Pentair IC40 question

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I questioned this once before. Our IC40 is 4 years old and we run it year round in S Florida. It was showing low salt a couple of weeks ago so I took a sample to the pool store and the salt level was fine. We tested the flow switch and decided to change it out and now with the new switch, the IC40 shows low salt level on the display as well as the flow button is red. Nothing else is lit up other than my sanitizer level. I tested my water and my chlorine level was 4.0, salt level so it must still be generating chlorine. I am just bothered that all my lights aren't working and I know this thing is close to its end of life. Do we go ahead and just get a new SWG? I assume replacing it with another IC40 is the easiest way. Any other options to look at?
 
How did you test the flow switch?
You say it now has a red light on Flow but is still making chlorine? That is normally not possible.
Raise your flow rate on your pump to see if the red light on Flow goes out.
I assume you do not have automation.
 
Funny you should post this - I just posted about buying a new one. My died after about 7 years, only runs in the summer. But the early symptom of trouble was that the lights stopped working right. It kept making chlorine for a while after but I had to keep an eye on it and test more frequently to make sure. Eventually it quit and I finished the summer with bleach! I think you probably need to plan for a replacement.
 
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mknauss said:
How did you test the flow switch?
You say it now has a red light on Flow but is still making chlorine? That is normally not possible.
Raise your flow rate on your pump to see if the red light on Flow goes out.
I assume you do not have automation.
Click to expand...
The red light stayed on after raising my flow rate. I think you had sent me a link on how to test the flow switch/temp control a few weeks ago when I had a question and it showed it was not working. Yet, we haven't added any chlorine and there is still chlorine in the pool. The pool looks fantastic too.
 
gatorbrit said:
Funny you should post this - I just posted about buying a new one. My died after about 7 years, only runs in the summer. But the early symptom of trouble was that the lights stopped working right. It kept making chlorine for a while after but I had to keep an eye on it and test more frequently to make sure. Eventually it quit and I finished the summer with bleach! I think you probably need to plan for a replacement.
Click to expand...
Yeah something is definitely wonky with this thing. We are new to taking care of our own pool so this has thrown us for a little loop. All should be good, guess we need to just bite the bullet and order a new IC40 too. It has run 4 years all year long so I guess it gave us a good life. Ha.
 
65,

The cell should not work if it has the low flow light on.. It will also never run the salt tests if the flow light is on... Either your new flow switch assembly is bad, or you installed it wrong..

The cell could be bad, but with a 9K pool, even running 365, I would have expected it to last more than 4 years.

How many wires did you old flow switch have? And how many wires did you new flow switch have??

Generally when the cell dies, you get a quickly flashing cell light even though the cell is clean.. It might go off for a few seconds at start up, but will soon start flashing again.

Here is where I bought my last cell.. Pentair IntelliChlor Chlorine Generator IC40 Cell (to 40,000 gallons)

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Jimrahbe said:
65,

The cell should not work if it has the low flow light on.. It will also never run the salt tests if the flow light is on... Either your new flow switch assembly is bad, or you installed it wrong..

The cell could be bad, but with a 9K pool, even running 365, I would have expected it to last more than 4 years.

How many wires did you old flow switch have? And how many wires did you new flow switch have??

Generally when the cell dies, you get a quickly flashing cell light even though the cell is clean.. It might go off for a few seconds at start up, but will soon start flashing again.

Here is where I bought my last cell.. Pentair IntelliChlor Chlorine Generator IC40 Cell (to 40,000 gallons)

Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...
He said 4 wires on each and he wired them up the same. He is a handyman so I doubt he hooked it up wrong but it is possible the new flow switch is bad.
 
65,

I'm pretty handy myself, but that is no guarantee that I can't screw it up... As has been proven a number times right here... :mrgreen:

Just thinking logically.. If you did not have a low flow issue before you changed the flow switch, and now you do, what else could it be???

I'm just trying to say it might make sense to look at it again before spending $800 bucks on a new cell..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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Jimrahbe said:
65,

I'm pretty handy myself, but that is no guarantee that I can't screw it up... As has been proven a number times right here... :mrgreen:

Just thinking logically.. If you did not have a low flow issue before you changed the flow switch, and now you do, what else could it be???

I'm just trying to say it might make sense to look at it again before spending $800 bucks on a new cell..

Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...
He is going to look at it tonight just to be sure! Thanks.
 
I presume this was resolved.

Whenever my flow light is red, my filter needs to be backwashed and rinsed.

If you replaced the switch, it's directional. It has to be installed in the direction of the flow so the switch makes contact. I think there is an arrow on top of the switch so you know how far to turn/tighten it when installed.

If your salt cell goes bad, it will blow fuses left and right and trip breakers. So you'll know when that's bad.
 
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