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Thread: Pops37 - new member

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    Pops37's Avatar
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    Pops37 - new member

    Well howdy y'all!

    I have been lurking in the shadows for 2 yrs and decided it was dang time to become a member. Although it's possible I made a member previously but due to geriatric synapse burn out it may have slipped my mind LOL. So first a BIG thanks to all the "experts" that helped to create and maintain this friendly, safe and informative environment. I have used the pool calculator and goon to "pool school" I have had a pool since 1983, at times it was serviced my yours truly and other times by a paid service. I'll update the signature thing later. So for the past 3 yrs it has been me since I have more time now being retired. So last week the pool (built in 1983) got its first re-plaster (a few years over due) and it looks very nice. Thought I would share a few numbers for the first couple of days and then I'll add an edit or reply as the start-up is completed.
    Also plan to post pictures and hit up the contribution page.

    - Friday plaster job finished with acid wash and started filling, there will be lots of brushing over the next week and pump will run around the clock for 3 days to get rid of all the plaster bushings as it cures.
    - Sat morning pool almost full ran test (Taylor k-2006) FC < .4 CC 3.4 PH >8.0 (all that good city water) TA 120 CH 120 CYA 0 (really new fill)
    -- added a gal of acid and later 1 jug bleach (121 oz) and 1# shock with 52% cal hypo. Went to Leslie's for 2 gal of stabilizer (could not find it at WM) installed per instructions (shake a lot and rinse bottle with pool water to get every drop)
    - Sat after noon H2O test at Leslie's FC 5 CH 100 CYA 30 ) TA 120 PH 7.6
    Back to walmart for some calcium plus (about $7 for 4# bottle) got 4 bottles.... started adding and plan to give it 6 to 12 hrs between bottles with testing along the way.
    - Sat night after sunset FC 4.0
    - Sun morning 7am FC 4.0 woohoo looking good no over night loss.
    - sun morning CH now up to about 140 nice progress noon time FC 1.0 and CC <.5 add another 1# shock with 52% cal hypo nudge the cc and help with the CH and still adding the 4# bottles calcium plus.
    pool is very clear BTW during this entire process. looking good...
    ... to be continued
    Gunite/plaster pool w/spa built 1983, 17,000 gal. (depth 3' x 6' x 3') (37' X 16' +spa, stairs & large in-pool bench seat). Arneson (now Hayward) pool vac (rebuilt 3 or 4 times over 30 years), 350k BTU (nat gas) XE heater (in need of a serious herbal cleansing lol), 2HP Marathon pump & filter basket, DE filter NSS-48, air pump for spa bubbles, one skimmer plus in-line filter Hayward CANISTER W560 to the pool vac. Re-plastered May 2013 reinforced quartz (Marbletite) Diamond Bright. Test kit: Taylor K-2006; Bleach

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    Re: Pops37 - new member

    Welcome aboard TFP Pops

    I just had a new pool built, I had one at my last house as well, wish I'd had TFP then . Anyway is calcium plus the same thing as muriatic acid (in dry form)? I'm using about two gallons (Mur Acid) a week while my new plaster leaches out calcium, so I'm interested as to what roll calcium plus plays in a start-up? Also it might behoove you to have a Pentair 3" puck errosion chlorinator installed.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GjYQYJheaJo
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MzSxNDtUr-0

    I have the 320 model installed on my new pool same as the old pool. They works like a dream some maintenance involve after a few years ... no big deal


    Kirk in Texas
    Pool IG, 20'x30'x5', 15,000 gals, QuartzScapes NPT Tahoe Blue, Sundek Classic Texture, DE Hayward Pro-grid DE7220 , Pentair erosion auto CH, Main PMP Century 1.5hp , Polaris 280, booster PMP Century 3/4hp, Electronics PNL timer/light Pro Logic Model AQL2-SS-RF w/Remote CNTL

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    Re: Pops37 - new member

    Welcome to the forum. With that new plaster, don't be in too big of a hurry to add calcium....the plaster will contribute CH to your water for perhaps the next 30 days or so.

    I think I would just monitor it by testing weekly and, if it stopped rising, then go ahead and add enough to get to 250 ppm.
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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    Re: Pops37 - new member

    Howdy Kirk. nope the acid is to help balance your PH (moves it down) the CA plus is to help raise the calcium level so that the pool water will not leach the plaster. Being a new plaster some of it will come from the walls . If you have not had a chance yet you might enjoy reading all the very good info in the pool school. Good luck and enjoy your new pool. and thanks for the link I'll have a look at them.


    Quote Originally Posted by ktc211
    Welcome aboard TFP Pops

    I just had a new pool built, I had one at my last house as well, wish I'd had TFP then . Anyway is calcium plus the same thing as muriatic acid (in dry form)? I'm using about two gallons (Mur Acid) a week while my new plaster leaches out calcium, so I'm interested as to what roll calcium plus plays in a start-up? Also it might behoove you to have a Pentair 3" puck errosion chlorinator installed.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GjYQYJheaJo
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MzSxNDtUr-0

    I have the 320 model installed on my new pool same as the old pool. They works like a dream some maintenance involve after a few years ... no big deal


    Kirk in Texas
    Gunite/plaster pool w/spa built 1983, 17,000 gal. (depth 3' x 6' x 3') (37' X 16' +spa, stairs & large in-pool bench seat). Arneson (now Hayward) pool vac (rebuilt 3 or 4 times over 30 years), 350k BTU (nat gas) XE heater (in need of a serious herbal cleansing lol), 2HP Marathon pump & filter basket, DE filter NSS-48, air pump for spa bubbles, one skimmer plus in-line filter Hayward CANISTER W560 to the pool vac. Re-plastered May 2013 reinforced quartz (Marbletite) Diamond Bright. Test kit: Taylor K-2006; Bleach

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    Pops37's Avatar
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    Re: Pops37 - new member

    Thanks Dave, you are right and I forgot to ask that very question. so I decided to hold off and measure it often and keep brushing to see if the CH levels off or goes up for next couple weeks. Last test was at about 190 after a total of 12# CA+. was in the pool and it feels good to have it open again. This past winter is the first time in 30 years that I closed the pool.

    Quote Originally Posted by duraleigh
    Welcome to the forum. With that new plaster, don't be in too big of a hurry to add calcium....the plaster will contribute CH to your water for perhaps the next 30 days or so.

    I think I would just monitor it by testing weekly and, if it stopped rising, then go ahead and add enough to get to 250 ppm.
    Gunite/plaster pool w/spa built 1983, 17,000 gal. (depth 3' x 6' x 3') (37' X 16' +spa, stairs & large in-pool bench seat). Arneson (now Hayward) pool vac (rebuilt 3 or 4 times over 30 years), 350k BTU (nat gas) XE heater (in need of a serious herbal cleansing lol), 2HP Marathon pump & filter basket, DE filter NSS-48, air pump for spa bubbles, one skimmer plus in-line filter Hayward CANISTER W560 to the pool vac. Re-plastered May 2013 reinforced quartz (Marbletite) Diamond Bright. Test kit: Taylor K-2006; Bleach

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    Pops37's Avatar
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    Re: Pops37 - new member

    Kirk, thanks I looked at the puck chlorinator link. I do not use tabs (pucks) unless on vacation or special needs. I use bleach (liquid chlorine) I do appreciate the input thanks.

    Quote Originally Posted by ktc211
    Welcome aboard TFP Pops

    I just had a new pool built, I had one at my last house as well, wish I'd had TFP then . Anyway is calcium plus the same thing as muriatic acid (in dry form)? I'm using about two gallons (Mur Acid) a week while my new plaster leaches out calcium, so I'm interested as to what roll calcium plus plays in a start-up? Also it might behoove you to have a Pentair 3" puck errosion chlorinator installed.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GjYQYJheaJo
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MzSxNDtUr-0

    I have the 320 model installed on my new pool same as the old pool. They works like a dream some maintenance involve after a few years ... no big deal


    Kirk in Texas
    Gunite/plaster pool w/spa built 1983, 17,000 gal. (depth 3' x 6' x 3') (37' X 16' +spa, stairs & large in-pool bench seat). Arneson (now Hayward) pool vac (rebuilt 3 or 4 times over 30 years), 350k BTU (nat gas) XE heater (in need of a serious herbal cleansing lol), 2HP Marathon pump & filter basket, DE filter NSS-48, air pump for spa bubbles, one skimmer plus in-line filter Hayward CANISTER W560 to the pool vac. Re-plastered May 2013 reinforced quartz (Marbletite) Diamond Bright. Test kit: Taylor K-2006; Bleach

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    Richard320's Avatar
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    Re: Pops37 - new member

    Welcome Pops!

    Sounds like you've got a good grasp on things.
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
    Troublefree does not mean Maintenancefree. It's like brushing your teeth: You can spend a couple minutes a day and pennies a week or go to the dentist once a year and spend several thousand dollars.
    A pool is like a pet - you have to feed it every day, even the days you don't want to play with it!

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    Re: Pops37 - new member

    Quote Originally Posted by ktc211
    Anyway is calcium plus the same thing as muriatic acid (in dry form)? I'm using about two gallons (Mur Acid) a week while my new plaster leaches out calcium, so I'm interested as to what roll calcium plus plays in a start-up? Also it might behoove you to have a Pentair 3" puck errosion chlorinator installed.
    :
    I have the 320 model installed on my new pool same as the old pool. They works like a dream some maintenance involve after a few years ... no big deal :)
    Calcium is not the same thing as acid. When plaster cures it produces calcium hydroxide (technical details in this post) which increases both Calcium Hardness (CH) and pH. There are different startup procedures as described in the post I just linked to, but unless you are doing a bicarbonate startup, you may be needing to add lots of acid to compensate for the rise in pH. Follow the instructions of your pool builder since there is likely a warranty involved that will be voided if you do not follow their instructions. Ideally, the calcium hydroxide converts to calcium carbonate from the Total Alkalinity (TA), which is mostly bicarbonate, in the water, but again how much this happens depends on the type of startup.

    As for the puck erosion chlorinator, please read the Pool School. For every 10 ppm Free Chlorine (FC) added by Trichlor, it also increases Cyanuric Acid (CYA) by 6 ppm. CYA does not evaporate or get easily destroyed so it builds up over time in most pools using Trichlor (or Dichlor). If you do not proportionately raise the FC level as the CYA level climbs, then algae can grow faster than chlorine can kill it. You can avoid this problem by using chlorinating liquid or bleach as your primary source of chlorine since it does not add anything you do not want in the water, namely Calcium Hardness (CH) from Cal-Hypo or CYA from stabilized chlorine (Trichlor, Dichlor). The puck erosion chlorinator may be useful during vacations for automated dosing, but if you insist on using Trichlor pucks as your regular source of chlorine then you may need to take other additional costly measures to prevent algae growth such as the use of algaecides or phosphate removers.
    16,000 gallon outdoor in-ground 16'x32' plaster pool; Pentair Intelliflo VF pump; Pentair IntelliTouch i9+3s control system; Jandy CL-340 square foot cartridge filter
    12 Fafco solar panels; Purex Triton PowerMax 250 natural gas heater (200,000 BTU/hr output); automatic electric pool safety cover; 4-wheel pressure-side "The Pool Cleaner"

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    Pops37's Avatar
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    Re: Pops37 - new member

    Update on chem progress... this is day 4 overall looking good
    OCLT: zero woohoo
    FC 5 CC <.5 PH 7.6 TA 90 CH 200 CYA 38
    The CH is going up with the plaster curing so is good will keep an eye on it for next 30 days be sure not creep up too high. I also see the PH creep up a little from the new plaster (added 2 qts. acid yesterday) TA went down 10ppm I expect that is result of tweaking the PH from the plaster process. I'll ck again tomorrow. The only item that is a bit off is the FC consumption. Right now it is using about 6ppm / day mostly sunny. I expected it to use about 3 or 4ppm depending on clouds and more if people heavy usage. But right now I am the only one using it with H2O temp at 77F pool is crystal clear.

    [attachment=0:22lvnmyh]DSC04579-2.JPG[/attachment:22lvnmyh]
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Gunite/plaster pool w/spa built 1983, 17,000 gal. (depth 3' x 6' x 3') (37' X 16' +spa, stairs & large in-pool bench seat). Arneson (now Hayward) pool vac (rebuilt 3 or 4 times over 30 years), 350k BTU (nat gas) XE heater (in need of a serious herbal cleansing lol), 2HP Marathon pump & filter basket, DE filter NSS-48, air pump for spa bubbles, one skimmer plus in-line filter Hayward CANISTER W560 to the pool vac. Re-plastered May 2013 reinforced quartz (Marbletite) Diamond Bright. Test kit: Taylor K-2006; Bleach

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