Yeah, please verify. 5 is really high but not impossible. You are losing chlorine quickly.
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Yes, you need more bleach (Check Pool Math for exact amount and post here and we will verify)
Brand new...help!
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Yeah, please verify. 5 is really high but not impossible. You are losing chlorine quickly.
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Yes, you need more bleach (Check Pool Math for exact amount and post here and we will verify)
cc 5....
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Plus, put in another 1300 ounces....see a little bit of white foam coming out of pool cleaner return...will test in half hour
Yes, you need more bleach (Check Pool Math for exact amount and post here and we will verify)
You are going to need a lot of chlorine. Anyway you can get some 12.5% solution. It would be a lot less jugs to handle. Where are you located?
I think you may have an ammonia situation on your hands. Gonna re-read your thread BRB
was wondering the same thing.
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It won't matter much at this point, but to be sure to set % of bleach correctly in Pool Math to get the right amount to add. You said 1300 oz, but if you were using 8.25% bleach, then Pool Math should have been 921 oz.
It was 1300 for 6%.
The way your chlorine is getting used up, it won't matter, but it will help you add the correct amounts from here on out.
New Jersey...if no movement after this, am thinking of a partial drain to reduce CYA (****** off becuase my original CYA was low when I opened but the pool store told me to dump dichlor shock in heaps until I found this forum last week!) and then start SLAM once I refill and test. Am thinking I will need less bleach to get to shock FC level?
Ya, sounds like it. Can you get the 12.5%?
In inground pools, soil bacteria can enter the pool through rain water runoff and convert CYA to ammonia. This results in extreme chlorine demand and shows up as very high CCs. So the 5 result is a red flag. It's not impossible to see it in clear water too, just treated a pool that was clear but had an ammonia of 8ppm and had CYA from the Dichlor the pool guy that came a few days before me used to try and fix the problem.
You'll need to test and add chlorine up to every 30 minutes. Don't bother testing the CC during this process to save reagents. Test the FC with the FAS-DPD. When the FC is holding at your shock level for more than 1 hour then you can test CC and see if your making progress. When the ammonia has been almost oxidized you'll see the CC start to drop fairly quickly.
Additionally if you want to confirm you can go to a local petshop and purchase a fish tank ammonia test kit.
Here's an article to test the extreme chlorine demand, another hint if your dealing with ammonia:
http://www.troublefreepool.com/post56824.html#p56824
In inground pools, soil bacteria can enter the pool through rain water runoff and convert CYA to ammonia. This results in extreme chlorine demand and shows up as very high CCs. So the 5 result is a red flag. It's not impossible to see it in clear water too, just treated a pool that was clear but had an ammonia of 8ppm and had CYA from the Dichlor the pool guy that came a few days before me used to try and fix the problem.
You'll need to test and add chlorine up to every 30 minutes. Don't bother testing the CC during this process to save reagents. Test the FC with the FAS-DPD. When the FC is holding at your shock level for more than 1 hour then you can test CC and see if your making progress. When the ammonia has been almost oxidized you'll see the CC start to drop fairly quickly.
Additionally if you want to confirm you can go to a local petshop and purchase a fish tank ammonia test kit.
Here's an article to test the extreme chlorine demand, another hint if your dealing with ammonia:
http://www.troublefreepool.com/post56824.html#p56824
Did combo of both to total an effective 1300 ounce at 6%...the concentrates were each 64 ounce which "equals" 96oz of 6%...hope that makes sense?
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Please comment on my drain/refill idea in post above...thx!
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Please comment on my drain/refill idea in post above...thx!
Yes, you can do that if you want, lowering the CYA and also the ammonia level if that's what your dealing with. Up to you!
Yes, you are exactly right. A partial drain and refill will lower the CYA and reduce the ammonia concentration. A lower CYA will lower the shock level which will reduce your chlorine usage.
Don't worry, I know it seems like this is a hopeless task, but if you keep at it, you will fix the problem and truly have a Trouble Free Pool.
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Also, it looks like you have Ollie's in your area. They have inexpensive 12.5% "shock" in my area which I use for my pool. I would call first and see if they carry it if it's not too far from you.
OK...FC 1.5 and CC is 9! (not .9, but 9)...so unless someone tells me otherwise, time to drain and start refill! Also, forecast for rain to help refill...
Yes a partial drain/refill is fine. I have no experience with an inground, others can chime in on how low you can drain without issues.
about 1/3 - leave at least a foot of water in the shallow end if you are unaware of your water table level.
Still waiting for pool to fill...Are you referring to liquid or hth granular? It appears the liquid is $2.99 for 1 gallon at 12.5%? I can get regular bleach for $2 per 96 oz. I think the Ollie's is more expensive?
96 oz @ 8.25% = 7.92 oz pure hypochlorite $2.00/7.92 = $.253 per ounce of pure hypochlorite
128 oz @ 12.5% = 16 oz pure hypochlorite $2.99/16 = $.187 per ounce of pure hypochlorite
Depends on the strength of your regular bleach. Some of the bargain bleaches can be as low as 3%.
Regular bleach at 3% - $2 for 96oz at 3%, $2.00/96/.03 = $0.69 per oz
Regular bleach at 6% - $2 for 96oz at 6%, $2.00/96/.06 = $0.35 per oz
Regular bleach at 8.25% - $2 for 96oz at 8.25%, $2.00/96/.0825 = $0.25 per oz
Oliie's "shock" at 12.5% - $2.99 for 128oz at 12.5%, $2.99/128/.125 = $0.19 per oz
Either way Ollie's is cheaper than the $2 for 96oz regardless of the strength. Also Ollies will send you coupons periodically for 15% off which will lower the cost even further.
Plus it is less jugs to handle. Just check the manufacture date, if it is old, it will be less potent. Don't but supply for 6 months, a few months would be fine.
If you're result is .5 posting it as 0.5 makes it really clear. That leading zero helps keep it clear and makes the decimal stand out.
Sorry all!! You are right, i am pooled out...I was thinking 64oz. is a gallon! Duh!!!
Just finished draining and filling pool and here's what I got ready to SLAM:
FC 0-0.5
CC 1.0
TA 110
pH 7.0-7.2
CYA 50
CH 175
Is it ok to SLAM or should I get CH back on track first? Thx!!
If so, I have to go get chemical in the AM...any recommended "no frill" version vs. pool store "Hardness Control"?
FC 0-0.5
CC 1.0
TA 110
pH 7.0-7.2
CYA 50
CH 175
Is it ok to SLAM or should I get CH back on track first? Thx!!
If so, I have to go get chemical in the AM...any recommended "no frill" version vs. pool store "Hardness Control"?
SLAM it. CH will come up just fine all by itself in a matter of weeks, if not days, just from evaporation and refilling.