Algae help!

[RenewATL]

You can't do any accurate chemicals changes until the test kit arrives. For now, simply continue to add a gallon each day as advised above. You can/should brush daily to help agitate any potential algae and to help get dirt/debris to the skimmer and ultimately the filter. If your filter pressure increases by about 25%, it's time to clean it. Once you receive the test kit, post a full set of results. That's when we can really get accurate about the next steps.

In the meantime, also take a moment to update your signature. See mine as an example.

Hi, I was hoping that you could give me some input based on the test results that I posted here yesterday? Thank you.

 

[PoolStored]

Sooo...I went back and double checked. TF and Taylor both use Phenol Red, packaged as R-014 and R-004. 4 in the TF and the daily Taylor. R-014 for the K2006. R-004 in the TF, and is correct. I was mistaken. I apologize...I'm just so used to using 14...it is in my head.

Here is my test. Note the line that I filled it to. Why don't you try it again and see what we get.

 

[PoolStored]

The best thing you can do is raise your chlorine level to match your CYA. FC/CYA Levels

You can use PoolMath to figure out how much liquid chlorine to raise your FC to 5-7 (based on your CYA level and the FC/CYA Levels). SWCG is really good at maintaining FC, not so much raising it. Then it you can set your SWCG to maintain a 5-7 level daily.

Still confused on what is going on with the pH. Look forward to your retest.

 

[Texas Splash]

I have recorded as follows: chlorine 1.2 ppm, combine chloramines 0.1 ppm, calcium hardness 175 ppm, total alkalinity 60, CYA 40, salt water test 2,800.

The TF Pro and TF-100 both use the R-0014. So I would agree - do the pH test again since it sure seems low. Too low and odd based on a fairly good TA of 60. If you confirm the pH to be below 7.2, add 20 ppm worth of baking soda to raise the TA to about 80. That "should" help allow the pH to rise. Also add some liquid chlorine right away. I would add about 5 ppm of FC now. Re-test everything in a few hours.

 

[RenewATL]

Sooo...I went back and double checked. TF and Taylor both use Phenol Red, packaged as R-014 and R-004. 4 in the TF and the daily Taylor. R-014 for the K2006. R-004 in the TF, and is correct. I was mistaken. I apologize...I'm just so used to using 14...it is in my head.

Here is my test. Note the line that I filled it to. Why don't you try it again and see what we get.

View attachment 409561

OK here’s the redo of the daily test at five drops of the R –0600 to the Yellow side and five drops of the R –0014 to the red side.

 

[magiteck]

OK here’s the redo of the daily test at five drops of the R –0600 to the Yellow side and five drops of the R –0014 to the red side.

That looks to me like Chlorine > 5, and pH about 7.2.

 

[RenewATL]

That looks to me like Chlorine > 5, and pH about 7.2.

Thank you. In addition, my salt order generator is showing low salt and I have not added any because the moderators have suggested not doing that until they see my test results which I have posted. So now the question is what do I do to raise the levels to get this pool clear and ready for swimming? Thank you

 

[magiteck]

So I receive my Pro salt test kit and I have recorded as follows: chlorine 1.2 ppm, combine chloramines 0.1 ppm, calcium hardness 175 ppm, total alkalinity 60, CYA 40, salt water test 2,800.

I also performed the daily test for chlorine and pH but I think the ranges are way out of whack… please see the attached image for input. I

Fireback please, I can handle it! Ty

Thank you. In addition, my salt order generator is showing low salt and I have not added any because the moderators have suggested not doing that until they see my test results which I have posted. So now the question is what do I do to raise the levels to get this pool clear and ready for swimming? Thank you

OK, so your salt tested at 2800ppm. From what I’m reading, the IC-40 is designed to function between 2800-4500ppm salt. It’s possible you’re just a bit below 2800 (still within the margin of error for the test). It’s also possible that your salt cell has gone bad.

I would add 2 40lb bags of salt, which should bump your 21000 gallon pool by about 460ppm. Let that mix for a day, test your salt level again, and see if the SWG is happy.

 

[RenewATL]

OK, so your salt tested at 2800ppm. From what I’m reading, the IC-40 is designed to function between 2800-4500ppm salt. It’s possible you’re just a bit below 2800 (still within the margin of error for the test). It’s also possible that your salt cell has gone bad.

I would add 2 40lb bags of salt, which should bump your 21000 gallon pool by about 460ppm. Let that mix for a day, test your salt level again, and see if the SWG is happy.

Thank you, so I did another water test as well as I took a picture of the pool and the water starting to get clearer. However I think based on the chlorine test that it’s pretty high I believe. Let me know what you guys think thank you.

 

[crusemm]

what does the FAS-DPD chlorine test read?

 

[magiteck]

Thank you, so I did another water test as well as I took a picture of the pool and the water starting to get clearer. However I think based on the chlorine test that it’s pretty high I believe. Let me know what you guys think thank you.

what does the FAS-DPD chlorine test read?

pH now looks a bit closer to 7.5; still fine there.

The color of the chlorine indicator still just looks like what I'd call "above 5". That test using the comparator block isn't really good for much other than to tell you "yep, there's chlorine in there". To get the actual free chlorine reading as crusemm indicates you'll want to use the FAS-DPD test that came in your kit. Instructions should be on that same card. That will tell us your exact free chlorine reading, to within 0.5ppm.

Since your water is not clear, you're going to want to follow the SLAM Process. For your CYA of 40, SLAM level chlorine is 16ppm, as shown on the FC/CYA Levels. That means you're going to want to dose manually with chlorine to get your pool up to 16ppm, and test as often as practical (but at least a few times each day) to ensure you're keeping the level there. When the pool looks clear and you think you're winning the battle, then it's time to do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to confirm that the algae/organics are 100% defeated. Once you confirm that, you can let the chlorine drift back down to 5-7ppm, and then maintain in there with your (hopefully working!) SWG.

 

[RenewATL]

what does the FAS-DPD chlorine test read?

Has a pool novice, can you tell me what test that is and how do I perform it? Thank you

 

[magiteck]

Has a pool novice, can you tell me what test that is and how do I perform it? Thank you

FAS-DPD Chlorine Test

The FAS-DPD chlorine test is used to find the level of Free Chlorine in the … Read more…

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[crusemm]

Has a pool novice, can you tell me what test that is and how do I perform it? Thank you

 

[crusemm]

Since your water is not clear, you're going to want to follow the SLAM Process. For your CYA of 40, SLAM level chlorine is 16ppm, as shown on the FC/CYA Levels. That means you're going to want to dose manually with chlorine to get your pool up to 16ppm, and test as often as practical (but at least a few times each day) to ensure you're keeping the level there. When the pool looks clear and you think you're winning the battle, then it's time to do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to confirm that the algae/organics are 100% defeated. Once you confirm that, you can let the chlorine drift back down to 5-7ppm, and then maintain in there with your (hopefully working!) SWG.

You need to read and do this. You still have live active algae in your pool. You have to first kill it with the SLAM, then remove it with your filter. It will take about a week (roughly) the more consistent you are with the chlorine level early in the process, the faster it goes.

 

[RenewATL]

Okay this morning‘s pool test is as follows FC 1.55, no cc’s, calcium hardness 200, total alkalinity 50, CYA 30, salt water test 4000. Pool is looking a lot clearer and have not cleaned pool with vacuum this last week.

 

[crusemm]

Okay this morning‘s pool test is as follows FC 1.55, no cc’s, calcium hardness 200, total alkalinity 50, CYA 30, salt water test 4000. Pool is looking a lot clearer and have not cleaned pool with vacuum this last week.

That's a weird FC. with the DPD test, it should be in .5 increments. Also, that FC is way to low to be doing what you need it to. SLAM Process requires that you have a minimum FC of 12 for a CYA of 30. IF you want to get your pool crystal clear, you have to follow the process. Your SWG will not be able to produce enough Cl on it's own, so you will have to add Liquid Chlorine (LC, otherwise known as bleach) in order to reach that FC level. If you have any organic debris in your pool (leaves, muck), you need to work on getting that out so the FC can work on the algae, and not that stuff.