Draining and bringing down the waterline?

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@Lake Placid
Thanks for the detailed explanation. A few questions before I start

After the diagnostics turn off the cell, unplug it and do not run it until you have replaced the flow switch with a new one.
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Does this not mean that I should have a flow switch handy to replace to begin with, the reason I ask this is that it might take some time to get the flow switch itself I assume.

1. Separately does the initial diagnosis require unplugging the cell itself? It doesn't look like it from your explanation.
2. If indeed the flow switch is the problem, would replacing it mean I have to unplug and re-install the SWCG. I don't think I'm as comfortable with the plumbing part of the installation (I'm ok with stripping wires etc., but I don't have any wrenches etc. if required for installing the swcg itself).
 
tsar said:
@Lake Placid
Thanks for the detailed explanation. A few questions before I start


Does this not mean that I should have a flow switch handy to replace to begin with, the reason I ask this is that it might take some time to get the flow switch itself I assume.
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A genuine pentair flow switch retails for around $200 and is in stock at most internet vendors. I think you can find them cheaper on Amazon but I’m not sure if they will be a knock off or the pentair part. It seems the genuine parts have a better reliability rate. At any rate the reason to not have one on hand before replacing the switch is to save the money in the event the cell turns out to be dead and not the switch. It’s your call though if you want to have it on hand before diagnosing.
tsar said:
1. Separately does the initial diagnosis require unplugging the cell itself? It doesn't look like it from your explanation.
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Do all work with the cell powered off/unplugged. Just good safety practice.
tsar said:
2. If indeed the flow switch is the problem, would replacing it mean I have to unplug and re-install the SWCG. I don't think I'm as comfortable with the plumbing part of the installation (I'm ok with stripping wires etc., but I don't have any wrenches etc. if required for installing the swcg itself).
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If the flow switch is the issue, you’ll just cut the remaining wires, unscrew the old flow switch from the port it’s in, screw in the new one and connect the wires. No need to remove the cell from where it’s plumbed. You will need a crescent wrench to remove the switch and there are a couple of nuances when installing the new switch, but nothing too difficult.
 
tsar said:
I don't seem to have a separate tripper or on/off switch for the SWCG cell. When you say "unplug it" I assume you mean to unplug the electric connection for the cell?
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Yes, unplug the cell from its power supply. It runs back to a transformer box. The cable at the transformer will twist 1/4 - 1/2 turn and slide out.

tsar said:
So technically after testing I should keep the pump off in this scenario?
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No you’ll still want to circulate water, just leave the cell unplugged so it cannot operate.
 
tsar said:
ok and this is the correct flow switch to buy if incase that's the problem? https://www.amazon.com/Pentair-520736-Replacement-Sanitizer-Automation/dp/B007OGUBLQ/ref=sr_1_1?crid=NWTEER999YKJ&keywords=pentair+flow+switch&qid=1661105105&refinements=p_89:pentair&rnid=2528832011&s=lawn-garden&sprefix=pentair+flow+switch,lawngarden,102&sr=1-1
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It appears to be a correct 3 wire switch. Not sure if it’s an oem replacement switch….hard to tell from the description.

It would be good to know if you have a 3 wire or 4 wire switch on your cell, either by mfr date confirmation or physical inspection if the # of wires.
 
tsar said:
@Lake Placid i did what you mentioned, after stripping and joining the red/black wires. The flow light is green, but the top salt level lights are still flashing red and green


Disconnected afterwards, so the swcg doesnt get any power now.
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How long did you let it run after restarting while the lights were flashing? That behavior lasts for 2 minutes when you startup the cell.
 
tsar said:
@Lake Placid yep u are right. It finally stopped oscillating and went to red.

This would mean i basically need to replace the flow switch. It had 4 wires btw- red, black, white, green
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What went to red? The low salt light? We know the flow switch is bad. You can use either the newer 3 wire or older 4 wire flow switch as a replacement.
 

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I didn’t see anything on prime delivery. The one you posted seems to be the best bet for both shipping time and being genuine.
 
Check the direction of the flow switch. On the Oem switches there’s a gray triangle that should point in the direction of flow. On yours it doesn’t look like a triangle but I’m guessing that needs to be where the blue mark is in my picture.

what do the directions that came with the switch tell you about the position of that mark? A6FB70A4-A722-44A2-8D3A-CE429895897E.jpeg
 
@Lake Placid so the arrows on the left and right point in the direction of the flow. The tab at the bottom that you have highlighted is not an arrow it is to ensure that the flow switch is centered (at least according to the instructions). Also, the flow switch is now so tight that when i tried to change the direction it keeps stripping the plastic :( .
 
Don’t tighten the switch anymore….you don’t want to crack the housing or cause leaking. It appears the switch is oriented correctly. How many wires was the new switch? Is there a mfr date listed on the new switch anywhere?
 
Double check your connections. Look on the back side (clear side) of the connectors Are the wires fully seated in their connectors? Are the buttons on the connectors fully depressed and piercing both wires in the connectors? 4 wire switch to 4 wire cell shouldn’t have any compatibility concerns.

Have you verified your flow in the pool at the returns feels strong like normal and nothing is actually slowing the flow low enough to not allow the switch to fully close?
 

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