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Thanks--I must just be mistaken on your hills, they just look so much like OC. And yes, I hadn't noticed that in your signature--I think you'll be very glad you're going with Fina over Sheen, especially if you have kids playing in your pool, etc.

Thank you Pat! Your 2nd idea was the correct diagnosis. While I could still turn the impeller with my fingers, there was a ton of leaf debris jammed in there that I was able to remove, which solved the problem. What I still don't understand was how that debris got through or around my pump...

No problems with the flaps in front of the skimmers. Cartridges were replaced a few months ago. This change happened suddenly, not gradually. Pool water is perfect (but will change soon if I don't get it circulating)! Single speed pump...

Yes, all 4 filter cartridges. Pressure gauge has been working properly, and seems to match the amount of water exiting at top of filter when I open that valve. Both poolside skimmers look clear, and flow is the same regardless of how I manually open/close the combination of the two skimmers and...

For some reason, our pool water is barely circulating. The pump is on and running, but pressure is low, and cell cartridges were recently replaced. (So problem seems to be suction?) Valves are in the correct position, and regardless of what 'mode' they are in, water still does not circulate...

Your hills look like where I grew up (where East Orange meets North Tustin)? Don't mean to intrude, but are you sure you want Pebble Tec? We regretted that choice (actually went with Pebble 'Sheen' so it would be 'smoother'), as the aggregate is so abrasive, taking skin right off when one...

Thank you Allen @ajw22. You were right: re-soldering that particular connection has the board operational again. For the future... I think I will eventually need to replace one or more of the 6 plastic 'posts' that clip into the board and hold it to the board mount, and one of the 4 taller...

I will try just re-soldering for now... But what about my fuse question? Should I replace the 20A fuse with a 15A fuse to prevent this from happening in the future? Or is that a misguided idea (I read it somewhere else...)?

Do I have to replace the relay that is connected to the bad joint, or just re-solder the joint?

I'm sorry, I now realize you were talking about the component opposite the failed solder joint... I thought I just needed to re-solder it... Are you saying the relay MUST ALSO be replaced for it to work again? Or that I could try it first just re-soldered?

Could you please elaborate? What and where exactly is the 'relay' you are referring to? I am very inexperienced with working 'under the hood'

If it is, it is VERY VERY slight... Do you still think it needs replacing?

You were right James--one bad solder joint. This is the second board this has happened to (I'm replacing this with my first one repaired). Would you recommend I replace the 20A fuse with a 15A fuse so that the fuse gets blown next time instead? (I read that somewhere as an idea.)

Is it possible that the actual cell is just dead/done? No way to diagnose which it is--the board or cell--without taking them out?

I've never soldered before... Any particular YouTube you could direct me to for this?

I replaced this circuit board with a new one, but seems like it might be repairable for future use? There is just one 'burnt' location... (see photos)

Is there a way to diagnose what is wrong without taking the circuit board out? I have a voltimeter...

So simply evaluating by each of their weight works? I thought it might be more complex in light of the way I've heard 'Tri-Chlor' described as one molecule or something... Thought that it might be more complicated than just comparing weight, utilizing the FC/CYA ratio of the tabs, that maybe the...

With how quickly Tri-Chlor tabs seem to raise CYA levels, is it possible that its more economical to use tabs vs. CYA alone to raise CYA levels? (CYA seems to deplete very quicly from my SWG pool...)

Re: Shelf life o fCYA Reagent Could you be more specific than "several years"? (Dictionary says "more than 2, fewer than many.") I seem to be losing CYA faster than anything, but bought my R-0013 reagent 3 years ago. Is that probably my problem?

Back_Yard, Jason, and Jim, Thank you, that is all helpful information. Now please review the "Filter Comparison" in Pool School and see that it's incomplete/inaccurate/outdated. (DE Filter: "Requires backwashing", etc.) Several points from this string should be in Pool School for novices and...

I beg to differ. If they don't require backwashing, that's a significant difference.

I'm obviously not convincing... :) It just seems to me that this new design is a game changer for DE vs. cartridge filters that isn't addressed where it should be (Pool School).

Thanks Jim, but I still think an update to Pool School is warranted. I've heard/seen from several that they don't require backwashing, which, if true, would make it a relatively easy replacement for a cartridge filter. But this does not seem definitively clear anywhere, nor are any pros and cons...

Trying to understand the pros/cons of a DE "Quad" filter and feel pretty confused after reviewing Pool School and a Forum thread search... Seems they are a cross between a DE filter and a Cartridge Filter, but still confused... Do they require backwashing or not? How does cleaning them compare...

Re: How to know when to replace filter housing? Top of filter "rising" when starting? I've added pump specs to signature--please see below and advise. - - - Updated - - - I've added my pump specs to signature. Please see below and advise. Thank you,

Re: How to know when to replace filter housing? Top of filter "rising" when starting? Pressure showed 20 psi when installed/clean and gets to about 25 psi by the time I clean it. Does that sound about right?

Re: How to know when to replace filter housing? Top of filter "rising" when starting? And here's a short video showing how much it expands/rises: pool filter - YouTube