Aqua Logic PS_4Control Board Repair Undertaking

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Jaimslaw

Jaimslaw

LifeTime Supporter
Jun 5, 2015
321
San Diego, CA
High salt level following adding salt to quickly is the likely cause of getting 0000 amp readings with no error message/light. But oddly, the 0000 amp reading kicks in after about 30 minutes of resetting it via the Diagnostic menu. Resetting it gets me all normal readings …then its back to the 0000 amps. Ruled out the T-15 and flow switch (have 2 working cells to troubleshoot). Its almost like the cell goes into a time out, as would be the case when the cell on percentage is set to, say, 20% (issue occurs at 100% ..or any other setting).

Turned the control board over and found burn spots on one K2 relay pin pad and the same pin pad of the K3 relay. Also, seemed like there is a little burn mark on one of the pin pads of the K1 relay, which evidently is not uncommon when subjected to a high voltage spike. I did a resolder of all three pin pads but the issue still persists. Have replacements on the way for the K2 and K3 so will replace those to see if that works. Might do the same for the K1 relay.

My question is whether or not the issue lies with the component that determines when the cell goes into an inactive state (as when a low percentage setting of the chlorinator requires this to occur). My fear is that the relays to be replaced are not the cause of this problem, even though hi salt levels will induce high current and fry components …or in a related sense, cause solder on the pin to dislodge and lack contact of relays, etc.

Oh…and these replacement relays are now discontinued so replacements are going to be used (not willing to risk “new” relays that come on a boat from a couple of non rated sellers in China). Some sell what are claimed to be compatible relays but dubious about going that route.

Hoping my board is not one of those where the problem fails to be resolved with the more commonplace repair methods as seen on several youtube vids …and on this forum (e.g., resoldering a pin lossened by high heat caused by a voltage spike when a lot of salt gets sent through the salt cell).5DF7C1B7-D81D-4A36-AA69-4271A145015B.jpeg
 

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Most often it is just a solder issue. I would try to refloat all of the suspected solder joints first to see if that is the issue. You might need to bridge some of those to good parts of the copper trace to make sure you have a good connection. If that does not work then it could be a relay. Most often is the k1 that goes bad but it could be the others as well.
 
I’ll scrap away a little part of the trace and give the resoldering another go…since removing those relays is harder (5 pin pads to desolder, all have to be done in unison to free the pins). In all the research, I’ve not come across anyone with my issue, ai get good readings on both polarities, but only for 20 minutes, after which they go to zero. Moreover, I can get back to good readings right after they go to zeros (resetting vis the Diagnostic menu), again, only lasts 20 minutes. Bizarre.
 
Heat can make metal warp and bend over time. A poor solder joint or a relay contact that are partially damaged could be affected by this so to me, it is not very surprising that it behaves that way.
 
K1 is the primary relay that energizes the cell. K2 & K3 swap polarity. So K1 gets most of the "spark" when the relay closes. K2 & K3 are already in position before K1 turns on so should not get the same wear as K1 does.
 
So here’s a new development. I decided to try setting it to Super Chlorinate mode (24 hr) to see if the amps/volts/ppm readout issue still occurs,(that issue being normal readings for 20 minutes, then all zeros….which I can get back to normal operation by reversing the polarity via the Diagnostic menu, only to have it revert once again to all zeros 20 minutes later). To my surprise, while in Super Chlorinate mode all levels were perfectly normal….ran it for 2+ hours without the issue showing up. It was also properly cycling through (changing) polarity at regular intervals. In sum, the problem does not occur when running in Super Chlorination mode.

Geez, what conclusions and deductions can be drawn from this? Seems to rule out a stuck, malfunctioning , loose solder with the K1, K2 and/or K3 relays. Were any of those malfunctioning, the zero amp/volt/ppm problem would likely present itself at some point while operating in Super Chlorination mode.

One deduction is that its related to a malfunction of the component that cycles the chlorinator off and on in connection with the percentage of time one sets the chlorinator to run, almost as though it is unable to make the call to the Chlorinator to commence operating after the end if its interval of down time (as is determined by the percentage of Chlorinator time it has been set to run).

FWIW, I do recall a few weeks ago definitely smelling the all too familiar odor of an overheating component. But what overheated? I know the K1 pin pads show signs of this…but its not likely that the problem lay with the K2 and K3 relays because the polarity reversals are performing fine when running in Super Chlorinator mode.

One could reasonably deduce that while running in Super Chlorinator mode, the problematic component is bypassed. But I’m stumped to figure out what that component would be ….other than whatever component is associated with setting of the percentage set for the Chlorinators run time. I fear that may not be a serviceable/replaceable component (maybe like a crystal???).

The quest continues (to avoid overheating of plastic in having to replace this board). I’d be curious to know if anyone has any suggestions or possible troubleshooting steps.
 
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What % output is it set to when you get it running for normal readings for 20 minutes, then all zeros?

Does it still fail after 20 minutes is the % is 20% or 80%?
 
I would caution about making any conclusions based upon just one test. Thermal issues can be quite random.

BTW, what are the chlorinator readings (volts,amps,salt,temp) in the diagnostics menu when it is on?

Does this change over time? Can you watch these values as it approaches the 20 min mark?

After it shuts off, are there any messages on the main display?

When was the last time you cleaned the cell?

I would try it a second time on super chlorinate and then if that does not stop at 20 min, run again at 100% which should be the same operating conditions. The only difference is super chlorinate uses a timer (i.e. logic control). As far as the power section is concerned, there is no difference. Same components are used.
 
Readings when operating: 25.76V / 4.97A / 3200ppm /56 degrees
Minor/normal fluctuations, but no drop in readings just prior to zeroing out. No messages/lights. Lights and error messages were tested and work (lowered flow and got low flow message and lite; disconnected cell power, got no cell error message). I have two cells - tested both at store. I also checked to make sure no timer/clock issues were involved ….as some have experienced with their boards not keeping time. This was tested since Super Chlorination and Chlorination Percentage settings are a function of cell run time (poss. wonky timer turning off cell before the time called for by the Chlorination Percentage setting???).

I did notice today that the time it is zeroing out is getting progressively shorter (percentage setting at 100); perhaps due to so many resetting/reversing polarity exercises on my part, which I suppose could be taxing a weak relay. But I’m still perplexed by the absence of any issues while running in Super Chlorination mode (today, 5 hrs). Having difficulty reconciling a faulty relay shutting down the cell on one setting (100% Chlorination) but not another (Super Chlorination).

So I’ve committed to swapping out all three relays ($8 ea.). Will prolly start with just the K1, then put board back in, and go from there.

Other than this issue the board is fine (as in “Except for the shooting Mrs. Lincoln, how did you like the play?).
 

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NOTE: Output is scaled back to 20% or lower (depending on where the dial is set) at 60°F and chlorine production stops altogether at 50°F.

The percentage becomes 20% of the setting.

100% becomes 20%.

50% becomes 10% etc.
 
Typo. It should read "Output is scaled back by 20%". But it could be different for ProLogic and AquaRite. Those are not AquaLogic references.

But again, I have an AquaLogic v2.86 and I have tested this many times. It scales back by 20% (0.8x). I have owned my pool with an AquaLogic for almost 20 years now and I think I know how it works.

Plus it makes no sense to scale it back by 80%. That is way too much for temperature.
 
ProLogic is basically the same thing as AquaLogic.

I am pretty sure that the output is 20% of the setting.

100% becomes 20%.

@Jaimslaw can confirm if the chlorinator turns off at 24 to 36 minutes.

This seems to be consistent with what they are reporting is happening.

The original cycle time was 120 minutes and it was changed to 180 minutes 5/8/2009.

So, the cycle time might be 120 or 180 minutes depending on when the unit was made.

What is the date of the unit?

What is the software revision?

Can you show the label from the inside of the front door?

Goldline introduced AquaLogic in 2003.

Hayward acquired Goldline in August of 2004.

Hayward discontinued AquaLogic in 2008 and replaced it with Hayward ProLogic.

The cycle time for AquaLogic should be 120 minutes for all units.

So, at a 100% setting, the unit should cycle off at 24 minutes.

With Firmware Revision 1.55 (5/8/2009) the cycle time (reversal of polarity) changed from 120 minutes (2 hrs) to 180 minutes (3 hrs).

When you set the ‘Desired Output %’ dial on the main panel this sets the level of salt cell operation as a percent of the operating time of each cycle. 50% is the factory default.

Below are simple examples for 2 and 3 hr cycle times.

• 2 hr cycle: If the output is set at 50% and the total time for operation is 8 hrs, the salt cell will operate (and produce chlorine) for 50% (1 hr) of each 2hr cycle for a total of 4 hrs.

• 3 hr cycle: If the output is set at 50% and the total time for operation is 9 hrs, the salt cell will operate (and produce chlorine) for 50% (1.5 hrs) of each 3 hrs cycle for a total of 4.5 hrs.
Click to expand...
 
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