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OK you've convinced me. I think I'll get a little pump.

Well I've had a pool for 9 years, and I've drained every year by about a foot. I've then winterized the pump and removed the SWG unit. By spring the water is always at the top. Any extra just flows away into the surrounding ground. A mid winter draining is not an option unless I reconnect...

Perfect! I’ve ordered those things. This is going to be such a huge time and effort saver. I appreciate it.

In the past I've lowered the water below the returns and skimmers, then used a shop vac to suck the water out of the lines. It's a long and tedious process. Even though I lower the water, by spring, the pool is full up again due to rain and snow. I have acquired a cyclone and was thinking of...

Awesome. I'll put in my order! Thanks!

Funny you should post this - I just posted about buying a new one. My died after about 7 years, only runs in the summer. But the early symptom of trouble was that the lights stopped working right. It kept making chlorine for a while after but I had to keep an eye on it and test more...

Hi there - I need to order a new Intellichlor IC40 - my old one died last summer. I've seen Discount Pool Supplies Online | Pool Equipment & Parts has a good price - I wonder if anyone had any experience with them. Or perhaps could recommend a good store for these things? Thanks folks -...

When I started it up - the low salt flashed for a short while (which it often does as water flows) then it goes off. So it makes sense that the good salt light LED has burned out. I'll check the CL tomorrow. If its producing then I am ok with that.

I‘ve got a 3 or 4 year old IC 40. Cell light is green, flow light is green. My salt is good (about 3600 - tested by me). But neither of the salt lights are on. Very puzzling. I don’t need the thing to tell me how my salt is - I can test it just fine, but I do need it to make chlorine...

I strongly think you should keep FC above 1-2 simply because if you get your SWG settings off a bit, or perhaps its extra sunny, you can easily drop the FC to a too low level. I have mine in the 5-8 range so that I don’t have to check it daily. It’s basically a safety buffer for my laziness.

Bought some at Home Depot Cary NC - 8.25% 121oz $2.99. "HDX Brand"

My pump has to run at more than 2200 rpm. I am pretty sure that I could get away with a lot lower speeds when I first got it. Anyhow - thanks for the input - after a google search I decided to order an new sensor for $50.

My IC 40 gives me a red light indicating that the flow rate is too low. But I am certain that the rate is ok - I’ve run my pump in prior years at lower rates and the IC40 has been fine. When I increase the flow rate to much higher - it works ok. It is just not activating at lower speeds...

I have 18K gals and the IC40 and it keeps up pretty well. The trick really is to not be afraid to push that CYA up quite high, so that the SWG can keep up in the sunniest hot days. As for the other comments: I run my VS pump at the lowest speed that is needed to keep the SWG running. I...

I ended up getting someone to do it. It was expensive, and I think I could have bought the unit online and done it myself. But water, electricity and my lack of knowledge doesn't seem like a good combination. The light was also causing my panel to short out, so I had to run the pool pump...

This morning my pool pump wasn't running. I checked the Pentair EasyTouch Panel and it said "SERVICE". I cut off all the breakers and turned them back on but now the panel breaker won't turn on. Basically the panel has no power. I have had a bad light - and I wondered whether it shorted...

Hmmm. This might be a job that I pay to have done...

How hard was it to replace them? I have one that has water in it. It looks like you can just unscrew them and pop the new one in (after turning off the power). Is this right?

My IC 40 is on all the time - the lights are always on, BUT it only creates CL when there is water flow due to the flow sensor. So when the pump is off, the IC 40 is off (except for a few LEDs).

In addition to the OCLT, run the pump and SWG at 100% overnight - and do an OCLT with the SWG on. As you are not loosing any CL at night, this will give you an estimate of the CL production of the SWG. You can then compare the the manufacturer's specs. I just did this with mine after having...

Update: I removed and cleaned the IC 40 - acid wash and hose pipe. I also upped the CYA a bit. Latest results from running the OCLT last night with the pump on and the swag running is that I gained 3.5 CL. This suggests to me that perhaps there was some debris in the SWG that was inhibiting...

New results: First to recap - I posted this earlier. 6/21/15: OCLT with pump on and SWG on. 10pm FC = 7.5 7:30am FC = 10. Gain of 2.5, less than the 3.8 predicted. 6/22/2015 Pump and SWG 100% ran all day. 7:30am FC = 10. 7:30pm FC = 8.5. Loss of 1.5, despite running 12 hours, 100% Very...

I've had a pool for 3 years, and I've just realized that I should be rinsing after backwashing. I always just backwash. I guess I missed the bit about rinsing. Not sure what damage is done, but I am guessing that my backwashing was less effective as a result.

Correct me if I am wrong, but those numbers don't look right. I don't think you can have FC > TC. FC (Free Chlorine) should be less than or equal to TC (Total Chlorine). CYA is also crazy low. You should get the test kit recommended by everyone here: TFTestkits.net. I'd return the...

Just wanted to follow up on this - I am pretty sure that the pool size is about right. Last year the SWG would do a great job at about 60% for 8 hours a day. So something is different this year. As for gatorbrit - I am a UF grad and a british ex pat. Hopefully not gatorbait! cheers

Ok - thanks. Times like this is I wish I had paid more attention in chemistry class.

Ok. I will run an OCLT tonight with the pump on but the swg off. That should give me a more accurate read on whether there are organically somewhere in the system. I am surprised that salt level doesn't matter. Does this mean that below some level, chlorine production just stops, but...

OK results to report. last night 10pm: TC=7.5, FC=7.5 this morning 7:30 am: TC=10, FC=10 Pump ran non stop for 9.5 hours. I gained 2.5 ppm CL. This is less than the 0.4*9.5 hrs = 3.8 which is what Chem Geek predicted. So either: --- Something is still eating CL (although my OCLT doesn't...

I'm running the system tonight to see how much we generate over night. Will report the numbers tomorrow. Hopefully, deep cleaning the sand filter isn't needed - it looks like a lot of work!!

Wow - thank you! Great explanation. OK - it's almost dark here so I'll do another test and then set it running through the night.