Electric pool heater blows up my fuses
- Thread starter Wham26
- Start date
It's a heat pump. What is the fuse rating in amps?
Can you test volts and amps at the heat pump?
What is the wire size and length going from the supply to the heat pump?
Can you test volts and amps at the heat pump?
What is the wire size and length going from the supply to the heat pump?
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That is a heat pump.
More here on what to put in your signature and how to do it, Pool School - Read This BEFORE You Post
We are all volunteers here spending our time trying to help people like you, please help us be more efficient.
That is a heat pump.
Hi james its 2 30amps fuses and the wire is 20/13
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Ok im trying to make it new on here and cant figure out how to do it sorry for the inconviniente
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Is your pump on the same fuse? If you can make sure the heater is on its own fuse. Sounds like you are exceeding the amperage rating of the fuse.
- May 3, 2007
- 17,392
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
If the unit is low on refrigerant, it can overheat the compressor and trip the circuit. Also, if the compressor is going out, it can also trip the circuit.
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- May 3, 2007
- 17,392
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
You need a refrigerant test kit, which are not cheap but you might be able to rent one, and you also need to know how to use it. Otherwise, you will need to get a technician to come in and test the unit for you which might be a better option.
It is quite possible the guy who sold this to you knew that it had a slow leak and was hoping you would not find it until much later.
It is quite possible the guy who sold this to you knew that it had a slow leak and was hoping you would not find it until much later.
Ok so it is running like an ac ???will call a trchnician i think it will be best
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Also ubthink if that would be empty it would blow the fuses in the basemenr
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Literally, there is probably a hundred things that could be causing your problem. This is a heat pump so it works basically like an air conditioner in reverse. Problem could be something simple or a major component failure.
Common thing that can happen is a popped capacitor. This should be a small canister in under the electrical cover. You should have both a relay and a capacitor. Sometimes the capacitor can bulge or even actually pop and dead short the wires. The capacitor stores and supplies and extra burst of voltage to start the motors. With a failed capacitor you may only hear the unit hum, never actually come up to speed, then it may burn the fuse or trip the breaker. This can be bad on the motors to sit there humming and heating up.
A loose wire or poor connection on the relay or anywhere else can overheat and burn the wire off. Sometimes when that happens the wire will come loose move over against something and short out. This usually instantly blows the fuse. The worst thing is often the wires to the compressor. These are a push on type of connection that can get loose and fail over time due to heat, vibration and amp draw. There is a repair kit that uses much more robust clamping screws instead of the push on terminals. Unfortunately sometimes when these connectors fail it damages the terminals on the compressor and there is no way to fix them. It can sometimes mean the end of life for the compressor. In this case it may be cheaper to replace the entire unit.
You could have a shorted fan motor, or a shorted compressor, the fan motor can be replaced but the compressor would be a major failure.
All this could hinge on the installation too. Was it professionally wired? If you have incorrect wiring, maybe the unit is too far from the power source or connected using too small of wires creating a large voltage drop it could cause overheating of the wiring and lead to failure literally anywhere. This would be very hard to diagnose without actually seeing the unit.
I have no idea what 20/13 wire is, that is not a familiar wiring gauge.
I would suggest calling an HVAC tech, they should be able to help you out.
Common thing that can happen is a popped capacitor. This should be a small canister in under the electrical cover. You should have both a relay and a capacitor. Sometimes the capacitor can bulge or even actually pop and dead short the wires. The capacitor stores and supplies and extra burst of voltage to start the motors. With a failed capacitor you may only hear the unit hum, never actually come up to speed, then it may burn the fuse or trip the breaker. This can be bad on the motors to sit there humming and heating up.
A loose wire or poor connection on the relay or anywhere else can overheat and burn the wire off. Sometimes when that happens the wire will come loose move over against something and short out. This usually instantly blows the fuse. The worst thing is often the wires to the compressor. These are a push on type of connection that can get loose and fail over time due to heat, vibration and amp draw. There is a repair kit that uses much more robust clamping screws instead of the push on terminals. Unfortunately sometimes when these connectors fail it damages the terminals on the compressor and there is no way to fix them. It can sometimes mean the end of life for the compressor. In this case it may be cheaper to replace the entire unit.
You could have a shorted fan motor, or a shorted compressor, the fan motor can be replaced but the compressor would be a major failure.
All this could hinge on the installation too. Was it professionally wired? If you have incorrect wiring, maybe the unit is too far from the power source or connected using too small of wires creating a large voltage drop it could cause overheating of the wiring and lead to failure literally anywhere. This would be very hard to diagnose without actually seeing the unit.
I have no idea what 20/13 wire is, that is not a familiar wiring gauge.
I would suggest calling an HVAC tech, they should be able to help you out.
Ok so really we should call and electrician on our unit...but still dont know if its dead on us
What would u suggest just give out and by a new one we have no clue on what to do any suggestion ???? Anyone??
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I would call an HVAC tech, they will have more working knowledge and troubleshooting ability of the unit than an electrician. They should be able to make most repairs as well as be able to determine if the unit is getting correct power to it. I would wait for their diagnosis before deciding on replacement
Be aware this unit uses R-22 which is in the process of being phased out. You can still get it if needed but it comes with a bigger price tag. By 2020 R22 will no longer be produced. If you buy a new unit make sure you get something that uses a modern refrigerant like R-410A. Doubtful any are being built with R22 anymore but there may be a few sitting around in warehouses at a special price. In the future servicing them may become even more difficult.
Be aware this unit uses R-22 which is in the process of being phased out. You can still get it if needed but it comes with a bigger price tag. By 2020 R22 will no longer be produced. If you buy a new unit make sure you get something that uses a modern refrigerant like R-410A. Doubtful any are being built with R22 anymore but there may be a few sitting around in warehouses at a special price. In the future servicing them may become even more difficult.
Ok thanks...we really dont understand it was working perfectly great until i closed it because we had a heavy rain pour coming in and didnt want it to get it by storms or anything
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Ok my hubby unplug the wiring that connects to the compressor to see if it was the compressor on the unit now waiting if it will blow up again.....if it doesn blow up i guess its the coolant that is out
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