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Yes, they are going to warranty it. Unfortunately, because of the timing I have 7+ days of an open green pool now.

No I am not. I am calling Pentair this morning to seek some kind of advice. The pump worked fine all season long last year (that was the 2nd season with the pump). What is the drive then? Are you talking about the electric module on top...

@mknauss This? https://www.poolsupplyunlimited.com/pool/pentair-350105s-intellifo-vfd-motor-kit/69317p1

Unfortunatley, despite Amazon saying it was sold by Pentair I don’t think I’m under warranty because I bought it online. I was told this after the fact.

Does anyone know if the electrical motor driver is serviceable? I see they sell the whole motor for like $600 bucks but I’m not sure if that covers it.

Just opened up the pool. Turned on the breaker and my Intelliflo had an ALARM! and displayed 90000052 (low voltage). Thought it could be a power issue but the electrician checked my panel, my sub panel with the single Siemens breaker in it (QF220A), as well as the mains on the pump itself - 221...

But that is silly. You have to realize that. The Siemens breaker doesn't fit all breaker boxes! I mean c'mon...I guess I can go the subpanel route.

Bump! Has anyone tried to use a choke in front of the breaker to reduce harmonics?

The circuit and breaker was installed by a very qualified licensed electrician. The pump was installed by a very qualified pool tech. We are talking 30-40 years experience between both of them. We tried two different new Eaton GFCI breakers. They both trip - and randomly. Again, with a non-GFCI...

So yes, I have Googled this extensively. I have a Cutler & Hammer box which takes Eaton breakers. The pump trips every day at a random time - it does not always correlate with speed change or even weather (I had it stay on during a heavy thunderstorm and go off in the middle of a sunny...

Yeah it seems the easytouch is nice but the timer does the job. I'm definitely going Raypak!

Ah! I wonder if this would indeed be worth it. Do you happen to know if the ET comes with the cables needed to connect to my pump, SWG, and heater?

Actually, because of the heater install and an existing electrical issue (read: not enough circuits, the IC60/pump share a 20A circuit, don't ask) I am doing electric work as well. So if I want to install the ET I can. I just didn't think it was worth it (maybe it is?). Ah, that is good to...

Sorry, the "bingo" was for the timer on the SWG. The pump as you know has a separate timer so they are right now not linked. One advantage of say an EasyTouch (at least from my understanding) would be the elimination of the mechanical timer. Switching back to the heater, I don't want to manage...

Bingo. I ideally would like to turn on the heater when needed and turn it off when well, it's not. I do realize there are systems that turn it on automaticlally when the water gets below a certain temp but that would not be cost effective if no one is actually in the pool (not sure how our...

With my setup, would you recommend it? I assume we are talking mainly about EasyTouch given my hardware. EDIT: It seems a bit overkill no?

What are the benefits of automation?

I guess what I'm asking is how can I get my pentair to work with the heater?

No i do not. I have many neighbors with heaters but no automation. Do I need automation? I assume heaters have timers or I can just turn it off when not in use right?

Just want some general advice: I'm in the market for 400BTU gas heater. I have a barely a year old Pentair variable speed pump and IC60 cell. Is there any reason I could go with say the Raypak 406A? I know NOTHING about Raypak but apparently they make very good heaters.

I feel like such a dope. I don't know HOW I missed that in the manual. Mea culpa. Thank you so much guys! The lights are all green again and my pool looks TFP spectacular. I WISH Pentair's troubleshooting guide mentioned that the CELL light off could mean it is going through its cycle.

That is exactly right! I turned the power off and on and again and what da you know? Solid green. I tested with the Taylor again...18 drops on the dot. Looks good to me. But now I have another issue: The Cell light turns off. If I raise the %, it goes on green again. But then when I set it back...

Yeah, I didn't realize about the two minute wait time. So I wound up putting an extra bag of salt in. But I can't imagine one bag is going to screw the pooch. Also, I notice that the cell light goes off at the lowest setting sometimes (20%) and then if I put it on 40%, it goes green again. Not...

Yeah, definitely not panicking per se, but I do find it odd. Taylor read 3800ppm and then a little lower the second time (but close). I wonder if it is just ambient temperature of the water (it's really cold right now without having a heater, that's next year). I am hoping by this afternoon as...

IC-60 green light is flashing meaning high salt. Taylor kit tested several times says I have between 3600-3800 ppm. IC-60 light is green. Was not flashing yesterday all day but all of sudden this morning, it starts flashing. Current ambient is 56 F. I did read this thread (6 years old though)...

Yes, you do. I wasn't disputing that. In fact, I have raised it to 70-80 and things are looking GREAT! Because I was so paranoid I did two ONFCTs just to make sure! (0.5 drop one night then 0.0 drop the second night).

Makes sense. I guess I am worrying for naught. I am just nervous about having a pool with CYA of 80 etc.

I could probably improve my closing a bit, but due to circumstances I close early and sometimes have to open late. This has led to a green pool every year since I've moved into the house. After 72 hours, I'm good for the rest of the season and have zero algae issues following the TFP...

Every season, my opening starts with a green sess pool that I have SLAM into submission. Given that CYA levels are far above 40 for a properly seasoned SWG TFP, do folks always drain a lot of water on opening if they need to SLAM? I believe the answer is YES but I don't read a lot about it in...

I can't believe I missed this - but yes, the ProTeam that year did perform as promised. I plan to add it again this year. (yeah, I realize this response is really late, but hopefully there are other ProTeam Supreme Plus users out there).