CYA.......and others

Jump to latest Follow Reply
Thanks Matt. So what do you recommend I do—I have some borates but not high. I've added very little. I don't want to keep adding MA. I guess the pool designer should have thought about that.... but they aren't as technical as you guys. In fact by now I probably know more about pool chemistry than 90% of pool designers here.

I'll check my TA again but I guess when I added borates that also increased my TA.... Right?
 
Can you post a full set of test results?

How often does your negative edge spillway run? Can you control that?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk,16k gal SWG pool (All Pentair), QuadDE100 Filter, Taylor K-2006
 
pooldv said:
If you added Borax without adding muriatic acid it would increase TA.
Click to expand...

This is not quite right. Just to clarify, the muriatic acid you add when adding borates to pool water using borax as the source material is simply to offset the pH rise caused by borax. One can use boric acid instead of borax in which case the muriatic acid is unnecessary. Muriatic acid has no effect on the additional alkalinity added by the presence of borates. Even at 50ppm borate concentration, the contribution of borates to the measure total alkalinity is less than 5ppm. This is why borax is better to use for raising pH as it does not increase TA unlike washing soda (sodium carbonate) which raised both pH and TA.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk,16k gal SWG pool (All Pentair), QuadDE100 Filter, Taylor K-2006
 
Borax does also increase TA, just by a minor amount compared to adding baking soda. A pound of borax in your pool will raise pH by 0.08, your borates by 0.6 and your TA by 1.4. A pound of baking soda, for comparison, would raise your TA by 3.1 and your pH by 0.01 (negligible).

Use the Effects of Adding Chemicals section at the bottom of the Pool Math page after you've input your pool volume. Not sure if this section takes into account all values when calculating pH changes.
 
will do a CYA, TA, PH test this weekend and post.... pool & tap water.

When I was adding CYA I thought my PH was going to drop big time (due to PoolMath) so I ended up putting Borax in the water. Apparently it's not so and I may have affected the buffering of the pool.

I'm not sure how to answer the clarity of the water. I think it's quite clear but I'm sure it can be improved. This is more evident when the UWL are on and you can see some particles. I only have a cartridge filter after all. A DE filter would perform better right.

I run the overflow to remove the dust on top of the water. it's done every morning. It's quite dusty here in Manila. My pool doesn't have a skimmer. would this basically mean I'd end up regularly adding MA like I do w/ Cl? MA is actually a controlled substance (by the drug agency) here in the Philippines. Higher concentration & volume is hard to get due to this.
 
I like the analogy of the flipping a coin in the deep end of the pool and being able to tell whether its heads of tails for how clear is clear.

Just wondering at what pH level/s are you adding MA. I think the last reading when looking back was at 7.8. Just as a matter of interest what is the concentration of the MA that you are using?

But some updated test results would be helpful.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
sorry i didn't get a chance to test the others. very busy.

the coin is definitely readable at the bottom but the pool is only 4' deep.

yeah when I was adding the MA it's only a little off the ideal PH and our MA has no concentration on the label. I had to pull teeth just to get the Cl number before.

I'll get the test done. I have not forgotten. My apologies.
 
PH: 7.8
TA: 80
CYA: 45
FC: 5.5

Clarity: Quite clear. I can see the screw head and its orientation no problem. The pool is only 4' deep though. I'll post a photo when I get home.
 
Your numbers are looking pretty good to me Peachy. If your pH level is holding relatively steady at 7.8 then I'd be happy with that. I would just add MA when you hit 8.0.

You are giving the impression that your pool is clear but it would be nice to post a photo looking down.

Have you got a CH reading and tested your fill water?
 
clear? :cool:

PH seems to stay at that level. keep using MA or ignore it for now. Yes I'll test the tap water tomorrow and post.

sorry i didn't do CH coz I never introduced calcium.... should I? AND i forgot to do the tap water—DUH! :jocolor:


pool_1.jpg
 
Wow, you're doing really well! Considering chems with no concentrations (and I think I remember cloudy MA?)... plus all the other barriers... you are persistent and it worked!

Only problem is that it makes me want a tiled pool!
 
If your pH is sticking at 7.8 then that's fine no need to add MA unless it goes higher from there.

As you have a tiled pool you want to make sure you have enough calcium to avoid etching of your grout hence why you need a CH reading. Your tap water may have some calcium in it already if you using this to top up your pool -one reason to test this for CH. If you are relying on rain to top up pool water then it is likely you are going to have to add some to stay within the recommended range.

By the way the water looks great.:D
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply