Fighting mustard algae

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stxpoolgirl

Active member
Oct 2, 2021
36
San antonio tx
Pool Size
8200
Surface
Vinyl
Hi, I have been fighting mustard algae for at least 6 weeks. I tried the slam and mustard algae protocol from here and got it clear for a few days. Then before reading, I tried the yellow-gone. Ammonia based. Got it blue and semi clear. Then back to super yellow. Used yellow gone again, super chlorinated. Soaked all the stuff while chlorine was high. Brushed. It was blue and smi clear again. Was moving the ladder to brush and green nasty water was pouring out. I took the ladder out, need to deep clean. I have been slamming for last 3 days, test morning and night, keeping or adding chlorine to FC of 12. I got to a nice blue but then it went back to green tinge.

Current test at 11am:
Cya 30
FC 5.5(added to get back to 12)
Cc .5
Ta 100
PH 7.4

Overnight, I lost 0 chlorine and cc has been .5 since yesterday morning. Pool is cloudy and slight green tinge.

What are my next steps? This is killing my "cheap, easy trouble free pool" budget and my fun.
 
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Yellow gone adds ammonia and that is never a good thing in our pools. Just another pool industry gimmick that claims to do miracles but only makes things worse. When people get ammonia in their water, it can eat stabilizer and a LOT chlorine. You're at a point now with a relatively small pool where you may need to decide if it's worth adding lots of chlorine to maintain the proper SLAM level consistently, or just exchanging some water now to reduce the ammonia and residual effects of the Yellow Gone.

Whichever way you decide, it's critical to maintain the proper FC level. If your CYA is indeed 30, the magic FC number is 12 until you pass all 3 SLAM criteria. You mentioned a ladder, so that definitely needs to be out. Follow the SLAM Process closely and you should do well.
 
Texas Splash said:
Whichever way you decide, it's critical to maintain the proper FC level. If your CYA is indeed 30, the magic FC number is 12 until you pass all 3 SLAM criteria. You mentioned a ladder, so that definitely needs to be out. Follow the SLAM Process closely and you should do well.
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I agree but high dose for mustard algae is 60% of the CYA, so not 12, 12 is only for SLAM, 18 is for MA.
 
koffey said:
I agree but high dose for mustard algae is 60% of the CYA, so not 12, 12 is only for SLAM, 18 is for MA.
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Yeah, I'm not even concerned about MA at this point. The ammonia creates a new issue, so once the OP makes a decision on whether or not to exchange some water, first perform the regular SLAM. Pass all 3 SLAM criteria, then if they wish, increase the FC to the MA level for only 24 hrs.
 
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What stands out to me is the morning & night testing & dosing. Only replenishing slam level 2x’s a day will really drag the whole thing out. The more frequently you can test & replenish fc to SLAM Process level the faster things will go. This is especially important at first when the fc demand is great. Every couple of hours if at all possible but at least 4x’s a day at 1st until fc starts holding better.
I hate you wasted money on yellow gone which in turn causes more $$ to be spent on liquid chlorine so really not that helpful just expensive 😩.
But, That ship has sailed & lesson learned.
Keep with slam, then after passing all 3 end of slam criteria raise to ma slam level for 24 hrs. Also, Afterwards you may want to maintain at least MA minimum for a while to prevent reoccurrence.

Chlorine/CYA Chart

EDIT: You will find a simplified and standardized version of this chart at Pool School, Chlorine / CYA Chart. Chlorine/CYA Chart by Chemgeek FC = Free Chlorine in parts-per-million (ppm) CYA = Cyanuric Acid in parts-per-million (ppm) CYA ........... Min FC3 ..... Target FC ...... Yel/Mstrd...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
While slamming 👇
*Check & scrub every nook & cranny where algae may hide (light niches, steps, drain covers, ladder handrails, skimmer throats/weirs, etc.)
*Run slam level water through all water features & lines for at least a couple hours a day during the SLAM Process.
*Brush & or vac daily (this breaks up biofilms that algae uses to protect itself from chlorine)
*Backwash/clean filter when pressure rises 25%over clean pressure.
 
Texas Splash said:
Yellow gone adds ammonia and that is never a good thing in our pools. Just another pool industry gimmick that claims to do miracles but only makes things worse. When people get ammonia in their water, it can eat stabilizer and a LOT chlorine. You're at a point now with a relatively small pool where you may need to decide if it's worth adding lots of chlorine to maintain the proper SLAM level consistently, or just exchanging some water now to reduce the ammonia and residual effects of the Yellow Gone.

Whichever way you decide, it's critical to maintain the proper FC level. If your CYA is indeed 30, the magic FC number is 12 until you pass all 3 SLAM criteria. You mentioned a ladder, so that definitely needs to be out. Follow the SLAM Process closely and you should do well.
Click to expand...
Yeah. Live and learn right? I've spent so much already trying to clear this up, with and without the yellow gone.

The ladder is a big issue. I do not know how to get it truly clean, and it is 100% the problem. I attached a photo of the treads. There is no way the little holes are enough for good water flow. And how do I clean the inside??
 

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stxpoolgirl said:
Yeah. Live and learn right? I've spent so much already trying to clear this up, with and without the yellow gone.

The ladder is a big issue. I do not know how to get it truly clean, and it is 100% the problem. I attached a photo of the treads. There is no way the little holes are enough for good water flow. And how do I clean the inside??
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Can you just seal it completely ? Those kind of step don’t really have any where good to add extra holes. If it makes it float just add some sealed weights.
 
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I swear it is getting worse, not better. I have been testing and adding chlorine to get back to 12 at least 4 times a day. Brushing 2x a day. Cc is 0.
It was 98 in TX and we can't swim.
 

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I can’t tell about the clarity from your picture. Is it still very cloudy also? City water can contain iron too. Have you ever used any copper containing algaecides or any products with “blue” in the name like xtra blue chlorine products/ green to blue?
 
Mdragger88 said:
I can’t tell about the clarity from your picture. Is it still very cloudy also? City water can contain iron too. Have you ever used any copper containing algaecides or any products with “blue” in the name like xtra blue chlorine products/ green to blue?
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Yes it is cloudy as well. Never used algeacides or blue products. It was beautiful and crystal clear until right after july 4th. I got it clear again in early August and since mid August I have been fighting this.
 
Good to hear about no blue stuff/algaecides👍🏻
You’re likely at the POP level- Pool Owner Patience. The SLAM Process takes some time even when testing & dosing frequently. Keep at it.
Taking a pic in the same spot daily with a pole or something in the water can help you tell more about clarity improvement over time.
Let’s check some basics-
Are you certain of your cya level?
Remember, if it reads inbetween you always round up & chlorinate accordingly.
Also,
What test kit do you have & what kind of filter? Are you cleaning/backwashing it when pressure rises 25% over clean pressure?
Adding all your equipment & kit info to your signature really helps get you detailed to you advice.

Create Your Signature - Further Reading

www.google.com www.google.com
Also if you are using PoolMath logs you can switch on sharing in the settings so we can see them by clicking on your profile. It can help us get an idea of fc loss between doses. You can click on my profile to see my logs as an example.
If you have any polyfill you can put it in the skimmer to see if you might catch any iron. It’s a cheap & easy way to determine if that may be part of the vivid green.
 
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Ok, it's gotta be iron or something. Yesterday due to scheduling and frustration, I didnt add chlorine. It was 12 fc and 0 cc at 9am. It was 7.5 fc last night. This morning the fc was 7!!!
0 cc
7.2 pH

I will attach a photo. It is still cloudy but not as bright green. Cannot see to the bottom.
Taylor k-2006
Sand filter, one speed pump
Yes backwashing as needed.
 

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Continue w/ slam because it is still cloudy.
Have you tried the polyfill(stuffing) in the skimmer? That should capture any iron if that is the cause for the vivid green so long as you remain at slam level so the iron stays in precipitation.

Iron Fill Water Filter - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 

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