AquaLink RS4 Jandy - Filter Goes to Cool Down Mode/Off After Temperature Reached

[MichaelPoolGuy]

I have any AquaLink RS4 Jandy that controls my spa. I have temp 1 set to 102 and the maintain temp feature set for all day so that if I have the heater on, I'd like it to get to the temp and stay there until I turn the heat off.

When I turn temp 1 on it heats to the desire temp and the temp 1 light goes green as I'd expect. However, then the filter light starts to blink going into what I believe is cool down mode and I get an message that filter may turn on to maintain temperature. The problem is that after around 5 minutes the filter goes off and stays off. Thus, even though temp 1 is still on, the heater says in enabled mode (green light) and never kicks back on when the temperature drops because the filter is off and so it won't fire up the heater.

Besides fixing the unit itself, my other though was to upgrade my system with a remote or Wifi enabled Aqualink device so I can just manually turn on the filter and restart the heat. I've had a two technicians say they recommend a AquaLink full system replacement when I only asked about adding the remote/wifi and didn't tell them about the issue above. They both recommended a full system replacement and it seems they're just trying to sell me a new system but maybe mine is too old to be upgraded with a remove/wifi. My aqualink is original to the spa that was built in 2008.

 

[1poolman1]

I have any AquaLink RS4 Jandy that controls my spa. I have temp 1 set to 102 and the maintain temp feature set for all day so that if I have the heater on, I'd like it to get to the temp and stay there until I turn the heat off.

When I turn temp 1 on it heats to the desire temp and the temp 1 light goes green as I'd expect. However, then the filter light starts to blink going into what I believe is cool down mode and I get an message that filter may turn on to maintain temperature. The problem is that after around 5 minutes the filter goes off and stays off. Thus, even though temp 1 is still on, the heater says in enabled mode (green light) and never kicks back on when the temperature drops because the filter is off and so it won't fire up the heater.

Besides fixing the unit itself, my other though was to upgrade my system with a remote or Wifi enabled Aqualink device so I can just manually turn on the filter and restart the heat. I've had a two technicians say they recommend a AquaLink full system replacement when I only asked about adding the remote/wifi and didn't tell them about the issue above. They both recommended a full system replacement and it seems they're just trying to sell me a new system but maybe mine is too old to be upgraded with a remove/wifi. My aqualink is original to the spa that was built in 2008.

What is the revision of your Aqualink software. You need at least Revision R to use the iAqualink iQ30. An upgrade kit would then be required. A 2008 system likely doesn't meet that requirement.

You need to troubleshoot to find out if the pump is being turned off by the system or it is shutting down due to another problem. A 15-year-old system is about end of life.

 

[HermanTX]

Welcome to TFP
It might be good to post a picture of the inside of your current AquaLink control box. also do you control at that box or do you have a control panel inside. We need to determine if your box can be upgraded. You may need a whole new box, can you show what the pool service offered to sell you?

A new iQ30-RS kit which includes an updated PCB and the wifi antenna may run $1800 or so. Just a new PCB for an RS-4 is about $800 then you would need to purchase the antenna which is a iQ30-Ant You have to purchase via an authorized Jandy distributor.
You can read

Jandy Aqualink RS - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[MichaelPoolGuy]

Thanks for much for the replies.

I looked everywhere I could find but can't find what software revision my AquaLink has. I have a box at the equipment as well as a control panel inside. Pictures below.

The quote I received was for a "IQ904-P Automation Bundle" ($2,070) and another $570 in labor plus unspecified plumbing charges. I'm located in Indianapolis.

I troubleshooted and I think I located the issue. The cord to my temperature sensor for the Jandy has chew marks all over it that get to the internal wire in a few places and looks like it isn't working. As of a few days ago, the temperature in the pool always showed up on the control panel inside my house. Last night I was moving the wire around after I saw all the chew marks but its still in tact. However, today when I turn on the temp, it just shows air temp and never moves to water temp so suspect the water temperature sensor isn't functioning because of the chewed wire. If my system is already 15 years old and close to the end of its life, it sounds like it may be worth replacing as opposed to a stop-gap fix on the temperature sensor as I'll eventually need to replace the Jandy anyways.

Really appreciate the help. I recently bought a house with this spa so trying to learn what I can on how to care for it but wasn't left any information. Reached out to 10 different Jandy dealersand only got a response from 2.

 

[ajw22]

How to Determine the Revision of an Aqualink System​

If you have the Aqualink All-Button Panel then MENU -> SYSTEM SETUP(press ENTER) -> DIAGNOSTICS(press ENTER)

Jandy Aqualink RS - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[ajw22]

Call these folks and find out how much the upgrade kit costs…

Jandy iAquaLink 3.0 Web Connect Device

#IQ30-RS iAquaLink Web Connect Device Kit

www.tcpoolequipment.com

There is no need to entirely replace your Aqualink system. You need the upgrade kit and a new temperature sensor.