After pricing online, I see the 45M1 and 45M2 are the same price. Is there any advantage in getting the 45M2 or should I stick with the 45M1?
Thanks for the help.
Thanks for the help.
Building Chlorine Injector
- Thread starter Wolfmarsh
- Start date
Aquaman95 said:
I set it up this weekend as a true flooded setup, with the suction line at the bottom of the tank. But, I am still using the foot valve strainer. I drilled a hole near the bottom of my tank. The hole was just big enough to run the tubing through, and I sealed it with hot glue. I put the strainer at the end of the tubing, so it's sitting at the bottom of my tank. I have one coupler to connect the tank tube, and another tube that goes to the pump intake.
Randy
kmb997 said:
All of the series 45M1-45M5 should be the same price. The only difference is the size of the feed tube in the head. Those are all the same price as well and are a seasonal wear item.
I'd go with the closest size to what you expect to use...you can always change feed tubes later.
randytsuch said:
I have no idea how resistant hot glue it to bleach but if it is that should work from what you are describing. I'd keep a close eye on it though...you don't want any leaks at the bottom of the tank.
Aquaman95 said:
I was a little worried about that too. One good thing is that I used 3/8" OD tubing, and with the 3/8" inch hole I drilled, the tube is pretty snug in the hole. It would not be waterproof, without adding something, but water would probably just slowly drip out.
So, I think only a little of the hot glue is actually exposed to bleach, and since my pool is covered, and my usage is low, I am diluting the bleach to 3%.
But, I will watch it over time, and make sure the bleach does not eat away at the glue.
Randy
DLSDO said:
It's plugged in to a GFI outlet around the corner on the patio (keep your WT comments to yourself
)The pump has a timer that adjusts the run/idle cycle. I have it constantly on with the timer pulsing it off and on. I have the pool pump set up to run twice during the day so there could be a bit of a drop off and a spike in chlorine depending on if the pump is running or not but it's nothing major, and far less than somebody manually dumping bleach in once a day.
I'd prefer to have a higher output pump and just run it while the pool pump was running, but it works.
I'm planning to get a stenner pump, for chlorine, and my plan is to use a tee instead of drilling into the pipe. I'm not sure how it will work, so I'll post what I am going to try, and hope to get some feedback.
1.5" x 1" x 1.5 tee
From the 1" part of the tee, I bought a 1" to .5" reducer. .5" side is threaded
From the .5" reducer, I bought a .5" to a .25" threaded quick connect male adapter
I also bought a .5" threaded plug in case I need to disconnect the tubing for some reason.
I think all of that will work, but I forgot about the injection check valve. What can I do to incorporate the check valve?
Any suggestions on that setup?
Thanks
1.5" x 1" x 1.5 tee
From the 1" part of the tee, I bought a 1" to .5" reducer. .5" side is threaded
From the .5" reducer, I bought a .5" to a .25" threaded quick connect male adapter
I also bought a .5" threaded plug in case I need to disconnect the tubing for some reason.
I think all of that will work, but I forgot about the injection check valve. What can I do to incorporate the check valve?
Any suggestions on that setup?
Thanks
kmb997 said:
It will work as long as the quick connect is not metal. Not sure what you are describing. You don't really even need a quick connect there; you can use a 1/2 x 1/4 threaded reducer or even a 1/4 FNPT x 1/4 MNPT threaded ball valve.
You don't have to have an injection check valve with a peristaltic type pump like the Stenner; those are only required on diaphragm.
You can use one if you want to though...but Stenner's don't ship with them unless you order the high pressure version which you don't need.
I will check on the 1/2 x 1/4 threaded reducer and the 1/4 FNPT x 1/4 MNPT threaded ball valve. I didn't buy anything metal, all plastic.
Thanks Aquaman
Thanks Aquaman
I just finished setting up the Stenner chlorine injector. Are there any problems with the way it is set up? Did I set up the connections to the stenner pump correctly? Also, should there be a clicking noise while the stenner is spinning?
I'm still using 50oz. a day = .390625USG, but I will be running the pump for a total of 9 hours, 3-3hour intervals, instead of 8. Also, I am using 3/8" tubing. Can you tell me what setting I will need to use? Did you multiply by the 3 GPD or did that come from somewhere else? How do the hours factor into the equation?
Thanks
I'm still using 50oz. a day = .390625USG, but I will be running the pump for a total of 9 hours, 3-3hour intervals, instead of 8. Also, I am using 3/8" tubing. Can you tell me what setting I will need to use? Did you multiply by the 3 GPD or did that come from somewhere else? How do the hours factor into the equation?
Thanks
Attachments
Your target total feed for the day was 50 fl oz. total feed per day = .390625 USG, regardless of how long the pump was running.
The Stenner 45M1 feeds at 1.2 GPD (gallons per day) on the #4 setting. Divided by 24 gives us .05 GPH (gallons per hour).
.05 GPH x 8 hours (your initial target ontime) gives us .4 USG total feed during the 8 hour period. If you increase that to 9 hours at the number 4 setting you are up to .45 USG total feed during the 9 hour period, a little more than you target of .390625 USG per day.
Dropping the feed rate to the #3 setting reduces the feed rate to .9 GPD or .0375 GPH. .0375 GPH x 9 hours ontime = .3375 USG total feed, just shy of your goal. Moving up to 10 hours gives you .375 USG and 11 hours gives you .4125 USG per day.
I'd recommend sticking with the 8 hours, #4 setting to hit your goal most closely. If you increase ontime you will have to compromise a bit more.
I'm probably being way to precise with this but you can look at the above numbers and decide how precise you want to be.
The clicking sound is normal...it's the mechanical feed rate control...more specifically the index pin engaging the index plate.
The Stenner 45M1 feeds at 1.2 GPD (gallons per day) on the #4 setting. Divided by 24 gives us .05 GPH (gallons per hour).
.05 GPH x 8 hours (your initial target ontime) gives us .4 USG total feed during the 8 hour period. If you increase that to 9 hours at the number 4 setting you are up to .45 USG total feed during the 9 hour period, a little more than you target of .390625 USG per day.
Dropping the feed rate to the #3 setting reduces the feed rate to .9 GPD or .0375 GPH. .0375 GPH x 9 hours ontime = .3375 USG total feed, just shy of your goal. Moving up to 10 hours gives you .375 USG and 11 hours gives you .4125 USG per day.
I'd recommend sticking with the 8 hours, #4 setting to hit your goal most closely. If you increase ontime you will have to compromise a bit more.
I'm probably being way to precise with this but you can look at the above numbers and decide how precise you want to be.
The clicking sound is normal...it's the mechanical feed rate control...more specifically the index pin engaging the index plate.
Also, the 3/8" tubing instead of 1/4" has no bearing on feed output. A Stenner will only pump as fast as the smallest orifice will allow and that is inside the feed tube connector which is closer to 1/4".
kmb997 said:
I really like the looks of that Stenner setup. Did you get it local or online? What did it set you back? I can find it for $479 online but no better than that.
Already in the middle of building my own system and hadn't found this thread yet....Question regarding where to "inject" the chlroine, on the suction or pressure side? I realize the pressure side may require a check valve but then there is the risk of corrosion or deteriation from the chlorine with one of those...Dont see much harm on the suction side as long its not too agressive for the filters pump (not very diluted)...
I also found several tips for the connection on the PVC and at the pump but what all has everyone been using at the barrel? Kinda a catch 22 because you need it to vent some but also not evaporate on you.
Edit: Seems I found in the thread a few of the users do the pressurse side....Any reccomendations on what materials will stand up to the chlorine? Second part, seen about one person using hot glue to seal where their tube to the bucket goes in, any other connectors out there for this? Do you think I need a filter at the bottom of my hose in the bucket?
I also found several tips for the connection on the PVC and at the pump but what all has everyone been using at the barrel? Kinda a catch 22 because you need it to vent some but also not evaporate on you.
Edit: Seems I found in the thread a few of the users do the pressurse side....Any reccomendations on what materials will stand up to the chlorine? Second part, seen about one person using hot glue to seal where their tube to the bucket goes in, any other connectors out there for this? Do you think I need a filter at the bottom of my hose in the bucket?
investindy said:
Are you talking about doing a venturi type system or are you going to use an injection pump like a Stenner?
Like the Stenner....I found a used Pulsafeeder unit I plan to put it on the Pressure side. Don't know as of yet if the roller is in contact the entire time to prevent flowback or if I truly will need an "injection valve (aka check valve)"......
The other part is even though its very innocent suction on the barrel side do I need to be concerned if I fully seal the connection/port sucking the chlorine out. I want it sealed due to stopping vapors emmiting/losses. But I don't know how much, if any issues with suction and or air/pressure changes on my drum with temperature changes. I know it will be some but is it even significant?
The other part is even though its very innocent suction on the barrel side do I need to be concerned if I fully seal the connection/port sucking the chlorine out. I want it sealed due to stopping vapors emmiting/losses. But I don't know how much, if any issues with suction and or air/pressure changes on my drum with temperature changes. I know it will be some but is it even significant?
investindy said:
Skip the bulkhead and just drop the suction line down in your tank with a clay weight or foot valve. It's much safer this way since you've eliminated a potential leak spot...the other poster had fashioned a bulkhead to use gravity injection...you don't need that with a peristaltic pump.
Don't totally seal the tank and you'll be fine.
Perhaps my concern is minimal about gases from the entry point of my tubing coming in, I may try clay, putty, or hot glue from some of the tips other posters. Was thinking of the smell and possible waste having it go to vapor....
Regarding the footvalve though, what is that? Could I just use a rigid tubing in there to make sure its at the bottom? What material for a weight and attaching to the hose so the chlorine doesn't eat it?
Regarding the footvalve though, what is that? Could I just use a rigid tubing in there to make sure its at the bottom? What material for a weight and attaching to the hose so the chlorine doesn't eat it?
investindy said:
Don't worry about vapors/loss if you're coming in the top. Just drill the hold in the lid slightly larger than the tubing.
A foot valve is a weighted check valve, usually with a strainer screen on it that is put on the suction end of a diaphragm or certain types of peristaltic chemical pumps. They are always used with diaphragm pumps.
Clay weights are specialty items used in applications where a strainer or check valve isn't needed. Basically, any non-metallic weight that will keep the suction tubing at the bottom will work.
Sorry to bring up an old thread, but I would like to know if I need a check valve where the stenner discharge line enters into my return line? Look at the 2nd and 3rd pics above.
Thanks
Thanks