CYA.......and others

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Tested water

POOL: .............................. TAP WATER:
CH: 60 ............................... CH: <40
PH: 7.8 .............................. PH: 7.4 (perfect)
TA: 80 ............................... TA: 70 (very close)
CYA: 45
FC: 5.5 CC: 0

does it look like the negative edge (aeration) is causing the increase in PH, if so how high can that possibly go w/o me intervening w/ the addition of MA?

Do I need to move that CH to 200+ value? If so then I'll need to use Cal-Hypo for now?
 
Peachy, I noticed there was no reply since last night. I haven't read your entire thread, so I'm going-off of just your last question ... but ..... Based on just those results above in post #101, I would suggest:

CL (?) We really need to know FC. But FC target level is "6" based on a CYA of 50 (rounded-up), so I would increase that FC slightly (8) to ensure you have good coverage for the entire day (more sun lately).
CYA 45 - Rounded-up to 50 is fine
TA 80 - Fine for now. If you find that your pH continues to climb, you can let TA lower to 70 and see how that works.
pH 7.8 - Just don't let it get any higher. Yes, aeration will increase pH, so that's just something we have to watch with fountains and waterfalls. A little acid to come down to about 7.5-7.6 might not hurt.
CH 60 - Really? I want THAT water! Recommended level for a plaster pool is 250-350, so yes, I would increase since you have such soft local water.
Calcium hardness can be raised with calcium chloride or calcium chloride dihydrate. They are available in some areas as Peladow, Dowflake, Tetra Flake, or Tetra 94, often sold as a deicer by hardware stores, and some big box stores, in colder climates. Pool stores will carry either calcium chloride or calcium chloride dihydrate under a variety of names, including Hardness Plus, Balance Pak 300, Calcium Hardness Increaser, etc. Calcium products should be spread across the surface of the deep end of the pool.
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Yes, Cal-Hypo will increase the CH, but you'll have to use the Poolmath calculator (at the bottom see - effects of adding chemicals) to see how much and how fast it will increase CH for you.

I hope this helps you.
 
sorry Texas, that was meant to be FC (not CL). Revised! CC is most often 0 or 0.5 (less often) for me.

CH to 260: wouldn't that much calcium (15 kg) also make my water cloudy? do i really need to hit that 260 mark?

Thanks.
 
You could increase slowly, but that's what is listed on the Recommended Levels for your plaster, non-SWG pool. Remember, if the CH in a plaster pool gets too low, it might try to pull the calcium from the walls which is not good at all. That's where the water balance comes into play. Too much calcium = scale. Too little = etching and damage to the pool surface. Stick close to the Poolmath calculator once you enter all of your test results and preferred "target goals". The calculator will tell you exactly what to do. :)

Copied from Pool School :

CH - Calcium Hardness

Calcium hardness indicates the amount of calcium in the water. Over time, water with low calcium levels will tend to dissolve calcium out of plaster, pebble, tile, stone, concrete, and to some extent fiberglass surfaces. You can prevent this from happening by keeping the water saturated with calcium. In a vinyl lined pool there is no need for calcium, though high levels can still cause problems. A plaster pool should have CH levels between 250 and 350 if possible. Calcium helps fiberglass pools resist staining and cobalt spotting. If you have a spa you might want to keep CH at at least 100 to 150 to reduce foaming. CH contributes to the CSI which indicates the tendency for paster damage or calcium scaling.

You increase CH with calcium chloride, sold as a deicer and by pool stores, or calcium chloride dihydrate, sold by pools stores for increasing calcium. You lower calcium by replacing water.
Click to expand...
 
Increasing CH will not effect your other test readings. Whenever you're curious though, you can see the side effects of any chemical additions to the water on the Poolmath calculator . Just look near the bottom. That section comes-in handy quite often.
 
Weird. I'm almost certain I didn't see calcium chloride there earlier on my Mac. But now I see it on my iPhone. Myb it's just temporary blindness. Thanks actually I do look at poolmath (awesome resource) but I just didn't see it earlier. Thanks.
 
Guys, I called a place and I was asked if the calcium chloride I wanted was "industrial" or "medical" grade. I'm assuming it's industrial. Correct? They are both white. Medical grade is 10x more money.
 

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Wow they really heat up eh? I put in 8kg this time. I'll test later.

Came as very white flakes. I was told it's 77% concentration. I have no clue what the 23% is. I hope it's nothing bad.

2nd part tomorrow to get it to 260.
 
Peachy you and your pool have come such a LONG way! That pool is SO pretty and inviting looking!

Good job on your numbers and knowing what to do.

I would love to see a supporter badge by your name. That would be the icing on the cake. It will help TFP help others when they need it.

HUGS!

Kim
 
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