Aqua Trol RJ - No Flow Light

[dant98]

I've got an older Aqua Trol system. I used it fine last season. This year when I power it on, I'm getting a power light and the No Flow light.
This is the Return Jet (RJ) model, so it isn't supposed to have a flow sensor, so I'm not sure what would send the no flow signal anyway.
For what it's worth, the flow is definitely good.
I read some threads indicating the model might not be set right. It's currently set to AL-0. The threads I saw mentioned that it should be AL-7 for return jet models, but my settings only go to AL-5 and circle back around.
The software version is r 1.45.

Does the cell itself have a built-in flow sensor that could be not working, or is this a problem with the control board?

 

[ajw22]

Yes, it needs to be AL-7.

Show us pics of your Aquatrol board.

 

[dant98]

Here are pictures of the boards.

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

It looks like a corrupted EEPROM data. There have been a few threads in this forum for the same issues with no known fix.
Reprogramming the U4 (93C46B) 16-bit Serial EEPROM should fix it. But I have not known anyone here who has gotten around it.
Try to call Hayward and see what they can do.

 

[dant98]

Dang. Being an old unit, I'm sure there isn't any warranty associated with it. I guess it depends if the cost and time is worth it vs replacing the board?
I assume for the Return Jet unit, you should never get a no flow light since it doesn't have a flow sensor.

 

[ajw22]

I assume for the Return Jet unit, you should never get a no flow light since it doesn't have a flow sensor.

Correct. The RJ unit hangs directly on the Return Jet and will not buildup hydrogen gas which can explode. So it does not care if it has flow or not.

 

[dant98]

I've got a couple more pieces of info to share. I don't know if it's relevant.
First, I also notice that while the no flow light is on, the power light is not. I think this is also unexpected behavior, but could there be a power problem that is messing with the board logic?
Second, I watched another video from someone that did have the flow sensor. According to them, Hayward support told them they could test the control board circuit vs the flow sensor by shorting the two pins in the RJ-11 terminal on the bottom of the unit. If the flow led starts to flash, then the unit is able to receive flow sensor data correctly. I tested this on my unit, and it did in fact flash when I shorted those pins. Any chance that for the RJ hayward just jumpers that circuit somewhere or shorts it internally to tell the board it has good flow? Heck, I could rig a telephone cable with those wires tied together to fake the system out if that's the case.
That said though, I imagine if the power light isn't on, there's other problems (unless that LED just happens to be bad).

 

[ajw22]

Is the internal timer on?

You can play around with the system and see what it will do.

 

[dant98]

I have the built in timer set to always on because I control it with a smart outlet instead.
I also want to check inside the unit again in the morning. I recall seeing what may be a loose jumper at the bottom of the casing. I don't know what it goes to if that's the case, but if it's supposed to jumper something, that could also be a problem. It's too dark outside here to be taking the cover off right now, so will check tomorrow.

In the mean time, I went ahead and ordered a replacement main board form Amazon. I figure if it turns out to not be a board failure, I can return it.

 

[dant98]

Updates:

• That was some broken black plastic that I saw, not a jumper.
• I tested the voltages as the Hayward diagnostics doc shows. All voltages and resistance values are within tolerance, so most probably the board.

I have a replacement board coming in today. Hopefully I just swap these out and am back in business.

 

[dant98]

Replacing the board looks to have fixed the problem. Now I can work on getting my salt level right.
It might be worth replacing the current limiter (a common problem on these boards) and see if it happens to just work? Given the cost of the board, if it turns out to be an easy fix and it's working again, maybe I can partially recoup the cost of the replacement board.

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

Replacing the board looks to have fixed the problem. Now I can work on getting my salt level right.
It might be worth replacing the current limiter (a common problem on these boards) and see if it happens to just work? Given the cost of the board, if it turns out to be an easy fix and it's working again, maybe I can partially recoup the cost of the replacement board.

Did you get the newest mainboard this time with sw r 1.47?
I don't think replacing the Thermistor will fix the problem that you're having with the old board. A T-5 cell does not put a heavy load on the thermistor as much as the T-15 does.
But if you would like to venture out, get an EEPROM programmer. Copy the EEPROM data from the new bd and reprogram U4 on the old bd. I think a starter EEPROM Programmer like this should work. I'm out of TROL pcb to tinker with and not sure if you have to unsolder the U4 to accomplish this. But remember, there are potential risks involved in performing this task. You're on your own on this!