Green pool, I'm losing faith in the fight!!

I've bought it before. I believe it's 6%. Brand really doesn't matter most of the time only the %. AND the manufacture date. Usually on the side of the bottle there will be a number similar to 04114 or something similar. That number for instance would mean it was made on the 41st day of 2014, so fairly fresh, made in February this year. The stronger the bleach is, the faster it degrades. See here: http://www.odysseymanufacturing.com/about_product.htm (thanks chem geek)
 
Thank you I'll read through those, nice calculator too.

yva6ymad.jpg


Down to about 7" now.

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What a sight for sore eyes!!!

CYA - <40
Ph - 7.5
Alk - 50

According to the calculator I'm looking to add ~14 lbs of baking soda to get the TA up and then start SLAMing this afternoon!!

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The baking soda will dissolve and mix really fast. I wouldn't delay much. As soon as you stop seeing powder on the surface, get with the bleach.
 

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I'm not sure what you mean, I usually add bicarb into the pool right at the return, I'm not sure I've ever seen "powder on the surface"

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I was assuming you followed the procedure given in Recommended Pool Chemicals: "Baking soda can be added by spreading it across the surface of the deep end of the pool."

If it's dissolved to where you no longer can see it, you're good to go.
 
sometimes the pool stores sell "liquid shock" in 3 or 5 gallon carboys of 12%. Usually need to put a small deposit on the carboy, but I've found this to be good option on occasion. that, cya and toys is all I get there though!
 
Hi CDkoster,
the liquid shock is nothing more than 10 or 12% sodium hypchlorite. Its bleach and nothing more.
the best way to know its a good deal is to use the chlorine calculator that someone linked up for you earlier.

Recommend to call the Pool Store on the phone and ask if they have any before going. If you DO go, do NOT buy anything other than the high % liquid sodium hypochlorite! No more of that powder stuff for you! :)

Nice job on bringing that CYA down!
With CYA of 40, your FC shock level is 16ppm
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock

You can calculate how much liquid sodium hypochlorite to add using pool math.

The SLAM is not a one time treatment. You need to get your FC to shock level and keep it there until you pass the 3 slam criteria
1. Overnight Chlorine Loss Test (OCLT)
2. Your CC is < .05
3. You water is clear and you can see the bottom.

It may take several days to completely clear your pool of algae. So, get lots of bleach or liquid shock.
The first day is the most critical. Your FC will not last long at all. Not. at. all. So test every hour or so and bring FC back to slam.

I am concerend also that your Taylor test kit may not have enough FAS-DPD chlorine test regents to complete the slam. Its gonna take a lot of it to measure the FC as often as you will have to. You can get refills at www.tftestkits.net. Doubtful a pool store will have it, but I suppose you can call and ask.

One last note. Once the FC is above 10, the PH test will be invalid. High FC screws the Ph test up, so disregard it.

Good luck, you are well on your way to getting troublefree.
 
So excited to follow this thread! Cdkoster, I had cya over 100 several months ago..did a few partial drains then we had lots of rain, then dum dum here forgot to turn the water hose off last week and it ran for h o u r s....ended up w cya 30. Like mine at 40 due to AL sun. Keeps my FC at a steady 5.... Good luck. Can't wait to see more pics!
 
Hopefully so. If not, then maintain a reasonable FC level from not until you can get some more regents.

FWIW, dont worry too much about the TA levels for purpose of slamming. Your good with that 12 lbs.
Focus on getting your pH to 7.2, and getting your FC to Shock (we perfer to call it SLAM), level. Thats all you need to worry about until
you are done slamming.

I'm definitely going to run out of reagent, I do have a dpd test from a smaller Taylor kit without fas, can I get by with that until I get my shipment hopefully monday?

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