About to begin a self-install..Questions

Updated pics. I decided to pour my top footer for coping stone before installing liner. Hopefully , Ill get a warm day for that before winter sets in. Don't hold back, let me know anything you guys see wrong. Remember this is my first install. By the way, I hired out the block work for pool house.
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I'm confused about the top footer for the coping. I assume that you are going to have a paver patio around the pool. All of the PBs in my area are pitching the idea of a 4 foot "sub-deck" around the pool. The coping is glued on this sub-deck and the pavers placed behind them in a bit of sand. They say that there will be a 3 foot "overdig" from the pool. The four foot skirt covers this "overdig" so that the paver base for the rest of the patio (beyond the 4 foot sub-deck) area can be installed on undisturbed soil. They contend that this is necessary because you cannot adequately compact the base for a paver patio adjacent to a steel walled pool. They say that attempting proper compaction will bow out the walls of the pool.

So I'm confused...as to how this works.

Any guidance is appreciated.
 
I backfilled my overdig with gravel and compacted in lifts which should achieve 98-99 percent compaction. My coping footer was poured on top of that as pictured. I am going to install pavers, but I wanted a larger piece of stone as the coping. Also I could not find a nice looking bullnose paver that wouls be comfortable to sit on. I chose a concrete step tread that has the appearance of travertine. I will finish in the next few days and post pics. I have installed many pavers before and if you get compacted rock underneath, they are not going anywhere.
 
Well I have the liner installed..kinda. I only had one glitch with the install so far. When the water reached waist level about 6-7" of the liner came outof the track. With some help I was able to get it back in, but not easily with the water weight. I have water up to the start of the shallow end and temps fell drastically in the 40s and rain. I think I should wait til it warms a bit or at least the sun shines to continue filling. What does everyone else say? By the way I am liking the water color, kinda turquoise. One more thing. Does anyone think I should go ahead and add some bleach to the water? FC is 0. The rest of my fill numbers aren't handy at the moment.

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This is a little off point at the moment since i am still filling and do not have a pad ready but whilie it is on my mind, I thought I'd throw it out there. I was thinking of installing a check valve just prior to the pump inlet. Any reason not to do so?
 
You might consider adding some liner lock to that section that came out.

A check valve ususally isn't needed and adds to the head loss of the system. I usually recommend against them unless it's absolutely needed.
 
Bama Rambler said:
You might consider adding some liner lock to that section that came out.

A check valve ususally isn't needed and adds to the head loss of the system. I usually recommend against them unless it's absolutely needed.

Ok, I'll leave room to add if needed. On the liner lock, does anyone know if it is made in gray? I haven't been able to find it anywhere. I hate the look of the bright white.
 

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I bought the same 10' roman steps. When they were installed flush with the pool wall, the steps pitched toward the pool. Thus the top of the steps at the back of the steps (at the apex of the curve) are about 1.25 inches above the top at the pool wall. Did you compensate for this somehow? I'm thinking that there will be a problem when I install the coping blocks. If I set on step they will slope toward the pool. The rest of the deck, of course, will need to slop away from the pool. I guess you could attach to the concrete deck and leave a gap and caulk it. Just wondered if you had this issue and how you addressed it.
 
wpbucher said:
I bought the same 10' roman steps. When they were installed flush with the pool wall, the steps pitched toward the pool. Thus the top of the steps at the back of the steps (at the apex of the curve) are about 1.25 inches above the top at the pool wall. Did you compensate for this somehow? I'm thinking that there will be a problem when I install the coping blocks. If I set on step they will slope toward the pool. The rest of the deck, of course, will need to slop away from the pool. I guess you could attach to the concrete deck and leave a gap and caulk it. Just wondered if you had this issue and how you addressed it.

I did have a little problem with that, but not as bad as yours. I split the difference and caulked underneath. It helped having a mortar bed with the coping stone.
 
Brick finished on pool house. In the process of adding fiberglass colums. I hope to finish that today and start metal and gutter work tomorrow. I know it seems i'm going slow, but doing most of the work by my lonesome self. Maybe start pavers in two weeks-weather permitting. I'll post pics of columns when done. Hope i'm done before summer!

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Any closeup pics of how you did the coping? I cant decide on pavers or concrete? I took some paver classes a few years ago and feel I might could do pavers as cheap on my own as subbing out concrete. I am just south of you in Huntsville and I have family in Clarksville. Nice build!
 

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