Cheapest place for pool acid

[edogg]

I’m using 1/2 gal weekly, not 2 gal weekly. I put in 1/4 gal twice a week. Sorry for any confusion.

As for the 8.5 measurement, it’s a best guess. Basically it’s a darker red than what’s on the comparator at 8.2, so that’s what I enter.

 

[pjt]

Not regularly. Only when TA gets low.

TA down to 50 is perfectly fine. When are you adding baking soda? For non-trichlor pools, you'll almost never need to add baking soda.

 

[edogg]

My pool rarely needs baking soda. The only time I added some is when we had a barrage of rain and water escaped via the overflow drain for several days in a row. I also had to add CYA at that same time too because of the water replacement from the heavy rains.

 

[Ahultin]

Spillover is constant and runs with the pool pump.

You should consider enabling spillover mode in your aqualink, close the manual valve for spa return, and setting a program to run spillover a couple times a day (mine runs 3x per day, 15 min each) which will help limit the PH rise from aeration

Jandy Aqualink RS - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[duraleigh]

I understand your results now, thanks.

To get us all on the same page, could you post your current pH maybe again? Also the pH and TA of your fill water?

 

[edogg]

You should consider enabling spillover mode in your aqualink, close the manual valve for spa return, and setting a program to run spillover a couple times a day (mine runs 3x per day, 15 min each) which will help limit the PH rise from aeration

Jandy Aqualink RS - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

I’m confused by this…as it is, water is already suctioned by my pool and returned to both the spa and pool, causing the spillover. With this mode, my spa water will only be cycled for 45 minutes a day. Is that enough?

 

[SoDel]

I’m confused by this…as it is, water is already suctioned by my pool and returned to both the spa and pool, causing the spillover. With this mode, my spa water will only be cycled for 45 minutes a day. Is that enough?

I think there’s two schools of thought on this. One is return to the spa (causing spillover) as little as necessary to reduce aeration and hence speed of pH rise. The second is return it all the time, just enough spillover to flush surface debris into the pool and hence to the skimmers. First decide your priority — reduce aeration or reduce debris sitting in the spa so long that it sinks to bottom of spa.

If you prioritize reducing aeration, then determine how much run time is really needed. All the spa needs is enough FC residual to sanitize and enough filtration to keep the water looking clear. A little trial and error can get you there (starting more frequent and working down to the FC floor you are comfortable with just before the next “spa flush” is likely preferable to getting behind the curve and working up).

I run my pump lower speeds 24/7 and spa with a bit of spillover all the time. I just hate the look of a dirty pool but likewise don’t really enjoy cleaning it all the time lol. The speed of pH rise is an issue, especially early in the season when TA is still on the high side from where it needed to be for Winter, but once I get TA down close to 50, pH rise stabilizes at about 8.0. The only pain point I’ve encountered doing it this way is a decent pH meter becomes a necessity to make sure pH does actually stop rising at 8.

 

[duraleigh]

I don't want to hijack the thread but I disagree that a pricey digital pH meter is necessary to correctly manage pool water.

I would say the same for ALL digital pH meters. Too often, some HAVE TO have the latest and greatest technology and so the great unwashed masses out there chose digital.......Bad Choice! The brand name or price doesn't alter what I am saying

The inexpensive drops based Phenol Red test is the easiest fastest, most consistent AND cheapest test on the market. Perfectly accurate, as well

Don't use color-blind as an excuse, either. There are too many work arounds. Digital meters come with baggage that just isn't necessary in pool water management.

 

[PoolBrews]

I don't want to hijack the thread but I disagree that a pricey digital pH meter is necessary to correctly manage pool water.

While not necessary, I have found it to make my testing much easier. I test both a spa and a pool, and will often spot check the pH for both with just my Apera meter. I only have to calibrate it once every 4-5 months, and it takes seconds to give me accurate pH readings. If I think the readings are getting off, I will spot check with the drop test, but so far (over 3 years in), it's always been on the money.

 

[generessler]

I have the full time spa spillover setup as the OP, but the VSP rpm and valves are set so that what spills over is just drops. I'd guess a gallon every 2-3 minutes 24x7 except twice a day the pump runs fast for 1.5 hours to purge the spa, feed the pressure-side cleaner, and skim the pool. I really like this setup because the water sound is so pleasant whenever we're outside, which is often. I've also tried no spillover at all and noted little if any change in pH rise. At 8.0 add 3 pints to get to 7.4. It takes 7-60 days to get back to 8.0 depending on water temp 84F to 33. Letting TA find a low natural level (~60) was key.

A side benefit of the very slow spillover is that if it ever stops, you know it's time to clean the filter