Did I drain too much water from my pool (and hot tub) when closing?

[bobby2175]

Have a new company helping with the close this year. It's a little bit of a hybrid though as I drained the water and they are blowing out the lines and closing some of the equipment. I just ran out of time this year to figure out how to do everything.

After reading up on here, I thought I had to lower the water level down 4-5 inches below the return nozzles, but the company doing the close indicated that I took too much water out and would need to add it back to cover back over the tanning ledge.

Same goes for the hot tub. Drained it completely to winterize it, but he's saying I'll need to add water back there after they finishing closing it.

Pics attached. Can you guide me a little here? the concern was that I would damage the plaster.

The pool is about 3 years old.

Thanks.

Bobby

 

[PoolGate]

I go just below the returns.

 

[Bperry]

Have a new company helping with the close this year. It's a little bit of a hybrid though as I drained the water and they are blowing out the lines and closing some of the equipment. I just ran out of time this year to figure out how to do everything.

After reading up on here, I thought I had to lower the water level down 4-5 inches below the return nozzles, but the company doing the close indicated that I took too much water out and would need to add it back to cover back over the tanning ledge.

Same goes for the hot tub. Drained it completely to winterize it, but he's saying I'll need to add water back there after they finishing closing it.

Pics attached. Can you guide me a little here? the concern was that I would damage the plaster.

The pool is about 3 years old.

Thanks.

Bobby

The reason for draining is to allow you to remove water from plumbing and to allow for winter rain to add water without overflowing it. Also draining below tile can help with avoiding cracking tile if the water freezes solid and expands.

On the flip side, exposing plaster also risks damage as the plaster is designed to be constantly hydrated and can crack of it dries out. So you definitely don’t want to completely drain anything.

So balance the amount you drain (if any) with those competing risks.

 

[bobby2175]

I go just below the returns.

I'm currently sitting at just below the returns, but the tanning ledge is completely dry. Should I be adding back?

 

[bobby2175]

The reason for draining is to allow you to remove water from plumbing and to allow for winter rain to add water without overflowing it. Also draining below tile can help with avoiding cracking tile if the water freezes solid and expands.

On the flip side, exposing plaster also risks damage as the plaster is designed to be constantly hydrated and can crack of it dries out. So you definitely don’t want to completely drain anything.

So balance the amount you drain (if any) with those competing risks.

I definitely ended up with several cracked tiles last year that I need to fix. I don't fully understand the risks here. I'm exposing the entire tanning ledge and the sides of the plaster about 2 ft down. Should I cover up the tanning ledge with water and then pump out water when the level gets too high? Not 100% sure on this one.

 

[Newdude]

Should I be adding back?

Yes. Many have had damage with similar scenerios, be it tanning ledges or steps.

Should I cover up the tanning ledge with water and then pump out water when the level gets too high? Not 100% sure on this one.

Yes with a permeable cover. It will be a frequent chore to keep the water level in the sweet spot with little room for error in a locale with lots of off-season accumulation.

A solid cover removes that chore/concern.

 

[Bperry]

I definitely ended up with several cracked tiles last year that I need to fix. I don't fully understand the risks here. I'm exposing the entire tanning ledge and the sides of the plaster about 2 ft down. Should I cover up the tanning ledge with water and then pump out water when the level gets too high? Not 100% sure on this one.

Here’s my take. Which kind of damage is more expensive to fix: tiles or plaster?

Protect the one that costs more to fix. The tanning ledge might want to be fully under water, but if you choose to lower the level, make sure to lower it at least an inch below or above the horizontal surface if there’s any risk of the water freezing solid. You only want frozen water adding expansion force to vertical portions of the pool walls, not on the horizontal areas of steps or tanning ledge.

For context, I just had mine replastered and so I don’t want to risk plaster damage by lowering the water level. I’d rather manage the water level manually over winter to make sure it doesn’t overflow.

 

[Hootz]

I have a vinyl liner pool and have seen the water table rise in the winter causing my liner to float. The more water in the pool, the more pressure there is to prevent the liner from floating. I try to keep my water level a couple of inches below the bottom of the skimmer. I use an inexpensive water level sensor such as this: Amazon.com
I put the high level sensor just slightly below the maximum level so when it alerts I have time to drop in a pump to begin lowering the water level. It also has a low level sensor in case the water gets too low and I need to add water.

 

[bobby2175]

So, if I'm hearing everyone correctly (and please correct me if I'm wrong - I'm a little unsure) - I should go ahead and raise the water level in the pool and bring it up and over the level of the tanning ledge? This would also bring me up and over each of the stairs as well. Does that sound right? And I should manage a level that is how high up the tanning ledge? This would get me to tile level as well. I'm sorry, I'm so confused on the right thing. I currently have the water running to fill the pool. I'm guessing it will take days to get it back up.

How high do I go in the hot tub? Also pictures - just high enough to cover the seats (the last remaining horizontal service)?

Could they have still closed it properly if I didn't empty out so much water?

Thanks for taking the time with all of my questions. I'm still a little lost. But I know for certain I don't want plaster damage.

Bobby

 

[PoolGate]

I would put at least 3-4" above the tanning ledge level. For a plaster pool as much as can be covered will help protect the plaster. They could have close it without lowering you can put the plugs in while they are bubbling underwater. Fairly common.

 

[Newdude]

Thanks for taking the time with all of my questions. I'm still a little lost. But I know for certain I don't want plaster damage.

Please ask as often as you need. If we go too fast, tell us to rewind and playback in slomo.

 

[bobby2175]

I would put at least 3-4" above the tanning ledge level. For a plaster pool as much as can be covered will help protect the plaster. They could have close it without lowering you can put the plugs in while they are bubbling underwater. Fairly common.

This would be a full pool for me then as I believe we only have a few inches of water on the tanning ledge. Does that make sense? I'm totally good if it does. I have a bunch of cracked tiles from last year and it sounds like it's going to be an annual thing.

This was the first year we used this company (they were awesome) and I think we had a little miscommunication. He mentioned we didn't have to go so low, but I was thinking I had to be 4-5 inches below....so I kept going.

 

[Bperry]

This would be a full pool for me then as I believe we only have a few inches of water on the tanning ledge. Does that make sense? I'm totally good if it does. I have a bunch of cracked tiles from last year and it sounds like it's going to be an annual thing.

This was the first year we used this company (they were awesome) and I think we had a little miscommunication. He mentioned we didn't have to go so low, but I was thinking I had to be 4-5 inches below....so I kept going.

I have the same problem as you as my top step is only an inch below my tile. I’ve read that some people use a pool pillow in the water so when it freezes, the pillow acts to relief the expansion pressure. I’m not sure how well that works though.

If your plaster is super old then maybe it’s better to save the tile? I’m not sure that makes sense either though. Just make sure to protect the skimmer with a gizmo or pool noodles if you don’t drain down below the skimmer.

 

[bobby2175]

Thanks for all of the advice! I'm going to fill it back up!

How about the hot tub? Do I take it all the way up to cover the benches or do I also fill that up close to the tile?

I'm just so concerned about this because I did notice a crack in my plaster up near the tile in my pool. I just don't want to destroy this thing.

 

[Bperry]

Thanks for all of the advice! I'm going to fill it back up!

How about the hot tub? Do I take it all the way up to cover the benches or do I also fill that up close to the tile?

I'm just so concerned about this because I did notice a crack in my plaster up near the tile in my pool. I just don't want to destroy this thing.

Crack is bad news if water gets in and freezes. If it’s minor spalling maybe not a big deal but a leaking crack isn’t something you can ignore.

 

[bobby2175]

Crack is bad news if water gets in and freezes. If it’s minor spalling maybe not a big deal but a leaking crack isn’t something you can ignore.

I'm going to see if I can get a pic of it. It was next to a cracked tile and I had completely forgotten about it. It was definitely a crack. Not spalling. I don't have any evidence of leaking, but that's not to say it isn't happening

 

[bobby2175]

Here's a picture of it.

 

[Bperry]

Here's a picture of it.

That may just be the crack formed by the tile breaking loose. But the question of why the tile is broke is a bigger question. Any idea?

 

[bobby2175]

My idea to this is that I didn't know any better. When the pool water got high over the winter, I didn't realize I should be pumping it out. So, my thoughts are that it froze and started cracking tiles. I have several around the pool that are cracked.

My concern for this year now that I know this is that after everyone's feedback here, I will still be at a very high water level to cover the tanning ledge. I'm not 100% sure how high to keep this to prevent any more damage to the tiles or the plaster.

 

[PoolGate]

My idea to this is that I didn't know any better. When the pool water got high over the winter, I didn't realize I should be pumping it out. So, my thoughts are that it froze and started cracking tiles. I have several around the pool that are cracked.

My concern for this year now that I know this is that after everyone's feedback here, I will still be at a very high water level to cover the tanning ledge. I'm not 100% sure how high to keep this to prevent any more damage to the tiles or the plaster.

I don't know if that is totally true. I never drain my pool over winter. Never had any tiles pop off. Usually the level doesn't go up to the tile line but it has before. I am actually not sure how the tiles have issues when the water freezes around them. Maybe someone can explain the physics?