A Canadian Please and Thank you!!

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Great! I'm not sure the remaining tests matter just now, since we're dealing with an algae situation.

I'm not sure correcting Ph by .2 is going to matter here, an expert may be along to correct me on that point shortly.

I'll wait for an expert to come along to see if we should be testing for ammonia before adding stabilizer and performing a SLAM. Hold tight for a short bit and let's see if someone can give you the correct next step. I'm still a newbie here myself so I don't want to steer you wrong. :)
 
Oooh Weeee! Those are some alarming numbers. Here's what I want you to try for me:
- Focus on FC only for the moment. Using the Poolmath calculator, add enough bleach to get to an FC of 10. Let it mix for 10 minutes then test again. If it dropped below 5, then I suspect you have an ammonia issue in that water. That would explain the extremely high CC level, no CYA recording, and FC disappearing so fast. But do that test first then report back please in about 10 minutes.
 
If what I understand is correct, I can probably leave pH as is for now given that liquid chlorine will raise pH, also I need to star by adding about 6 lb of stabilizer given that the CYA seems to be almost zero and the sizeof the pool. I then need to add liquid chlorine but I am not sure how much since CC> 30PPM. I am confused about this part. Any thoughts?

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ah, ok, I did not see your post. I am going through it now.
 
Don't add any stabilizer at this time! If you have ammonia in the water, the stabilizer (CYA) will disappear as will and only feed the ammonia. It's a beast. We need you to try that 10-min FC test first to see what you are up against.

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Great! :goodjob:
 
To go from zero FC to 10 FC is just under 2.5 gallons of 8.25% bleach. If you use 10% bleach it's about 2 gallons and 2 cups (269 ounces). That's just to get to an FC of 10 for the initial test (let's just say 3 gallons). If the FC disappears as fast as I think it might (confirming ammonia), then we (you) have a decision to make ...... keep the existing water and add bleach every 10 minutes to keep FC at 10 until it "breaks" that fever in your water, OR..... if the amount of bleach becomes too excessive/costly you may consider a partial drain to replace with fresh water. You would still have to do the 10-min drill when re-filled, but maybe not as long. Just hard to tell how bad your water is until you start.

Doing that 10-min drill might take several attempts to break the ammonia chain, then you would have to continue with a regular "SLAM" after that to clear the remaining algae. So I would estimate you would need at least 15 or so gallons of bleach to start. You might have to go back and get more in a day or two, but that's a rough estimate. Best I can do from my position.
 
Thank you. This is very helpful. I will go get 20 gallons of liquid chlorine now. And will post when I start the process.

Just thinking, since it looks like I will require these high amounts, does it make sense I try to get some more concentrated form of chlorine for this time around?

In preparation for the SLAM process later, should I also get the 6 lb of stabilizer for later?
 

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If you have various resources in your area to get a higher concentration, sometimes that is helpful as long as the chlorine is not old. Higher percentages tend to decrease in strength a bit faster. But generally, whatever is best for your pocketbook to save money will work for us. :)

And yes, if you have no stabilizer, definitely get some for when we're finished with this first part. Granular stabilizer is always cheaper than liquid stabilizer/conditioner and works just as well.
 
Some pet or fish stores may have an ammonia test kit you can buy. You're welcome to try it if you like. In the end, if it is ammonia, the choices are basically the same - treat the water as-is with continual doses of chlorine to maintain an FC between 5-10 for a few (10) minutes, or do a partial drain first, then do the 10-min drill and SLAM.

Also, if your pH is still about 7.0-7.2, that's perfect. If it is over 7.5 you might want to get some muriatic acid to lower pH in the future.
 
That's good about the pH. So when you get ready, just focus on that FC for now. Use the Poolmath calculator and/or estimates we spoke of earlier, then enough bleach to get to an FC of 10. Let it mix for 10 minutes then test again right away. If it dropped below 5, then I suspect you have an ammonia issue in that water. That would explain the extremely high CC level, no CYA recording, and FC disappearing so fast. But do that test first then report back please in about 10 minutes.

When you test your FC, make sure you are using the 10ml sample size and one heaping scoop of powder. Count the number of drops to go from Barbie pink to clear and divide by 2. Example: 14 drops = FC of 7.
 
Hi again, I added a little more liquid chlorine by mistake, I added 3.3 gallons of 10.3% strength. Anyway, there does not seem to be any loss, I tested 10 minutes later and it was 14ppm FC. I hope you can make sense of it, because I can not. I will wait to hear back from you before doing anything further. Thank you for all your help.
 
That's great! Woo! Okay then, now you can maintain an FC of 12 and add stabilizer for a CYA target of 30. For stabilizer, that would be 84 ounces (5 lbs, 4 ounces) of granular stabilizer, or 218 ounces (1 gal, 2 quarts, and 3 cups) of the liquid stuff. I would use the granular. :)
To increase CYA via granular stabilizer, place the required amount as calculated by the Poolmath calculator into a white sock and place in the poolside skimmer basket. For those concerned about suction flow to the pump, suspending the sock near a return jet or from a floating device will also suffice. Best never to allow undissolved granules to rest directly against the pool surface. Squeeze the sock periodically to help it dissipate. Once dissolved, consider your CYA adjusted to that programmed (target) level. CYA test readings should show a rise in 24-48 hours, however some pools may experience a longer delay to fully register. Best to confirm final CYA in about 5-7 days before adding any more stabilizer/conditioner.
Click to expand...

Once you add that stabilizer for your CYA, you are officially in "SLAM mode".. Make sure to read the SLAM page everyday (link below) to stay fresh on what you need to do. If you see anything odd happen in the next day or so, let us know. But remember, on day 1 it is still very important to test and adjust FC often to maintain that FC of 12. You might check every 30 min, then back-off to about an hour, then 3-4 hrs after that once it starts to hold better.
 
Funny!! We keep typing at the same time. Mostly my fault. Sorry about that.

Wonderful!!! So this is good news !!!! I will go through the Stabilizer now!

I suppose if all goes well with the SLAM, I should be taking most of that liquid chlorine I bought back to the store, right? I have no problem with that.
 

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