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Thinking either this or Polaris*9350/9450/9550*models. They seem to have good reviews regarding large debris. Really don't wanna cut/kill a tree for my leisuretime convenience.

Usually it's the internal paddle wheel that gets jammed. Frustrating...

It's not so much the inlet itself, the Navigator will suck the acorn in but then it jams up in the internal paddlewheel. Guess I'll start looking at the internal of some cleaners. Maybe some of the robots don't use the paddlewheel internal design.

Will this thing suck up acorns with no issues?

An oak tree's very life hangs in the balance. Every year it grows farther and farther over the pool and the acorns fall (sometimes with the help of squirrels) into the pool. Hayward Navigator gets clogged pretty quickly. No pressure-side plumbing available and it'll be about $1k to cut tree...

Agree; put a cupro-nickel Raypak 266BTU (P-M266A-EN-X) on our 16x32, 20K gallon pool 2 years ago. No issues, 1" gas line (hard line) from house, Pro-Flex CSST to connect line from pad to hard line sediment trap coming outta gas valve. Replaced a 1998 Purex-Triton MiniMaxx 200K Btu... Little...

Thanks to all, I now understand exactly what is going on and what I need to do. Get an approved J-Box for one, apparently. Wonder how long that has been requirement? This all passed inspection in Lake County Ohio back in 1998 when pool was built. I sure would like to do the whole pool-building...

Almost there...the grounding wire is connected in the niche; it's the other end (that comes thru the niche conduit with the light cord) that I'm wondering what best to connect/ground to. That end used to be pigtailed and run into the outlet box next to it and was connected to the green grounding...

Heck, I dunno...there was a 10AWG wire coming from the light conduit in addition to the black (encasing 3 wires, white, black and green) cord from the pool light. This wire was attached to the internal 'grounding connector' in the niche and encapsulated in potting compound. Perhaps I confuse...

I think the underground power lines to me light have collapsed/been compromised. After heavy rain saturates ground, GFCI trips after a bit when pool light turns on. Yeah, run all the wiring underground to hide...seemed like a good idea 18 years ago...now, not so much. Anyway, just gonna run new...

Excellent...thanks!

Stick the duct tape to liner, use duct tape as a handle of sorts to pull liner upward to pop outta track.

Have a P1353ME timer (with cooldown mode) which I want to use to shut off heater a few minutes before pump shuts down. Question is: Is the wiring of this as simple as it appears? On the P1353ME timer, there is a jumper/loop for the firemans switch connection, and I seem to recall the Raypak...

Velcro for straps to tubes, straps to cover/thru cover with clips....can get all in one package with a solar cover strap 'kit' like

:cheers:

The water keeps the fixture as a whole cool; the bulb is sealed inside the fixture (hence the gasket). The bulb itself does not come in contact with the water

Yeah, looks like a no-go. Pentair says: "Unfortunately, we would not be able to recommend installing our light into a Hayward niche nor can we recommend an adapter to fit an Intellibrite as well, only option we would have in this case is to remove the existing niche and install the proper...

Intermatic 3 circuit timer will do what you want methinks P1353ME http://www.intermatic.com/en/Products/Pool_and_Spa/Electronic_Controls/Electronic_Timer_Mechanisms/P1000ME_Series/P1353ME.aspx.

Current Light: Hayward Astrolite SP0583L50 in a Hayward SP607 Niche. Want to replace w/ an Intellibrite 5g model but it appears that the Intellibrite 5g has an outside ring diameter of 10.12" while current Hayward Light is 10.875" ring diameter. Can't really find specs on niche faceplate...

I've never worried about mine in 18 years, just left it there (as normal) after pool winterized...never a problem.

It's a cost + 5% deal as our company does mucho business with them...and it is a b*tch to get it from shop to home but what's a little exercise every month or so?

Here's a link to process I use to close my pool. Compressor with 1/4 MPT x Quick Connect and Shop Vac. http://kurtfaymon.wordpress.com/2012/09/29/its-that-time-of-year-when-a-young-mans-thoughts/

About $20 for 15 gallon drum at pool supply distributor.

I pondered the same scenario; in the end Stenner won based upon cost. SWG is around $1500 initial cost, + replacement cells every few years, There is also some maint. involved (cleaning cells, possible sensor replacement...) depending on a variety of possible issues/environments. Stenner Pump...

I too finished up this past weekend; $200 Stenner, $190 Intermatic P1353ME timer, $30 6-15P 200V Receptacle, $40 ULine 15g tank, more misc. odds and ends than I can count (Holy ****, is copper wire pricey) Initially thought timer was bad as when first connected it would display time and not...

Looks like Mode 5 is that option; only limitation is Circuit 3 independent of 1/2 so, theoretically, if timer got messed the Stenner could turn on without the main pump being on. Likely never happen unless timer itself goes wonky...providing timer window for 3 is contained within timer window...

Good Point...wonder if there is room in box for a small terminal black? Likely not... Is this an issue for any reason? From what I seem to recall w/ current T104 timer, both heater and pump have L2 wired to always hot terminal...but I could be wrong, happens often!