DIY Pool Project

[Guest]

Re: VOLLEYBALL NET ROPE ANCHOR THING

I forgot to have this put in when they did the shotcrete. Can I chissel out some of the shotcrete and epoxy, or cement this in so they can plaster around it? What should I use?

Yup. Usually the plasterers install them though. If you make the hole they should be able to install it for you. You run the risk of having it "out of elevation" if you do it.

You sure you want it? Great place for algae to grow......

 

[n8huntsman]

Yeah, just one though on the raised bond beam side. On the near side I can use a weighted pole. The upper rope for the bond beam side can go to the backside of the beam to a eyebolt. But I need something for the lower rope on the bond beam side. So it's not normal for the shotcrete guys to install it? I was thinking that it could crack the plaster if it wasnt fastened to the shell.

 

[Guest]

Gunite guys do not install them.. Plasterers do. Gunite guys will give you a hole if you (remember to!) ask them!

 

[n8huntsman]

.

 

[n8huntsman]

Started the stone this weekend.

 

[n8huntsman]

What's the typical spillway dimensions? They left it kinda wide so that I can choose the size. I'm worried that I wont have enough flow if I make it too wide. Should I use flagstone on the bottom of it to clear the stone and create the lip? Or are there any other creative ideas to make it look good?

 

[Guest]

18". I would use a complementary tile that is easy to clean and will not flake off like stone will.

Did you float and waterproof the RBB before you set up the cultured stone?

 

[n8huntsman]

I wanted to use tile too but can't think of how to make the lip to keep the water off the face of the stacked stone wall.
By the time I got your message, it was too late. I called the mfg. of the stone. They said it would be okay without a scratch coat as long as I was using a polymer modified, water repellant mortar, which I did. So I hope it will be okay.

 

[Guest]

Try and find a surface bullnose tile that you can live with and will extend slightly (1/4" or so) over the top of the "stone". That will allow you to keep what hits the "stone" at a minimum, and would give you a clean spillover.

 

[n8huntsman]

Seems like the tile would snap off if I extend it 1/4" as soon as someone puts there hands on the spillway and does a pull-up to look into the spa. No?

 

[Guest]

No.

I have to write more now as I cannot post less than 10 letters.......... :-D

 

[n8huntsman]

Here's a better pic of the stone work.

 

[n8huntsman]

Any specific type of grout? Lowes has some stuff that they claim never needs to be sealed. It's pricey and it's "sanded." Not sure if sanded is good for pools and thin grout lines.

 

[Guest]

Any specific type of grout? Lowes has some stuff that they claim never needs to be sealed. It's pricey and it's "sanded." Not sure if sanded is good for pools and thin grout lines.

I use sanded. Grout (sanded or un-sanded) will state on the bag how wide of a grout joint it will be good for. Some people prefer un-sanded, so it is just preference at some point as well. Sealing it is not a bad idea either, no matter what Lowe's tells you

 

[luna31d]

I see a lot of "beverage" debris :lol:

Most OB I have seen contract out most of the work, seems like you are doing some of it yourself.

 

[duraleigh]

That's that darn dog!! N8 just can't keep him out of the Miller Lite.

 

[n8huntsman]

Plaster is going in friday so I need to figure out the start-up procedure. For a medium gray plaster, what will work best for me? Traditional or acid start-up?

 

[Guest]

Why are you doing the start up? The plaster company should be doing that (and then they take responsibility for the water being balanced. You will be responsible for maintaining the proper water chemistry from that point forward.). I would suggest that they do the start up the way they typically do, and then you take it from there. You've obviously learned plenty here to take the ball and run with it

 

[n8huntsman]

Oh. I'll make sure they are doing it then. So do they typically come back after the pool is full to add chemicals and balance it? I would assume that they can't do it on day one when there is barely any water. Also, let me make sure I've got this straight;
How long till I can:
- Swim
- Run the heater
- Use the waterfalls
- Use the Automatic Pool Cleaner

 

[Guest]

Oh. I'll make sure they are doing it then. So do they typically come back after the pool is full to add chemicals and balance it? I would assume that they can't do it on day one when there is barely any water. Also, let me make sure I've got this straight;
How long till I can:
- Swim
- Run the heater
- Use the waterfalls
- Use the Automatic Pool Cleaner

They will typically come back the day after it is full, sometimes the second day. They like to get back as soon as possible for colored plaster (around here) to try to minimize the mottling. Usually they will add some CYA, then go away and come back the next day/two and add chlorine/acid. Once they are balanced it is all yours!

You can swim in a couple of days on fresh plaster, but try not to push off or spend alot of time on the plaster itself. Swimming is fine, but the plaster will be "soft" for a while so if you can be patient for a week on too much contact you will be fine.

Don't turn the heater on for a week. The waterfalls can be used right away (remember that they will raise pH and the new plaster will be doing that already! Keep an eye on that and adjust.). Don't put the pool cleaner in for a month!

Lastly (and I know you didn't ask!); brush, brush, brush! The more you brush, the smoother it will get. Pay particular attention to the steps and benches. Brush for a good week or two! It will pay off!

Don't forget the pictures (you can't stop now!)!