancient, I have no idea if it's tied into the automation, etc. I'm going to stay vigilant about adding liquid chlorine at night for now...

Ninja Edit: My SWG is an Astral E35 but I think it's an older version with just indicator lights, no lcd screen.

 

[Texas Splash]

does that sound possible

Yes. As the water warms up we can lose anywhere from 2 - 4 ppm of FC per day. Since you passed the OCLT, now you can monitor FC each day to keep it in a good place.. Consider your pool as a non-salt pool now since the SWG seems to be out of commission. Use the non-salt selection on the FC/CYA Levels. Summertime it's easy to require a CYA of 50-60 in TX.