Board Repair

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william13

Gold Supporter
Oct 1, 2022
729
south florida
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
I have an older Hayward controller: goldline aqua logic circuit board "g1-066008k-1"
Smelled smoky and there was a communication error. Many years ago I repaired the solder joint on the corner relay.
This time I flipped the board over and re-soldered the joint. I did the job very fast in the dark after work and maybe that is why the board did not come to life again.
I noticed one of the IC components looking a little funky "u4" but have not looked at it real close. It sought of looks like it exploded. I am good at soldering but I dont know the component or if I can get it
 

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U4 is blown out.

Can you read what is printed on U5 next to it?
 
I do not see any information on the U5. Also there is what appears to be a weird drip line going from top to the IC. (picture is rotated)
 

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ajw22 said:
Either replace the board with a Prologic board or get the OmniPL upgrade kit.

Hayward OmniPL - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
Click to expand...
Thank you. I started to read about the OmniPL but was unclear if it was an add on the the old board (which is toast) or actually replaces it. Will it work with my current salt generator ? 15
 
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They drive all the relays. K1, K2, K3, actuators, heater and power. I had a K1 fail on me which also blew out the driver.
 
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william13 said:
Will both the Pentair and Hayward work the the T15 salt generator? One year old and expensive T15
Click to expand...

Your T15 can directly connect into the OmniPL.

With Pentair automation you would need to buy an Aquarite control panel for the cell.
 
mas985 said:
U4/U5 is a relay driver. I have replaced one before and added sockets so I could easily replace them again.


View attachment 543842

If you do replace them, you might want to test continuity on the relays to make sure they are not shorted.
Click to expand...
Wow Wow!! thanks. I love soldering although I just got excited about the upgraded panel. I definately will start to trouble shoot and I would love to report my findings. How did you figure out the component?
 
There is a glaze over the chips and I carefully took that off so I could read the chip number. But I have seen some boards on forum that do not have any print on them.

Here was my order from DigiKey:

#PRODUCT DETAILSSHIP DATEQUANTITYBACKORDERUNIT PRICEEXTENDED PRICE
1
Product Image

576-1307-ND
MIC5841YN
IC PWR DRIVER BIPOLAR 1:8 18DIP
20$3.71000$7.42
2
Product Image

ED3047-5-ND
ED18DT
CONN IC DIP SOCKET 18POS TIN
20$0.22000$0.44
 
ajw22 said:
Total replacement with new board, color touchscreen, builtin networking and app.



You read Hayward OmniPL - Further Reading ?
Click to expand...
Yes I read it and that seems like an option I will consider. I may want to fix my board as an alternative. It seems since I have the T15 AWG that it would be less expensive to stick with Hayward then to switch to a pentair automation. I am interested in the mean time to bypass the board and have my pumps run. I heard that is easy. Has anyone here done it?
 
william13 said:
I am interested in the mean time to bypass the board and have my pumps run. I heard that is easy. Has anyone here done it?
Click to expand...

Show us how the power to your pumps are wired.

Your pumps have their own control panels on them?

What model pumps do you have?

Post pics.
 
Well I removed the board and I can see a lot going on.
1. K 2 Relay has a lot of carbon deposit below and around it and when I flip the board over..
2. I can see the trace got very hot as there is a long strip of discoloration.
3. U4 is destroyed on top and you can see what it did to terminals below
4. U4 bottom of board
5. The white thick white lines on front probably represent the traces getting to hot and discoloring the blue. I need to see if they are intact.
6. Main thing is to make sure I understand what triggered the event so I dont replace and it happens again.
 

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