-Edit, I suppose a DPDT is more up to code as this would completely kill any hot legs going to the motor, but that's a pretty moot point because if I was messing around with the motor anyway I'd have power off at the breaker. Plus a DPDT adds extra complexity and wires in an already cramped space.
Are you wiring a 2 speed pump with a switch at the motor? I just put a 3 way switch with a weatherproof cover at my pad instead of trying to mess with anything at the motor.
I'm upgrading from a single speed motor to a dual / two speed motor (AO Smith B2983). My current timer (PF1102T) can't control a two speed motor so I have to figure out a way to control low and high speeds on my new motor.
Are you wiring a 2 speed pump with a switch at the motor? I just put a 3 way switch with a weatherproof cover at my pad instead of trying to mess with anything at the motor
That's my plan for now, switch it at the motor. I hadn't even thought of being able to put a toggle at the motor until I saw that AO Smith was marketing upgraded covers with toggles already built in.
This season I'll have to see how often I actually need to switch to high for backwash and vacuuming. If I do it often enough or I grumble enough at having to bend over and thru all the pipes to get to the switch I may reassess my thoughts and potentially upgrade to a wall mounted switch or just go Cadillac and get that PE153F.
I suspect you want a hi/low speed switch for your pump. If I was doing this, I’d mount a waterproof J-box at a covenant location, bring the motor power from the GFCI to it and install a 2-way wall toggle (it’s a SPDT) and waterproof switch cover. Exit the box with flex to the motor. You can’t modify the motor’s cover and keep its UL certification.
Ordered from Digikey a toggle switch SPDT (PN EG4816-ND) for $4.28 (rated for 2 hp) and rubber boot (PN335-1125-ND) for the switch $3.20 with shipping came to $10.28 for a high/low switch for the motor. I'll drill the cover and mount the switch.
If I had to do over, I'd opt for the normal 3-way switch option, and use a water resistant standard electrical box attached to the wall. Run wire down flex conduit to the motor.
Hmm, there might be enough room in my Intermatic housing to mount the switch internally. I'd need a low profile or rocker it looks like though. That bottom plate is just a cover that you take off to wire up everything, there's lots of empty space behind it.
I'd rather not have to throw on another wall wart box. Yes, I'm a bit crazy like that.
Mine is already jumbled up, so it didn't pain me to add this.
I wouldn't want one on the motor because it would be harder to get to. Depending on what's behind the metal right under the clock, you may be able to drill there and put the switch there. Make sure it's all insulated. That would be my biggest fear with a regular set screw toggle switch.
But as you can see from the posts above the way most folks prefer to do this is to either get a new timer (T10604R) or control it from a switch in a jbox.
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