Exploding pool!!!

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Budman said:
I believe the SWGs are reversed as to which pump is running.
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It still takes a little bad luck/mechanical failure beyond that to fully explain what is happening. But that is enough to defeat some of the safety interlocks and makes it far more likely that explosive gas does accumulate. Add in the actual explosion, which more or less proves that the remaining safety interlocks failed, and I think we have finally figured it out.
 
So it's a wiring problem and not a programming problem?
Fortunately the electric cords are long enough I can swap them around.

Since I always saw them both on, I never thought it would cause a problem.

Thank you all for helping me out. It was everyone's ideas that helped me sort out the problem.
:cheers:
 
You should fix it from a wiring standpoint and not just swap the cords. Unless you are talking about the power cords to the boxes not the cell cords. Down the road, if someone(pool guy) saw the cell cords crossed, he may swap them back thinking they were mistakenly crossed to begin with.

Did that make sense? :hammer:
 
Pool Clown said:
But say the cell was coming on without the pump on, how do you get around the flow switch? I mean, i get the theory here, it is possible, but something (else) has to be malfunctioning more than just the swapped cords.
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Yes, clearly there is a secondary malfunction of some kind. Presumably the flow switch is broken in the cell on the plumbing that has been having problems. Switching the cables will stop the problems, but to restore the full set of safety interlocks it seems like that cell should be replaced.
 
Pool Clown said:
You should fix it from a wiring standpoint and not just swap the cords. Unless you are talking about the power cords to the boxes not the cell cords. Down the road, if someone(pool guy) saw the cell cords crossed, he may swap them back thinking they were mistakenly crossed to begin with.

Did that make sense? :hammer:
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I switched the cords coming out of the cell itself, nothing involving the wiring or boxes.
I think I need to have a discussion again with the pool builder.
I can't keep paying for his mistakes everytime there's a problem.
 

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Budman said:
The flow light goes from red to green as soon as it comes on before water is flowing. The pump didn't even turn on yet.
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That is a problem, i wouldn't run those till it is fixed. You need to get Pentair factory service out there to sort it all out, and find out what is, and isn't working right. Or drape all the equipment in a kevlar blanket.

You decide...
 
Where'd everyone go?
Was great talking with everyone and glad to get things worked out.

For now the cables are switched until I talk things over with pool builder.

Found the flow switch tab was too close together. I just made it the same distance apart as the good generator and all is good there too.

I owe everyone a beer, stop on by.
:cheers:
 
Budman said:
Where'd everyone go?
Was great talking with everyone and glad to get things worked out.

For now the cables are switched until I talk things over with pool builder.

Found the flow switch tab was too close together. I just made it the same distance apart as the good generator and all is good there too.

I owe everyone a beer, stop on by.
:cheers:
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That is good news, but I don't understand the flow switch fix. If it was indicating flow without the pump on, how did moving it fix it?

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Some flow switch models have a paddle on it with a magnet attached and the flow against it causes the paddle to move the magnet toward the target and that closes the switch. If the paddle gets bent to where it touches (or almost touches) the target the switch see's it as closed and assumes flow. Moving (or bending) the paddle a little away from the target opens the switch and allows the flow switch to work correctly. See this topic for a picture of one.
 
Bama Rambler said:
Some flow switch models have a paddle on it with a magnet attached and the flow against it causes the paddle to move the magnet toward the target and that closes the switch. If the paddle gets bent to where it touches (or almost touches) the target the switch see's it as closed and assumes flow. Moving (or bending) the paddle a little away from the target opens the switch and allows the flow switch to work correctly. See this topic for a picture of one.
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Yes, that's what it is. The first metal tab is very thin and bends easily. They were both touching so a slight bend moved them apart and working correctly now.
Sure was a much less expensive repair than buying a new generator.
 
Where's the lightbulb emoticon when you need it! I thought something like that was involved but I wasn't intimately familiar with how they did the flow sensors - seems a system that is not as fullproof as a purely mechanical lever - but the lever type switch is probably a lot less sensitive and subject to failure to detect lower flow rates.
 
I'll have to pay closer attention to things, hopefully before anything goes wrong.
This was one of those things that you assume is OK since you look and all the lights are green so you're good to go.
The light is red for a split second when it comes on and then changed to green, but no water was flowing yet.
But I never thought of checking it as a safety device as JasonLion suggested.
Good learning experience and nobody got hurt considering what happened.
 
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