All New Equipment

[nrobfd_pl]

I'm 90% of the way done with replacing my equipment.

Before:
Pentair Superflo Single Speed
Pentair Sand Filter

After:
Pentair Intellicenter
Pentair Intelliflo 3
Pentair Clean and Clear Plus 520
Pentair IC60
Pentair MasterTemp 400

Mainly, checking to see if there are any obvious errors I need to fix or other things I should do now while I'm in the midst of it.

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• nrobfd_pl
• Feb 13, 2023

 

[Texas Splash]

Just a little bit of work there. Very nice!

 

[HermanTX]

I also see you put in a heater bypass. And good use of all diverted valves.
Just curious, I see a 3 way valve on the suction side but just a single pipe for a return that splits.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Rob,

Ok, you were just trying to trick me, weren't you?

I kept looking for the IC60 and 'almost' replied that you had left it out...

Pretty tricky...

A great job..

You will smile to yourself every time you walk past your equipment page.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[pjt]

Pentair Intellicenter
Pentair Intelliflo 3
Pentair Clean and Clear Plus 520
Pentair IC60
Pentair MasterTemp 400

That's superb equipment.

Nice work on the plumbing! Ball valves replaced with diverters, heater bypass, etc.. I'm guessing there's no practical way to replace the flex PVC with rigid. What are the PVC elbows coming out of the house above the heater?

 

[nrobfd_pl]

I also see you put in a heater bypass. And good use of all diverted valves.
Just curious, I see a 3 way valve on the suction side but just a single pipe for a return that splits.

Yeah, before starting, I thought the returns split off under ground closer to the pool. I didn't know I would have access to them. Needed to wrap up things this week so I just left it how it was except for 2" pipe running to them. In the future, I might split them off and add a valve (It will give me something to do next Spring!)

 

[nrobfd_pl]

That's superb equipment.

Nice work on the plumbing! Ball valves replaced with diverters, heater bypass, etc.. I'm guessing there's no practical way to replace the flex PVC with rigid. What are the PVC elbows coming out of the house above the heater?

Replacing the flex would require a whole lot of digging. Not doing that until it's necessary.

The PVC coming out of the house is a vent & intake for a tankless hot water heater.

 

[Ahultin]

The PVC coming out of the house is a vent & intake for a tankless hot water heater.

I believe per the mastertemp manual your exhaust needs to be at least 3ft above another appliances intake air vent within a 10ft radius

 

[nrobfd_pl]

I believe per the mastertemp manual your exhaust needs to be at least 3ft above another appliances intake air vent within a 10ft radius

Yes, it does. They heater isn't operational yet. Gas line hasn't been run / connected. My HVAC guy wasn't concerned about the vents though. I'll follow up.

 

[Ahultin]

Yes, it does. They heater isn't operational yet. Gas line hasn't been run / connected. My HVAC guy wasn't concerned about the vents though. I'll follow up.

Theoretically this would impact your water heater (only while both where operational at the same time) as the intake air will have a lower concentration of o2 negatively impacting combustion. The easiest (though not very pretty) solution would be to raise the intake (most likely the smaller 2" pvc). Flip the sweep 90 up, stick a 10' piece of pipe on it then a double 90 to keep it from catching rainwater

 

[nrobfd_pl]

Theoretically this would impact your water heater (only while both where operational at the same time) as the intake air will have a lower concentration of o2 negatively impacting combustion. The easiest (though not very pretty) solution would be to raise the intake (most likely the smaller 2" pvc). Flip the sweep 90 up, stick a 10' piece of pipe on it then a double 90 to keep it from catching rainwater

Does "theoretically" mean that it might not actually impact the water heater? Possible? Plausible? Probable?

 

[Ahultin]

Does "theoretically" mean that it might not actually impact the water heater? Possible? Plausible? Probable?

It will impact it, the question is will the impact be low enough to not cause any negative implications. I have a noritz tankless that does somewhere around 196,000 BTU's. The suction on the intake air pipe is pretty significant. I also have a mastertemp 400 and the exhaust is significant (much more so than i expected). For me, I anticipate staying in our current home until I am gone and install for max longevity, as such I believe that the impact would be enough that I would extend the intake. That said, in full disclosure, i have been known to follow what if's fairly far down the rabbit hole lol

 

[Ahultin]

to add 1 more, assuming your foundation stones are 3x6, your already about 5ft from the heater to intake so it would likely only need a 5ft piece of 2" pvc and 2 pvc 90's to get it outside of the 10ft radius. I imagine you have these sitting in a pile somewhere from the recent replumb

 

[nrobfd_pl]

to add 1 more, assuming your foundation stones are 3x6, your already about 5ft from the heater to intake so it would likely only need a 5ft piece of 2" pvc and 2 pvc 90's to get it outside of the 10ft radius. I imagine you have these sitting in a pile somewhere from the recent replumb

Unfortunately, I'm a planner. Only had 2 sections about 5" long left

 

[nrobfd_pl]

I have a tiny leak at a fitting. Is there a good way to fix without disassembling?

 

[Ahultin]

Looks like that is in your long down to the returns. if you disconnect the union at the salt cell spacer you should be able to use a heat gun carefully on that joint to break it free, clean it back up with light sandpaper and reglue.
Though this could also be the universe telling you to go ahead and valve the returns lol

In the future, I might split them off and add a valve (It will give me something to do next Spring!)

 

[HermanTX]

I have a tiny leak at a fitting. Is there a good way to fix without disassembling?

View attachment 483961

For short term repair - try plumbers epoxy putty around that joint. turn off pool to let it sit. read instructions for time to harden.

 

[nrobfd_pl]

Looks like that is in your long down to the returns. if you disconnect the union at the salt cell spacer you should be able to use a heat gun carefully on that joint to break it free, clean it back up with light sandpaper and reglue.
Though this could also be the universe telling you to go ahead and valve the returns lol

Could this be the cause of growing bubbles in the pump lid?

 

[Ahultin]

Could this be the cause of growing bubbles in the pump lid?

Isnt that pipe going to your returns? if so, no, bubbles in the pump lid would be a suctions side leak. That being said, depends on the size bubble. My VS pump produces a mid size bubble while running at slow rpm's which then goes away, for the most part, when pump speed ramps up. Any bubbles coming out of your returns?
Have you lubed the 0-rings on the pump lid and pump unions?

 

[nrobfd_pl]

Isnt that pipe going to your returns? if so, no, bubbles in the pump lid would be a suctions side leak. That being said, depends on the size bubble. My VS pump produces a mid size bubble while running at slow rpm's which then goes away, for the most part, when pump speed ramps up. Any bubbles coming out of your returns?
Have you lubed the 0-rings on the pump lid and pump unions?

Yes, the pipe is going to the returns. This morning the bubble covered almost the whole clear part of the lid. Speed overnight was 1200rpm.

This morning I stopped the pump, emptied the baskets and restarted the pump at 1900rpm. Here are the bubbles now:


No bubbles out of the returns.

I’ll lube the o-rings and see if that helps.