Brown/muddy water flowing out of return holes?

[poolguy968]

Thank you however, I do want to clarify that for the thinnest wall on the deep end which has the 10 inch bond beam, I do believe that most of the actual wall under the bond beam is a lot less than 10 inches thick.

Like I've attached a before and after gunite photo of that area showing that a part of the bond beam is built over the soil like a ledge so the actual wall thickness must be several inches less than the bond beam's thickness.

In that case do you think the wall thickness is still most likely ok? I guess it must be about 2 inches thinner than what its would be if the bond beam had been 12 inches.

I think they did the gunite for this 10 inch area last and it was already getting dark by then and they mentioned something like they were running low on gunite so I wonder if that could've been a factor that led to this outcome.

 

[ajw22]

I cannot judge the adequacy of the thickness the pool wall was engineered for. If you have concerns you should bring them to your builder and the engineer who should have stamped the engineered pool specifications.

 

[AQUA~HOLICS]

Pool walls are typically 6” thick with the top of the bond beam 10“ to 12” thick at a 45 degree angle.
What I can not see in the first picture is if the dirt where the vertical meets the horizontal is cut to a 45 degree angle, this is something that I recommend to the excavating crew to have cut to ensure a proper thickness at in this area.

 

[poolguy968]

That pipe is to be at the highest point in the spa plumbing, it’s very common to have them visible at the end of Shotcrete. The coping installer should be experienced in how to install the coping without damaging the pipe and having the pipe not interfere with the installation of the coping.View attachment 557138

Thank you so much for sharing this!

Sorry on a different note, the issue with the spa pipe sticking out above the gunite is still bothering me a little bit.

I just want to follow up and ask if the section of pipes that are circled in red in the picture you previously shared ended up also sticking out a bit above the surface of the bond beam after the gunite for your spa was done?

Like could you feel a bump where they are visible? And everything still worked out fine without having to add extra gunite to cover it or doing anything additional to address it?

I mostly ask because for my spa you can feel a bit of a bump where the pipe sticks out above the gunite and we are doing the coping soon so just looking for some assurance that we are ok to proceed with adding the mortar and coping without doing anything additional to address it.

 

[AQUA~HOLICS]

Here is a picture of the spa after Shotcrete.

What type of coping are you having installed?

 

[poolguy968]

Here is a picture of the spa after Shotcrete.
View attachment 557629
What type of coping are you having installed?

Oh I see! It looks like those red highlighted pipes still ended up being fully covered by the gunite in your spa whereas the top of our pipe remains visible and also sticks out above the surface of the bond beam a little bit (about 0.2-0.3 inches)

Right now we're thinking of doing either a marble or travertine/stone sort of coping around the top of our raised spa with a rolled edge as well.

I think the spot where the pipe sticks out would have the coping on top and not the rolled edge though.

So just wanted to confirm that in your opinion, this is all ok and doesn't require any corrective action? Thanks!

Here is a picture of the spa after Shotcrete.
View attachment 557629
What type of coping are you having installed?

 

[AQUA~HOLICS]

It’s OK but not the best situation,
The plumber set the pipe too high and the Shotcrete crew didn’t adjust for the elevation change that was needed to keep it from being exposed at the final cut.

What it requires is that what ever product goes on top of the bond beam with the exposed pipe does not come in direct contact with the pie, this will help with allowing the two move independently of each other.