Aqualink control panel losing power

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OK so if @NewPoolGirlTX takes the white neutral from the transformer that leads to the left neutral bar and moves it to the middle terminal (marked N) on the new GFCI CB, then it will get the 120V power to work.
 
ajw22 said:
No, the control board is being powered by a pickoff from one leg of the 240V pump circuit.

And then the neutral for the control board transformer is going to the neutral bar.

Now with the GFCI CB that neutral from the control board transformer needs to go to the middle N screw on the GFCI CB.

The GFCI CB, as it is currently wired, has an imbalance between the legs causing a GFCI trip.
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So if I'm understanding, I move the white wire that is coming down from the top, move it from that left-hand bar of screws, move it to the neutral screw of the new CB

Correct?
Ima do that right after my coffee
 
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NewPoolGirlTX said:
So if I'm understanding, I move the white wire that is coming down from the top, move it from that left-hand bar of screws, move it to the neutral screw of the new CB

Correct?
Ima do that right after my coffee
Click to expand...

Yup.
 
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Now that you know how to do it will you replace the CB for your waterfall pump with GFCI?

And check if your pool light is GFCI protected?
 
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NewPoolGirlTX said:
I might! I've got a million other projects but it will go on my list :)
Click to expand...

I don't know the safety implications of the other things on the list but GFCI protection is important for electrical safety at the pool.
 
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ajw22 said:
I don't know the safety implications of the other things on the list but GFCI protection is important for electrical safety at the pool.
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One thing that makes me leery is that the black plastic mounting plate that the breakers snap into, is damaged. That electrical box faces west in the hot Texas sun and the plastic is pretty brittle after a few decades. If I replace the others, I'm thinking I need to replace that thing too so that it's all neat and tidy and the breakers are securely fastened. Can you tell me what that piece is called and where I might find a replacement, maybe?

I've been searching but so far, I haven't found anything.
 
NewPoolGirlTX said:
One thing that makes me leery is that the black plastic mounting plate that the breakers snap into, is damaged. That electrical box faces west in the hot Texas sun and the plastic is pretty brittle after a few decades. If I replace the others, I'm thinking I need to replace that thing too so that it's all neat and tidy and the breakers are securely fastened. Can you tell me what that piece is called and where I might find a replacement, maybe?

I've been searching but so far, I haven't found anything.
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I understand your situation.

The structure the circuit breaker snaps into is called the "bus bar".

Replacement bus bar parts are rarely sold. When a bus bar wears out the panel is usually replaced.

If you can find someone who is replacing their Compool panel and you can get theirs as a parts donor then you can remove the bus bar and put it in your panel. Assuming it is in good condition.

That old panel is not going to last forever. If this is your forever home You should plan on replacing that panel at some point.

Maybe @Ahultin @Mdragger88 @flynwill has ideas about replacing the bus bar.
 
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ajw22 said:
I understand your situation.

The structure the circuit breaker snaps into is called the "bus bar".

Replacement bus bar parts are rarely sold. When a bus bar wears out the panel is usually replaced.

If you can find someone who is replacing their Compool panel and you can get theirs as a parts donor then you can remove the bus bar and put it in your panel. Assuming it is in good condition.

That old panel is not going to last forever. If this is your forever home You should plan on replacing that panel at some point.

Maybe @Ahultin @Mdragger88 @flynwill has ideas about replacing the bus bar.
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Thank you, that's what I was afraid of. It is not my forever home, honestly, i can't wait to sell it but we'll be here another 2-5 years most likely. I'm not sure I'm handy enough to replace the entire thing, heck, I wouldn't even know what all I need to look for in a new one.

But I'll keep turning it around in my mind and see what I can figure out.
 
You did great so far.

Here is my thread on replacing a 20+ year old Aqualink panel with a Pentair IntelliCenter...

Replacing an Aqualink with an IntelliCenter

This thread is for me to work out what I do in upgrading my 20 year old pool equipment. Jandy RS8 automation, 1.5HP SS Pentair pump, Pentair Mastertemp 400 NG heater, IC40 SWG, typical pool/spa combo with spa spillover, Pentair JVA actuators on suctions & return Jandy valves, 1HP pump for spa...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

A new panel for you would be a Hayward OmniPL or a Pentair IntelliCenter.
 
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ajw22 said:
You did great so far.

Here is my thread on replacing a 20+ year old Aqualink panel with a Pentair IntelliCenter...

Replacing an Aqualink with an IntelliCenter

This thread is for me to work out what I do in upgrading my 20 year old pool equipment. Jandy RS8 automation, 1.5HP SS Pentair pump, Pentair Mastertemp 400 NG heater, IC40 SWG, typical pool/spa combo with spa spillover, Pentair JVA actuators on suctions & return Jandy valves, 1HP pump for spa...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

A new panel for you would be a Hayward OmniPL or a Pentair IntelliCenter.
Click to expand...
That looks like it might be above my skill level but should we decide to stay here, I will consider it. I found a Jandy Power Load Center Breaker Mount Base Plate that is new, and an older Siemens used plate, both of which look to be the right shape, but am not clear if my GE breakers will fit into them. The Jandy is $135, and the used one is $36. So far, that's all I can find to just replace that part.
 
I had to refer to the previous pics you posted but it looks like the plastic backing plate is what holds the actual bus bar (which is metal)on - looks like they are made together. The plate does look removable. Hopefully you can find an exact match & maybe some spare parts to boot to get you through a while longer
IMG_8214.jpeg
I haven’t read through the entire thread completely but wanted to mention if it hasn’t already been said - before attempting this replacement & fiddling around in there ensure the power to this panel is turned off at the source! Stay safe 😊
IMG_8106.jpeg
 
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Mdragger88 said:
I had to refer to the previous pics you posted but it looks like the plastic backing plate is what holds the actual bus bar (which is metal)on - looks like they are made together. The plate does look removable. Hopefully you can find an exact match & maybe some spare parts to boot to get you through a while longer
View attachment 540109
I haven’t read through the entire thread completely but wanted to mention if it hasn’t already been said - before attempting this replacement & fiddling around in there ensure the power to this panel is turned off at the source! Stay safe 😊
View attachment 540110
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Thank you!

I did find where to cut power to that entire box, which was the only way I'd try it, but I very much appreciate the reminder!!

I found two possible options for that mounting plate (plastic plus the bus and other metal attachments)

One video I watched said that different CBs don't always attach correctly in different boxes and I take that to mean different mounting plates.

My new CGFI CB and the single pole one in there are not attached securely on the plastic side, I think due to plastic breakage (brittle from the Texas heat)

Can anyone provide guidance on how to tell if the CBs will click into one of these the mounting plates?

One is $37 so maybe worth the risk but it's used. The new one, a jandy, is $135. I'm not sure how to tell if my new CB will click into it (I'll be replacing my two other CBs if I get a new plate)
 
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