DIY Opening for the first time

[stoles]

Hey, all. Coming back here in preparation for opening our pool in the next week if possible. You all help me quite a bit last year at closing even though we didn't do it ourselves. We had some issues with the people who did close.
Everyone highly recommended coming back this spring and posting all of our info to get some guidance on opening.

We have an auto cover, fiberglass pool, sand filter, salt chlorinator, (the cell needs to be cleaned badly) also a gas heater, and a (joke of a) waterfall feature. Also the in line sacrificial anode needs to be cleaned or replaced badly.

I can share pics in a few, but what is the best place to get started? What might I need to purchase to have on hand? Any advice on the anode or salt cell?

No response is too detailed. I learned a LOT about maintenance last year but nothing about opening. Clearly we have to remove antifreeze and connect all the in pool parts. I'm more unclear about what to do on the equipment side of things though. Is there a step by step list that I can use to start with and then customize to our pool?

Also "fun," we struggled with yellow algae all summer last year, I assume because of our inept pool builder who shut our pool down with the auto cover closed in January, only half cleaning it, after letting it look like a toxic waste pit over the fall. I spent the entire summer after opening doing everything recommended herr to get rid of it. 2+ week process just to think I'm done and then see it come back again. I have a strong feeling the underside of the cover might be harboring something I can't get to. But also the pool guy scratched up the fiberglass significantly while getting gravel out that they dumped in there And it seems like some of the scratches are where the yellow algae always starts forming again. I spent countless hours scrubbing with no real success.

 

[Texas Splash]

It sounds as if you have some items that need attention but don't' really apply to the opening process itself, so for now let's focus on the opening. Start with the link below. It lists just about everything you need to know. Be sure to find all of your return jet fittings, plugs, etc. so they can be reinstalled. Once you have the water level back to where it needs to be and the system up & running, grab a water sample and begin to adjust your chemicals. If you have algae you'll want to bet focused on doing a SLAM Process thoroughly and completely until you pass all 3 SLAM criteria.

After that, we can come back to things like the anode, heater condition, and cleaning the salt cell. Let us know if you have any questions.

Opening your pool- An easy to follow guide

Opening your pool can be stressful. This Pool Start Up guide teaches everything from start-up chemicals, covers, and more for your start up.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[stoles]

It sounds as if you have some items that need attention but don't' really apply to the opening process itself, so for now let's focus on the opening. Start with the link below. It lists just about everything you need to know. Be sure to find all of your return jet fittings, plugs, etc. so they can be reinstalled. Once you have the water level back to where it needs to be and the system up & running, grab a water sample and begin to adjust your chemicals. If you have algae you'll want to bet focused on doing a SLAM Process thoroughly and completely until you pass all 3 SLAM criteria.

After that, we can come back to things like the anode, heater condition, and cleaning the salt cell. Let us know if you have any questions.

Opening your pool- An easy to follow guide

Opening your pool can be stressful. This Pool Start Up guide teaches everything from start-up chemicals, covers, and more for your start up.

www.troublefreepool.com

I forgot to mention this, and I only mention now because I'm not sure if it would make things easier At the moment... When the company closed or pull they removed the anode and the salt cell and put them to the side because they needed to be cleaned. They said that they would clean them when they opened, assuming I would be hiring them again. Is it any easier just to do those things first since they are already removed?

 

[mknauss]

Read SWG How It Works - Further Reading for cleaning the salt cell.

The Anode is not necessary. Better to remove it and plug the connection it was installed in.

If you must do the above prior to being able to circulate the water, then yes, complete them before opening.

FYI -- with proper water chemistry management, a SWCG should never need to be 'cleaned'.

 

[stoles]

Read SWG How It Works - Further Reading for cleaning the salt cell.

The Anode is not necessary. Better to remove it and plug the connection it was installed in.

If you must do the above prior to being able to circulate the water, then yes, complete them before opening.

FYI -- with proper water chemistry management, a SWCG should never need to be 'cleaned'.

Unfortunately the pool equipment was running for over 3 months in the fall through winter during install (2021} without being balanced at all, all while we still had no idea what was really going on out there. The anode was corroded looking before we even opened in March last year (2022}, so I think the 3-4 months really did a number on a few things. We were finding a lot of scale like build.up shooting out of the returns by the end of the summer last year even though the water was well in balance. The closing company said it was coming from the chlorinator. I guess I should confirm before trusting them.

 

[mknauss]

Anode may have been corroded due to poor water chemistry management, but it does not protect any metals in the system.

 

[stoles]

Anode may have been corroded due to poor water chemistry management, but it does not protect any metals in the system.

I've heard that, and I have heard that it does protect metals, and I've also heard that you only need it if you have a heater. It was installed as part of the system so I was indifferent until it looks like it need to be cleaned. Seems like it might be easier to clean it than to find a different way to plug the hole.

 

[stoles]

Okay. I read the article about opening the pool but I still have some more questions that maybe you all can help with. I counted 10 empty jugs of antifreeze when our pool was closed in the winter. I feel like that might be a little excessive to just let back into the pool. We have an auto cover so the water level was raised back up to support the cover. I assume I need to drain the water then remove the antifreeze using waste and/or shop vac before adding water back to the correct level?

 

[stoles]

I apologize in advance for any weird spelling or typos because I'm using voice text

 

[Texas Splash]

I assume I need to drain the water then remove the antifreeze using waste and/or shop vac before adding water back to the correct level?

I'm guessing you haven't cranked-up the system yet? As such, you can place your filter MPV to WASTE and pull water straight out to the yard. That should remove the antifreeze from the suction line(s). As for the pressure side, if the return jets are still plugged, you can use the ShopVac to pull water from that side of the system. Anything you can't get should be okay going back to the pool once you turn it on. The chlorine will take care of it.

 

[stoles]

I'm guessing you haven't cranked-up the system yet? As such, you can place your filter MPV to WASTE and pull water straight out to the yard. That should remove the antifreeze from the suction line(s). As for the pressure side, if the return jets are still plugged, you can use the ShopVac to pull water from that side of the system. Anything you can't get should be okay going back to the pool once you turn it on. The chlorine will take care of it.

Nope. It's all shut down right now.

 

[stoles]

Nope. It's all shut down right now.

So this is where I think my question comes in and I might totally be overthinking this. Because we have an auto cover our water is above the returns which are capped off and the skimmer which has a gizmo in it. Do I need to lower the water level to do this so that when I uncap these the antifreeze doesn't just automatically flow into the pool water?

 

[Texas Splash]

We can compare notes with @Newdude, but I suspect you have a couple options. You can leave the Gizmo in and connect a ShopVac at the pad to pull the antifreeze out, or pull the Gizmo out and immediately pull water to WASTE with the pump. Of course there's the 3rd option of not worrying about it at all and just running the system to let it all go back into the pool.

 

[stoles]

We can compare notes with @Newdude, but I suspect you have a couple options. You can leave the Gizmo in and connect a ShopVac at the pad to pull the antifreeze out, or pull the Gizmo out and immediately pull water to WASTE with the pump. Of course there's the 3rd option of not worrying about it at all and just running the system to let it all go back into the pool.

Kind of reluctant to let it all go back in the water because I counted about 10 bottles after a pool was closed and a good friend told me last year they let about 6 gallons back into their pool and could feel and smell it longer than they hoped.

And that's what I was thinking if we don't lower the water and suction the antifreeze out to waste, I'm going to need another person to pull the gizmo because unfortunately our fence doesn't have a gate on the equipment side and I have to go all the way around the house from the skimmer to the equipment for a couple more months.
Thanks. That's super helpful.

 

[Newdude]

When you pull the return plugs and gizmos, water will flood the system and push the antifreeze further in. Not much if any will seep out. To clear the suction side, prime and fire up the pump to waste for a couple of seconds.

I blew my return pipes back towards the pad with the water level above the returns, but my pad was still apart from the winter. I probably wouldn't have pulled anything to be able to blow that side. As soon as I pulled the plugs, water glug glugged in and once it was done, I put the shop vac hose (in the exhaust port) to the opening and held it tight. It worked good enough. Then I pulled the hose, let it fill again and did it a second time. It literally took a minute and it took 10 to get set up with power and the ship vac. Lol.

RV/Pool antifreeze won't hurt anything, but it's so easy to clear the suction side, you might as well. Even if the return side goes in the pool, you saved half.

 

[stoles]

ok - maybe I should start a new thread, but I'm not sure. I need help.

Everything was going well. We cleaned the salt cell. I replaced the view bubble on the filter that was leaking last summer, I replaced the anode just because it was easier that way, shop vac'd out the return lines antifreeze (just because) and primed the pump and suctioned out the antifreeze to waste. It only took 2 tries to prime (our equipment is a bit uphill and I think that can make it more difficult, right?). Anyway, when we were finally ready to start sending water back to the pool, the problems started - of course. Water is pouring out of the salt cell union, mostly out of the exit unction, but also out of the entry union, ANND the MPV is leaking. It really almost felt as if there were some sort of blockage, but all the winter fittings were removed and the valves are open. Even blew air through the lines just to make sure nothing was going on between there and the pool. What are the chances the MPV seal and the salt cell unions just randomly started leaking? The MPV did not leak when we were pumping to waste.

 

[Newdude]

What are the chances the MPV seal and the salt cell unions just randomly started leaking?

I'd say it's much better chances they are too loose or too tight.

Open them up and make them snug by hand. Turn on the system and tighten a little bit at a time until any drips stop.

 

[stoles]

Well we hand tightened them the first time until they were just at the point where they wouls not easily turn more plus a little nudge. Took it all apart, did it again. Same result.
We're not talking drips though. I mean the MPV has a LOT of drips, but the chlorinator has pouring water. Maybe I need to pick up some new gaskets?

 

[Texas Splash]

Silly question, but did you double-check to ensure any valves ATER the filter are open? If a valve that should let water go back to the pool is shut, you can imagine the pressure backing-up in the lines.

 

[stoles]

Silly question, but did you double-check to ensure any valves ATER the filter are open? If a valve that should let water go back to the pool is shut, you can imagine the pressure backing-up in the lines.

Not a silly question because that was my first panicked thought. THey're definitely all open. We were also a little concerned that there could be some sort of blockage, so we blew air through to make sure that was coming out and no issues there.